why ls over gsr? is it the longer stroke the ls has? is there that much of a torque difference? also does the gsr block have to be machined to fit the ls crank? i heard notches have to be made on the bottom of the cylinder walls/sleeves? sorry eluzzionz didn't mean to jack your thread i was thinking about doing this myself. if i ever wanted vtec that bad... lol

 

well i repped as much as i could..ill get the rest of u asap...thanks for the info...and i pretty much was thinking the same thing
i know the lsvtec is built correctly and only has 800 miles..the thing i was pretty upset about after gettin advice from mtber about pistons to use..he said "no srp's they're cheaper for a reason" or something along those lines...so i told the shop who built the motor any piston EXCEPT SRP's...well..what do you know..they used srp's(thanks guys) anyway...more then likely ill sell the whole lsvtec swap and buy the turbo kit and do about 10psi on the gsr(if i can get it) and be happy with whatever mtber can pull out of it tuned..i still have a p72 ecu and walbro 255 fuel pump and 550cc injectors so that should be good..ill just need the conversion harness(sell my obd0-1 and get obd2a/b-obd1) and get this thing installed by someone thats a lot better then myself...also if mtber or kj or someone with experience..

what kind of whp you think a stock gsr 10lbs with 2.5in dp compared to 3in dp...(main reason i wanna keep a/c and im not positive if thats the problem or if its just the manifold..thanks for all the help on my questions)

 

Yes the 2mm of extra stroke are worth it, that is if you have to buy a crank. If you already have a gsr crank then use that. My personal motor is running a itr crank. I used that crank because I got it for free and it was mint. LS cranks fit gsr blocks perfectly with ls rods. The oil squirters come real close to the crank and may hit depending on the crank forging. The squirter nuts can be machined down to clear or removed entirely, (I always remove the squirters on forged piston builds).

If I build a race motor for my car (and run slicks) I might try a 92mm aftermarket crank with a 84mm bore. If the next bottom end I build is strictly for street tire racing I'll run a b17 crank and custom rods with a 84 or 85mm bore.

 

As for the downpipe you really can fit a 3" with alot of the a/c manifolds on the market. Take a look at my build thread, the manifold I used left alot of room for a 3".

 

thanks for the great advice...and i wont rep 1) i cant 2) you think its stupid hehe

one last thing...would it be smarter to a) buy an entire turbo kit a/c compatible for the teg..or b) have a custom turbo set up done..ie piecing a turbo kit together or c) taking it to like LHT and having them do it..i think a would be smarter since its brand new never been used/abused and everything is made for the car...also i dont wanna spend 600+ on hondata etc for them to tune it..id rather take it to vega with ectune or something

 

Don't ever buy a used turbo unless itis from a good friend. I've seen so many people buy used turbos that are "mint" and they are fucked from the get go.
There are some good affordable a/c compatible turbo kits. Peakboost, AFI, and if you got the cash full-race. There are some others like the Treadstone kit that are real cheap and have decent components but not top of the line. LHT's stuff is real nice and the install is top notch, I don't know how much they charge these days so my advice wold be if you can install your own kit with confidence then buy a complete kit like AFI, if you can't do the install contact LHT about their kit. Both John Vega and LHT John are very competent tuners so you will be in good hands either way.

 

I just wanted to bump this up this thread has a lot of good info in it! g/l on the build eluzzionz! my 2cents: keep gsr and boost it. it will have plenty to play with then in the future if you NEED to build it then go ahead!

 

thanks man..ill get in touch with him and see what he thinks..appreciate all the help