I'm not sure if it's timed perfectly though, since it was my first time doing something like this to my car I never messed with timing before so when I was putting it back together I was getting it as close as I possibly can....But when I was trying to get the timing belt on I had trouble getting it on without moving the crankshaft pulley and I think I may be off by one or two teeth. I can't do a valve clearance if it's not timed perfectly right?

O and gangstafootball, That'd be great and all....if I was in the Tampa area...I'm about 2 and a half hours away but thanks for the offer though.

 

its either on or not, there really isn't as close as you can get it. I wouldn't bother with the vavle adjustment until you get your cam timing fixed first. If you have trouble getting the belt on just give your tensioner more slack get the belt on and then get the belt tension were you need it. Then rotate the motor serveral times c.clockwise. and double check your timing marks.

 

+1123127981792837

you have to be 100% positive its timed right before you start valve adjustments.

rotating the engine VERY GENTLY is not a bad idea, long as you can regonize if/when valves hit pistons, and can stop spinning it and spin it back without hurting anything.

the tensioner is kinda tricky, it will go from dead slack to overly tight in a matter of teeth (Honda spec is to rotate it 4 times CCW, back to TDC, then loosen the tensioner, then turn it CCW 3 TEETH!!!!, and tighten the tensioner.)

i just dont want you to fuck anything up, bending valves, while not easy, is also not that hard to do...

g/l bro!

 

Alright, thanks a lot for the help guys, I might try this tomorrow if I have the time. Rep given!

Edit - Heh, I just noticed I already gave you guys rep from the other thread so I can't do it again now.

 

Make sure the white TDC mark on your crank pulley is lined up with the pointer on the timing belt cover. This is #1 TDC. The hash marks on the cam gears should also be lined up to each other...
If their not lined up,the timing is off.
Also about the tensioner. When you loosen the 14mm bolt,push down on the tensioner pulley so that its at its max "loose" position.While its in this "max loose" position, gently snug the bolt. This makes it easier to put the belt on IMO. Once the belt is in position,loosen the tensioner bolt and you should be good to go...Triple check the cam timing by rotating the engine a few times and checking all the timing marks. These must be correct for the engine to run properly!
Hope this makes sense!

 

1) sorry about that blabbering incoherently last night, the tequila got to me

2) nik is def right about intsalling the belt while the tensioner is locked all the way loose, thats the easiest way to do it.

3) i disagree with just letting the belt loose at TDC, however, becuase i did that when I last timed my engine, and as i was spinning it to check valve/piston clearance, and timing, the belt popped off the intake cam and skipped some teeth. i had to pull the tensioner up @ TDC, snug it, then rotate it a few times and do the honda-spin-it-3-teeth-past-TDC method to get it snug all the way around.

but hey, do whatever works. i just dont want you to skip teeth and screw up your motor.

 

Sorry, I should have been more clear. Dont rotate the engine with the tensioner BOLT loose or you will skip teeth like tim said. Install the belt with the tensioner in the loose position, then loosen the bolt so the tensioner snaps tight and RETIGHTEN the bolt...
Then rotate the engine and check everything...

 

Hey thanks guys, everything worked out perfect, timing is perfect now and the car runs great....just one little wierd thing. It seems that when it's cold it starts up a little rough and I have to hold the gas for a little and once it warms up for a minute or so it's perfectly fine and the car runs beautiful...what could this be?

 

???

 

Anyone have an idea?