What does this mean? *pics*
HOLY FREAKIN TORQUE, batman!
so, of the 15 or so motors ive built, or had a hand in building, ive always timed the distributor by putting the 'feet' in the middle of their range of movement, cuz thats how ive always seen em. same is true for this motor...
tonite, i busted out my dad's old circa-1960 sears timing light, and using the red mark between the two black marks on the crank pulley, timed the dizzy like that, which puts it about 3/4 of the movement, on the advanced side (i can get a pic if thats confusing). drove it, and it pulls like a fiend, much stronger than ever before, idles better, not perfect, but it doesnt stall and doesnt SEEM to bog under acceleration...
is this method of timing correct? the red mark is supposed to be at the guide line on the belt cover when the light blinks?
going on what Jake said, however, ive got 15 miles or so on it, and i keep checking #4 (the low one on compression) and i still get around 150 most of the time, so i still have low compression...
i have an apt. with acura for fri morning, so, if nothing else, they can leakdown and find out why my numbers are so low.
thanks again for all the help guys, REP GIVEN TO ALL!
*EDIT*
exceeded my rep limit, ill get the rest tomorrow...
so, of the 15 or so motors ive built, or had a hand in building, ive always timed the distributor by putting the 'feet' in the middle of their range of movement, cuz thats how ive always seen em. same is true for this motor...
tonite, i busted out my dad's old circa-1960 sears timing light, and using the red mark between the two black marks on the crank pulley, timed the dizzy like that, which puts it about 3/4 of the movement, on the advanced side (i can get a pic if thats confusing). drove it, and it pulls like a fiend, much stronger than ever before, idles better, not perfect, but it doesnt stall and doesnt SEEM to bog under acceleration...
is this method of timing correct? the red mark is supposed to be at the guide line on the belt cover when the light blinks?
going on what Jake said, however, ive got 15 miles or so on it, and i keep checking #4 (the low one on compression) and i still get around 150 most of the time, so i still have low compression...
i have an apt. with acura for fri morning, so, if nothing else, they can leakdown and find out why my numbers are so low.
thanks again for all the help guys, REP GIVEN TO ALL!
*EDIT*
exceeded my rep limit, ill get the rest tomorrow...
__________________

University of Florida Gators - '06 NCAA Basketball & Football - '07 NCAA Basketball
University of Florida Gators - '06 NCAA Basketball & Football - '07 NCAA Basketball
Last edited by skunk2racing97; Dec 20, 2006 at 05:57 PM.
HOLY FREAKIN TORQUE, batman!
so, of the 15 or so motors ive built, or had a hand in building, ive always timed the distributor by putting the 'feet' in the middle of their range of movement, cuz thats how ive always seen em. same is true for this motor...
tonite, i busted out my dad's old circa-1960 sears timing light, and using the red mark between the two black marks on the crank pulley, timed the dizzy like that, which puts it about 3/4 of the movement, on the advanced side (i can get a pic if thats confusing). drove it, and it pulls like a fiend, much stronger than ever before, idles better, not perfect, but it doesnt stall and doesnt SEEM to bog under acceleration...
is this method of timing correct? the red mark is supposed to be at the guide line on the belt cover when the light blinks?
going on what Jake said, however, ive got 15 miles or so on it, and i keep checking #4 (the low one on compression) and i still get around 150 most of the time, so i still have low compression...
i have an apt. with acura for fri morning, so, if nothing else, they can leakdown and find out why my numbers are so low.
thanks again for all the help guys, REP GIVEN TO ALL!
*EDIT*
exceeded my rep limit, ill get the rest tomorrow...
so, of the 15 or so motors ive built, or had a hand in building, ive always timed the distributor by putting the 'feet' in the middle of their range of movement, cuz thats how ive always seen em. same is true for this motor...
tonite, i busted out my dad's old circa-1960 sears timing light, and using the red mark between the two black marks on the crank pulley, timed the dizzy like that, which puts it about 3/4 of the movement, on the advanced side (i can get a pic if thats confusing). drove it, and it pulls like a fiend, much stronger than ever before, idles better, not perfect, but it doesnt stall and doesnt SEEM to bog under acceleration...
is this method of timing correct? the red mark is supposed to be at the guide line on the belt cover when the light blinks?
going on what Jake said, however, ive got 15 miles or so on it, and i keep checking #4 (the low one on compression) and i still get around 150 most of the time, so i still have low compression...
i have an apt. with acura for fri morning, so, if nothing else, they can leakdown and find out why my numbers are so low.
thanks again for all the help guys, REP GIVEN TO ALL!
*EDIT*
exceeded my rep limit, ill get the rest tomorrow...
As for the low compression,How is your valve clearance?
__________________
Now residing in Atlanta.....
If you got the red hash mark exactly at the pointer on the timing belt cover with the light blinking, you are @ 16 degrees advance which is right where you wanna be. The black hash marks on either side of the red is the +/- 2 degrees allowance.
As for the low compression,How is your valve clearance?
As for the low compression,How is your valve clearance?
thats how i was doing the timing, so i guess that part is right.
as for the valves, i checked em all, and nothing is being held open, so i know the numbers arent low cuz of too-tight of a rocker, and if they're too loose, then it wont hurt anything for the time being...
thanks again.
__________________

University of Florida Gators - '06 NCAA Basketball & Football - '07 NCAA Basketball
University of Florida Gators - '06 NCAA Basketball & Football - '07 NCAA Basketball
Keep in mind i the valve lash is loose, the valve wont open as much AND wont stay open as long as a tight one causing inconsistent readings...
LMK if you want to bring it by, Im taking a break from house work!
-Nik
LMK if you want to bring it by, Im taking a break from house work!
-Nik
__________________
Now residing in Atlanta.....
*going to clearance some valves*
thanks nik!
__________________

University of Florida Gators - '06 NCAA Basketball & Football - '07 NCAA Basketball
University of Florida Gators - '06 NCAA Basketball & Football - '07 NCAA Basketball
according to Helms and Haynes, valves are too be clearanced with 0.003-0.005 in on the Intake, and 0.006-0.008 in on the Exhaust.
has anyone ever left them this loose? them shits are wobbly as hell, they click just from rocking side to side!
anyway, i made em tighter than that, but a LOT looser than they were... some still had contact at TDC, so that had at least something to do with it.
compression in #4 (the low one) was at 178 cold, so im making improvements, but im gonna drive it for a while, and check it again when the car is warm, as per Helms spec.
thanks again for everyones help!
has anyone ever left them this loose? them shits are wobbly as hell, they click just from rocking side to side!
anyway, i made em tighter than that, but a LOT looser than they were... some still had contact at TDC, so that had at least something to do with it.
compression in #4 (the low one) was at 178 cold, so im making improvements, but im gonna drive it for a while, and check it again when the car is warm, as per Helms spec.
thanks again for everyones help!
__________________

University of Florida Gators - '06 NCAA Basketball & Football - '07 NCAA Basketball
University of Florida Gators - '06 NCAA Basketball & Football - '07 NCAA Basketball


