------->knock in under 2500 rpm????
^^ Setting camgears on the street without a dyno is not the best idea, now if you know your cams have overlap, or your head/block has been milled/shaved or decked then dialing out that overlap with a small adjustment would be ok. Or if the cams came with install instructions and gave you a chart as to the correct base setting then thats ok(sometimes). But in most situations setting cam degree is a dyno needed procedure.. as you wont be able to see if the adjustments are benifiting you or not.I would throw a timing light on the sucker as it sits and see were your timing is, you just might find out that that tuner forgot that for each 1 degree of intake cam timing you add/subtract 2 degrees of ignition timing. so in your situation you would be sitting at about +24 degrees at idle if he didn't set the gears up right and re-adjusted your dizzy after.. (+4 on the intake gear adds 8 degrees of timing) If you notice a high timing setting do like Mtber said and set everything back at 0.. And go from there. BTW $75 for a street tune WOWOWOW talk about CHEAP!!!... when selecting a tuner cheap doesnt get you good work(well at that price) there are a ass load of people around these days that own a laptop and claime to be tuners. ask around and look in the tuner sticky, as the list in there has a good choice of reputable EFI Tuners.. but be warned, it will cost you more than $75 for a real(correct) Street or Dyno tune
G/L and let us know if we can help....................
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AEM/HONDATA/MOTEC/FAST/DEFI & More
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yes, both the intake cam and exhaust cam are still set to plus 4 on the cams. timing light at idle shows 16 degrees at the crank. i am peicing together the turbo setup for this motor so thats why they are on there. and the guy charged me for the programming and install of the s200 but it said 75 for street tune, so i think it was a total price of 388 dollars but he marked the tune as 75 to seam cheaper( like people on ebay sell an item for 1 cent but shipping is 88 dollars). i know it wasn't the best tune but i am planning on going to see john vega after i install the turbo setup, so this was supposed to be a simple tune to hold me over. if i loosen the bolts on the gear, is the belt gonna snap one way or another from tension? does the belt need to be removed for this process? i sure hope not, just for the fact that its 100000 dgrees outside and my garage is full of rx7s and rx7 parts so i cant pull it in. the block on this motor was bored and honed to 81.5 with arias pistons and the head was decked ten thousandths and a golden eagle block guard was installed, along with type r gridle/main caps, and micropolished crank with valve job. and its mated to a CTR tranny with LSD. this is going to be a sweet setup once i get the 60-1 put on and tuned! johns gonna have some fun with this on the dyno at z fever.
Last edited by B20.eg; Aug 5, 2006 at 10:34 AM.
i set the motor to the little white mark on the crank and put the cams back to 0. the car started right up and didn't give me any cel, but i was getting ready to go eat with my wife so i havn't had a chance to drive it yet and see if its all better. i will post when i know whats up.
Set the cams @ 0 . +4 on both cams isn't doing anything but hurting the motor . If anything you should be retarding the exhuast cam not advancing it ..
Step 1 get some real injectors , no 330 shit , Precision 880cc are 255 shipped on EBay from Fl I got mine in 2 days and onyl paid 265 shipped for 1000cc ..
Step 2 . Get a real tune . The term you get what you pay for comes into play here big time . There's a reason that tune was only 75 $'s , Because it sucks ass ..
Step 3 . Fix those damn cam gears
This should solve your issues seeing that the motor was built correctly and you have no other prevelant issues
Step 1 get some real injectors , no 330 shit , Precision 880cc are 255 shipped on EBay from Fl I got mine in 2 days and onyl paid 265 shipped for 1000cc ..
Step 2 . Get a real tune . The term you get what you pay for comes into play here big time . There's a reason that tune was only 75 $'s , Because it sucks ass ..
Step 3 . Fix those damn cam gears
This should solve your issues seeing that the motor was built correctly and you have no other prevelant issues
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Hondata saves lives
S300 and K-Pro tuning 813-433-3721
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R.I.P. Kevin "Slo-Si" Gonzalez
Hondata saves lives
S300 and K-Pro tuning 813-433-3721
Crome OBD1 Editing/Chipped ECU's/Wiring/Track Setup

Prayoonto/DSS/Precision/TiAl/JE/Eagle/PPG/Supertech Equipped
i agree on the whole tune and injectors thing, those 330s came with the motor when i bought it to build it up. i am planning on running RC 550s and john vega is my selcted hondata tuner. i will see if my handy work did the job tonight, i set both cam gears at 0. and the engine is reading 16 degrees at idle.
i agree on the whole tune and injectors thing, those 330s came with the motor when i bought it to build it up. i am planning on running RC 550s and john vega is my selcted hondata tuner. i will see if my handy work did the job tonight, i set both cam gears at 0. and the engine is reading 16 degrees at idle.
glad to hear you got it adjusted, when you get your new injectors lmk how much you want for the 330's...those are the ones i need for my setup...
OK! PROBLEM TOTALLY SOLVED! it was pre-ignition from the timing being so far advanced. i set both gears to 0, and it runs like down f-ing town! the exhaust also got a little louder when coming down from a rev, if that makes any sense. now i can actully press the throttle more than 1/4 way down!! yippee. now i'm ready for the turbo setup, and i'm gonna track down that rascal john vega and have him hook me up on the dyno! no more ghetto-ass tuners. weel, thanks for all the help guys, hopefully this thread can, in turn, help someone else out in the future.




