Knocking sound...did search but not 100% sure
Hey I know i know, i did a search, I have a 97 LX (Y7) with 140,000 miles on it. When I start my car in the morning (cold start) I have knocking sound only when in gear driving...and the knocking follows through the rpm's. In about 2 minutes...not even... when the engine warms, the knocking goes away. Is it due to low oil pressure? If so what parts to I need to replace?
I also have a wierd rapid rattling noise when driving through 3rd gear into 4th though at about 3-4,000 rpm's...sounds like something is loose to me.......it's definatly comming from the engine. ANY info on any of this is VERY much appriciated. Thanks in advance,
-Chad
I also have a wierd rapid rattling noise when driving through 3rd gear into 4th though at about 3-4,000 rpm's...sounds like something is loose to me.......it's definatly comming from the engine. ANY info on any of this is VERY much appriciated. Thanks in advance,
-Chad
Could be anything, simply let the motor cool down & start it up with the hood popped & try to track the source down...
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Originally Posted by 97silverferio
It only makes the noise when I'm accelerating...I could have someone squat in the engine bay while i drive to track the noise down. lol

could be a spun bearing ... is it a deep sound?
could be a rod knock
is it a chattering?
be careful when listening because if something lets loose it could decide to pay a visit to you
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I see people out there spending money on the car to improve it … If you spend half that effort just working on your driving skills, making you and the car work together as a team, then you’ll go faster – period. To make the car go a second faster on the track takes a lot more energy and money than making yourself drive it one second faster.
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Is it only when the car is in gear? When the main bearing went in my tranny it was doing similar things.
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KNOCK KNOCK! Whos there? ROD KNOCK!
My d15 is doing the same thing right now, but ive alreadfy got a replacement motor. But you def either have a spun bearing or a rod knock. Good luck!
My d15 is doing the same thing right now, but ive alreadfy got a replacement motor. But you def either have a spun bearing or a rod knock. Good luck!
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Hey,
I posted the same thing last week and I got all the same answers, but this is what I found out...I removed the heat shield on the exhaust manifold and saw the biggest crack I've ever seen. I researched it a bit on d-series.org and it seems like this is a common problem with the d16's. I'm waiting for a new header to come it, but I had to do some experimenting to be sure. I mixed up a batch of JB weld and filled the crack the best I could (atleast what I could see) Sound went away, well, until the JB melted off and left the smell of some bad poonaner. Anywho, It's just something else to check for.
I posted the same thing last week and I got all the same answers, but this is what I found out...I removed the heat shield on the exhaust manifold and saw the biggest crack I've ever seen. I researched it a bit on d-series.org and it seems like this is a common problem with the d16's. I'm waiting for a new header to come it, but I had to do some experimenting to be sure. I mixed up a batch of JB weld and filled the crack the best I could (atleast what I could see) Sound went away, well, until the JB melted off and left the smell of some bad poonaner. Anywho, It's just something else to check for.
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AIM: xdanielson2881x
98 GTP
87 "LeMonster!" aka "Lemon Drop"
AIM: xdanielson2881x
98 GTP
87 "LeMonster!" aka "Lemon Drop"
I was just bout to post the same thing but mine also does it when rolling but not in gear but also giving it gas to hear it. I was just gonna ask wat should I do to figure out if its a spun bearing or a rod knock dis is my first time problem like dis. I thought it was a cv axle cuz mine makes almost that same sound as an axle goin bad but it does when I'm roilling, driving, accelrating, even turning, anything between 1500-2500 rpms n it has to be hot. thanx fo info.
Holy Shit! I did'nt know this would get so much attention. Well this is what I found out. A certified mechanic at the dealership told me it's most likely worn rods, due to wear and tear...which make sence since i have 140,000 miles on it today. He says it's from a lack of lubercant (Oil) on the top of the head from sitting there for a long while... like a cold start. It can be fixed of course but what most people do is just get an oil additive for high mile cars. I went to wal-mart and picked up this stuff in a silver aluminum can called Engine Restore..something....you can't miss it its silver red and blue, they make it for 4 bangers and v-6's. It's been around forever and always hear good things about it. You just add it to you crank where your oil goes. It was like $5 for the can. My car stopped knocking too, and seems like it's running stronger. AH HA found some thing...read this its right from the site...
“ENGINE RESTORER” IS NOT AN OIL ADDITIVE
According to the company each can of Engine Restorer contains billions of CSL micro-particles in suspension in a neutral motor oil of high quality. Each CSL micro-particle contains Lead (40%) dispersed uniformly throughout a Copper (60%) matrix with Silver.
Engine Restorer is added to the motor oil but it is not an oil additive. An oil additive, by definition, is a product which is added to automotive oil in the crankcase with the intended purpose of modifying the oil characteristics such as viscosity, detergency, or foaming. Engine Restorer is not an oil additive in this sense. It is rather an engine additive because it acts on the engine itself playing a double role. The CSL particles fill scratches, grooves and other worn out areas between the piston and the cylinder wall in the engine. The CSL particles provide maximum natural lubrication due to their percentage of lead, even under very high temperature.
The action of RESTORE reduces friction and rebuilds metal surfaces, which restores lost power and reduces oil & fuel consumption. It works effectively wherever friction and wear cut scratches in metal surfaces, such as cylinder walls, crankshafts and bearings.
Link to the page: http://www.atvconnection.com/atvconn...e-Restorer.cfm
As for the rattling loose sounding noise he says it's very likely the heat shield loose or below that to the exhaust manifold. He told me it's common they they get loose over the years and nothing to worry about.
I hope this helps....try that stuff I bought and go from there. GOOD LUCK!
“ENGINE RESTORER” IS NOT AN OIL ADDITIVE
According to the company each can of Engine Restorer contains billions of CSL micro-particles in suspension in a neutral motor oil of high quality. Each CSL micro-particle contains Lead (40%) dispersed uniformly throughout a Copper (60%) matrix with Silver.
Engine Restorer is added to the motor oil but it is not an oil additive. An oil additive, by definition, is a product which is added to automotive oil in the crankcase with the intended purpose of modifying the oil characteristics such as viscosity, detergency, or foaming. Engine Restorer is not an oil additive in this sense. It is rather an engine additive because it acts on the engine itself playing a double role. The CSL particles fill scratches, grooves and other worn out areas between the piston and the cylinder wall in the engine. The CSL particles provide maximum natural lubrication due to their percentage of lead, even under very high temperature.
The action of RESTORE reduces friction and rebuilds metal surfaces, which restores lost power and reduces oil & fuel consumption. It works effectively wherever friction and wear cut scratches in metal surfaces, such as cylinder walls, crankshafts and bearings.
Link to the page: http://www.atvconnection.com/atvconn...e-Restorer.cfm
As for the rattling loose sounding noise he says it's very likely the heat shield loose or below that to the exhaust manifold. He told me it's common they they get loose over the years and nothing to worry about.
I hope this helps....try that stuff I bought and go from there. GOOD LUCK!



