Got tuned by John Vega this weekend @ Race Related.

GREAT JOB BTW. Car is wonderful - lets just get that out of the way. It is soooooooo smooth and very quick but I'm sort of perplexed with the dyno results. I came up very short for what I have done to this motor:

Here are the specs:
b18c5 USDM bottom end.
b16a cylinder head - ported/polished, 3 angle valve job, milled 30/1000th's, dimpled.

skunk2 intake manifold port matched to head
TODA spec B cams
TODA valve springs
TODA cam gears
KMS titanium retainers

DC Sports 4-1 header
2.5" magnaflow high flow cat
2.5" greddy evo catback exhaust

Walbro 255 lph fuel pump.
525cc injectors
B&M style FPR.

Something is wrong. The car only put down 176 whp and 127 ft torque.

I did not have lower timing belt cover so John thinks that the timing might not be right so I'll put it back on and go back but does anyone have any other ideas in case?

 

yeah i would think with that set up you should be closer to 200whp, was this a conservative tune? was everything in good condition before you dynoed?

 

As far as I know. I just rebuilt it and it sat in the parking lot.

 

Run a leakdown and make sure everythng is seated as in the rings and the valves. With the head milled .030 did you clay check valve to piston for your exhaust valves. Might have a slightly bent exhaust valve. What cam gear settings are you at.

 

Ran compression check and did not see loss of pressure on gauge

Came up as: 230/220/220/220 - does this seem low to anyone else?

I did not clay check valve to piston but when putting on timing belt I was VERY cautious to crank by hand over and over to ensure that nothing was hitting. Should I take the head back off and inspect for bent valve? I think it's sealing fine as there was no pressure loss on compression test.

 

Well if vtec wasn't mechanically engaged you aren't going to know if the valve to piston is good. Also you should measure these kinds of things to give yourself a factor of safety becasue just because they clear with you spinning the motor by hand doesn't mean they will be good a 9k rpm's when the rod stretches some and when the cams become slightly de-timed due to belt stretch ect... I usually shoot for .040" piston to valve on the exhaust side. Gone down to .030" on occasion and never had problems. Intake valves usually have plenty of clearance with most big cams and as much as +5 degrees or so as long as valve size is stock. Exhaust valves with big cams like todaa b's or jun3's usually start coming real close at around -2 or -3 degrees. AS your motor sits at .030" off the head your cams are both at about -2.5 degrees to begin with so if they are not right nopw I'd move the cams to +2 or +3 to put you alot closer to tru zero than you are with the cam gears actually zeroed out. Also you have to pay attention to the degrees of seperation from cam to cam to avoid valve to valve issues but I don't think b's have enough duration to worry about this too much. Try staying within four degrees of seperation and you should have no problem at all. Good luck.

Oh and your comp numbers look ok, I'd expect to see about 250 or 260 but every gauge reads different. I'd suggest a leakdown test to be sure.

 

true story...

 

Did you touch the cam gears at all?

I just tuned a stock block/head GSR with skunk2 manifold, ITR cams, crushed DC 4-1 header and short ram intake on S300 and it made 174/135.

 

I really doubt it's a bent valve jason, remember when the teggy bent one? TICK TICK TICK TICK TICK TICK.... idk maybe "slightly" bent but i doubt it... How did the A/F look?

 

a/f was pretty straight bro