vafc
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vafc
I need to know where on the VAFC do I adjust the A/F when I am at idle. My A/F gauge stays peged out on rich until I get moving and there is no fluctuating at all. I asked this on H-T and really go no response. Thanks if you can help.
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Originally Posted by CBURKE
I need to know where on the VAFC do I adjust the A/F when I am at idle. My A/F gauge stays peged out on rich until I get moving and there is no fluctuating at all. I asked this on H-T and really go no response. Thanks if you can help.
You must use a wideband oxygen sensor to determin true a/f ratio.
Without a wideband you are just guessing.
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Authorized Dealer & Tuner for: Hondata, eCtune, Neptune, AEM, Crome, Precision Turbo, Omni Power, Walbro, Innovate & more. Dyno Tuning Services, Ecu Chipping, Chipped Ecus, Conversion Harnesses, Widebands, Fuel Injectors, Fuel Pumps, Map Sensors & more.
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A/F gauges are just for show unless you have a good one. Waste of money.
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I see, so they have no use at all? I understand the wide band is the way to go, but even if my Autometer A/F gauge does not give good readings it should still fluctuat and give me something instead of just sitting on the last green every time I stop. I am at 40psi and I just think it has somthing to do with the VAFC. I wish I could just take it off, but I have know idea what the Hondata/Spoon ECU will do.
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They are correct for the most part, you see a narrowband AF guage works on 1v while the wideband works on .1v. What does this mean to you, you ask? Well, the narrowband can only give you 1/10th of the reading that a wideband can. So it's very hit or miss. Also, if your not in closed loop. (Wide open throttle) your o2 sensor is pretty much useless, and will not show a proper reading anyway - This is why most guages, at idle, shows a sweeping motion.
The fact that you're showing straight green can mean a few things. Your running extremely rich at idle, so pull some fuel out. Your O2 could be bad. You don't know what the hell you're doing.
Im going to go with a combonation of the 1st and 3rd item I've posted. Step 1. remove VAFC from equation. Step 2. Replace O2 sensor. Step 3. Call MTBER to have him get you a chipped ECU and tune your car for a nominal fee.
Your life will be much easier from here on out. Good luck to you.
The fact that you're showing straight green can mean a few things. Your running extremely rich at idle, so pull some fuel out. Your O2 could be bad. You don't know what the hell you're doing.
Im going to go with a combonation of the 1st and 3rd item I've posted. Step 1. remove VAFC from equation. Step 2. Replace O2 sensor. Step 3. Call MTBER to have him get you a chipped ECU and tune your car for a nominal fee.
Your life will be much easier from here on out. Good luck to you.
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I just got a new O2 just for the reason I thought it was bad. I really don't know what I am doing as far as the VAFC but if I just have MTBER do it then what did I learn? I am going to have him to my work when I get the turbo and make sure all the bugs are out. So on that note how do I "pull some fuel out"? I just need to no what setting on the VAFC controls this? It can’t be the wid that is for wide open thr, and the narr is for normal driving. O well, hell I don't know.
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Originally Posted by Cronic
They are correct for the most part, you see a narrowband AF guage works on 1v while the wideband works on .1v.
The fact that you're showing straight green can mean a few things. Your O2 could be bad. You don't know what the hell you're doing.
The fact that you're showing straight green can mean a few things. Your O2 could be bad. You don't know what the hell you're doing.
If your A/F is above this range, the voltage sweep approaches 0V and thus your gauge reads lean. 15.5: or 20:1 A/F....it's going to read the same thing on your gauge.
The reason why those gauges sweep is because the A/F is bouncing out of the range of approx. 13.75:1 to 15.25:1 A/F. If it stayed in this range, it would not sweep like they do.
If you have no check engine light for your O2 sensor, don't replace it.
/End of break, back to helicopters.
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Originally Posted by 60-1EK
Narrowband O2 sensors sweep 0-1V. Most WB O2 sensors have a 0-5V sweep. Widebands can interpret on a .1V through the 0-5V range. This is where the precision of the WB comes in. The standard narrowband O2 sensor is calibrated to sweep 0-1V from A/F ranges of approx. 13.75:1 to 15.25:1 A/F. If the A/F is below this range, the voltage sweep approaches 1V and thus your gauge reads rich. Your car could be at 13:1, which still sucks for a normal car's A/F at idle, but it isn't the end of the world. But in the same token, your car could be at 10:1 A/F and it too would show rich on your gauge.
If your A/F is above this range, the voltage sweep approaches 0V and thus your gauge reads lean. 15.5: or 20:1 A/F....it's going to read the same thing on your gauge.
The reason why those gauges sweep is because the A/F is bouncing out of the range of approx. 13.75:1 to 15.25:1 A/F. If it stayed in this range, it would not sweep like they do.
If you have no check engine light for your O2 sensor, don't replace it.
/End of break, back to helicopters.
If your A/F is above this range, the voltage sweep approaches 0V and thus your gauge reads lean. 15.5: or 20:1 A/F....it's going to read the same thing on your gauge.
The reason why those gauges sweep is because the A/F is bouncing out of the range of approx. 13.75:1 to 15.25:1 A/F. If it stayed in this range, it would not sweep like they do.
If you have no check engine light for your O2 sensor, don't replace it.
/End of break, back to helicopters.
