honda civic tranny question
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It's been a while, and this is from memory. Everyone feel free to correct, or add things I missed.
You'll need (Recommended list)
Jack, Jack Stands, assorted pipe wrenches, 17mm socket, 19mm socket, 10mm socket, 12mm socket, breaker bar, 32mm socket (for axle nuts), axle pry bar, pair of pliers. Having 2 sets of ratches, and 2 of each socket doesn't hurt either. IIRC there are 6 17mm bolts on the tranny, 2 19mm bolts on the rear bracket. Have something sitting or supporting the engine cause you might rip an engine mount. Also, having a bitch pin tool is a great idea. The shift linkage is a bitch to get off sometimes.
You'll want to start by jacking the car up, and supporting it with jackstands, drain fluids (coolant and tranny oil), then taking the tires off. Have someone hold the brake or with an air gun, use the 32mm socket to remove the axle nut. If it has the security pin in that, use the pliers to remove it. Now you'll want to disconnect the crown nut just behind the rotor on the bottom. You'll need want to remove the bolt that supports the bottom of the shock. from here you can pry the axle out of the tranny and slide the axle out through the shock. repeat process on other side. Remove the clutch line with a 10mm (IIRC pipe wrench.) Remove the mount on the passenger side, don't forget to support motor. Remove the passenger side tranny bracket (front of tranny). Remove the rear bracket (2 19mm bolts on driver's side up near firewall. You may have to remove exhaust manifold/header. finish unbolting tranny, try not to get oil everywhere.
Im sure I forgot stuffs, but Im at work, so good luck!
You'll need (Recommended list)
Jack, Jack Stands, assorted pipe wrenches, 17mm socket, 19mm socket, 10mm socket, 12mm socket, breaker bar, 32mm socket (for axle nuts), axle pry bar, pair of pliers. Having 2 sets of ratches, and 2 of each socket doesn't hurt either. IIRC there are 6 17mm bolts on the tranny, 2 19mm bolts on the rear bracket. Have something sitting or supporting the engine cause you might rip an engine mount. Also, having a bitch pin tool is a great idea. The shift linkage is a bitch to get off sometimes.
You'll want to start by jacking the car up, and supporting it with jackstands, drain fluids (coolant and tranny oil), then taking the tires off. Have someone hold the brake or with an air gun, use the 32mm socket to remove the axle nut. If it has the security pin in that, use the pliers to remove it. Now you'll want to disconnect the crown nut just behind the rotor on the bottom. You'll need want to remove the bolt that supports the bottom of the shock. from here you can pry the axle out of the tranny and slide the axle out through the shock. repeat process on other side. Remove the clutch line with a 10mm (IIRC pipe wrench.) Remove the mount on the passenger side, don't forget to support motor. Remove the passenger side tranny bracket (front of tranny). Remove the rear bracket (2 19mm bolts on driver's side up near firewall. You may have to remove exhaust manifold/header. finish unbolting tranny, try not to get oil everywhere.
Im sure I forgot stuffs, but Im at work, so good luck!
gadget man
Joined: Aug 2002
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I have pulled the drivers side axle without pulling the drivers side apart. once the passengers side is apart and axle is out, you unbolt the tranny as you described and with the jack holding it move it towards the passenger side and down a little to clear the engine well, once you get it to the pass side enough you can pull on the drivers side axle just as it goes into the tranny. those axle nuts are a bitch so if you can avoid pulling them why not.
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it will make things alot easier if you remove the wheel assembly. just pull the fork that attached to the strut. its one 14mm bolt and one 17mm bolt with a 17mm nut on the end. after get that off and outta the way remove the lower ball joint and lift the rotar outta the way, the tie rid end will fine but you remove it too if you want. and that will make taking the axles out and putting them back way easier. but of course do this AFTER removing the 32mm axle nuts.
Last edited by freakasis; Sep 26, 2005 at 12:58 PM.
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Joined: May 2004
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hold the tranny up with a jack and take out all the bolts that hold it on. then balance is on the jack and pull/pry it off. then just lower the tranny out the bottom and jack the new one in place. i know on a b-series you can line up the input shaft by looking through the starter whole. you might be able to do this on d-series as well.
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Joined: Nov 2002
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PM Jay
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727-510-6301
Honda Valve Adjustments 50$
I buy and/or Fix Broken Honda transmissions.
I TUNE KPRO AND S300
I DO NOT WORK FOR FREE
E-Z OUT BOLT AND STUD EXTRACTOR: A tool ten times harder than any known drill bit that snaps neatly off in bolt holes thereby ending any possible future use.
727-510-6301
Honda Valve Adjustments 50$
I buy and/or Fix Broken Honda transmissions.
I TUNE KPRO AND S300
I DO NOT WORK FOR FREE
E-Z OUT BOLT AND STUD EXTRACTOR: A tool ten times harder than any known drill bit that snaps neatly off in bolt holes thereby ending any possible future use.
