aftermarket steering wheel
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gadget man
Joined: Aug 2002
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aftermarket steering wheel
I have an aftermarket steering wheel that I am trying to swap from my 88 crx to my 93 civic hb. The grant hub kit that worked on the crx will not work on the hb because of the hb having an airbag and the center rotating assembly that has the contacts in it is too thick, but if I just remove it then there is to much shaft sticking out.
my ? is. is the grant kit for the crx different from the civic, and if so will the grant kit be the only thing I need, or will I need to make any other mods to use a simple horn switch and steering wheel without the airbag shit.
I plan on removing the airbag control modules and sensors later but for now I just want a nice steering wheel. I have seen aftermarket wheels on these civics before, so I know it can be done. just not sure on entirely how.
thanks for the help.
my ? is. is the grant kit for the crx different from the civic, and if so will the grant kit be the only thing I need, or will I need to make any other mods to use a simple horn switch and steering wheel without the airbag shit.
I plan on removing the airbag control modules and sensors later but for now I just want a nice steering wheel. I have seen aftermarket wheels on these civics before, so I know it can be done. just not sure on entirely how.
thanks for the help.
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mullet racing
Joined: Mar 2001
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i have a momo wheel don't know how much it's different, but i took it out of my crx and put it into my 92 civic. the hub was different, very tight fit but it's fine. your blinkers will no longer turn themselves off. and to make your horn work you need to take the metal tab off your 88 and put it on your 93. you'll see what i mean. and you need to wire the horn too. i will post pics and more instructions. it should help you out.
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Great accomplishment only comes with great risk. I’ll accept the crippling, gut wrenching disappointment of risking all, and failing, but only by putting my whole heart and soul, my whole being into something, will I have the chance to walk among the stars.
Those who risk nothing, those who live their lives in fear, will never have that chance.
Failure is not a sin. It’s being too afraid to even try, that is a sin.
Great accomplishment only comes with great risk. I’ll accept the crippling, gut wrenching disappointment of risking all, and failing, but only by putting my whole heart and soul, my whole being into something, will I have the chance to walk among the stars.
Those who risk nothing, those who live their lives in fear, will never have that chance.
Failure is not a sin. It’s being too afraid to even try, that is a sin.
Last edited by deez92; Feb 26, 2005 at 10:51 PM.
mullet racing
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 2,432
Likes: 0
pics http://community.webshots.com/album/49459198Cjsfnx
Philips Screwdriver
Torx T30 screwdriver
19mm socket and ratchet
14-16 gauge wire
Honda part # 35259-SH3-A02 (shoe horn)
Tiny screw
Wire cutter
Grease (Mobil 1 synthetic grease or equivalent)
When I refer to a PIC, please check the link here for the pictures:
JDM Wheel Installation Pictures
Removal of old steering wheel:
1. First, remove the 3 screws that are on the bottom of the rear steering wheel cover (the one the covers the turn signals and headlight switch), and just yank off the bottom portion of the steering wheel cover. The top cover is easily taken off too. No Pic.
2. Next, disable the SRS airbag by unscrewing the single screw on the bottom of the steering wheel, and pull down the cover. You will see a red piece called the short connecter. PIC 1, 2.
3. If you look on the bottom of the steering wheel, where you have just taken off the bottom cover, you will see a yellow connection. Unplug this connection and using the red short connecter, secure it to the yellow plug that you just detached. PIC 2, 3.
4. Next, look on the left side of the steering wheel, and you should see a piece that can be taken off. PIC 4. Once you have that off, you will see PIC 5. Using your Torx T30 screwdriver, take off the bolt.
5. Now, look on the right side of the steering wheel where the cruise control is. Fortunately for me, mine didn’t have a cruise control, just a cover. PIC 6. Once the cover is off, there will be 2 screws that will need to be taken off. PIC 7. After that, you will then see another Torx T30 bolt. Remove that too PIC 7.
6. You will now be able to remove the SRS Airbag. Place it safely away.
7. Now, disconnect the horn wire as well as the cruise control and the srs plug from the steering wheel. PIC 8.
8. Now, just unbolt the 19mm nut from the center of the steering wheel. Now, before you remove the steering wheel try to mark the position where the top of the steering wheel would be using some sort of marker or white-out on the steering column’s bolt. (no Pic). Now wiggle out the steering wheel. Your steering wheel should look something like this now. PIC 9. You can now discard the old steering wheel as well as the old airbag.
Removing the SRS wire harness:
1. With the steering wheel off, you should see the wire harness for the srs and cruise control. PIC 8.
2. There are 3 screws holding it in place. Unscrew them. Now, remove the under dash panel underneath the steering column (uses 3 screws), as well as the metal knee bolster( uses 2 10mm bolts). Follow the SRS wire harness to underneath the steering column and unplug the yellow connection, and remove the entire SRS wire harness. You should be left with a harness like this. PIC 10. Discard this harness as you won’t need it anymore.
How to make the horn work:
Here is the most valuable piece of information that most people want to know… how to make the horn work when using the JDM non-SRS steering wheel from an EG.
1. Start off by getting a piece known as a shoe horn, PART #35259-SH3-A02, from any Honda dealer. It comes from the horn trigger of the 88-91 civics. It will look like this. PIC 11.
2. Some modification will need to be done to it in order for it to work properly. You will need to cut a tiny piece of the shoe horn in order for it to install correctly. The Red shapes in the pic are the things that will need to be cut. PIC 11.
3. Installation of the Shoe horn: Once you have gotten the modifications done to the shoe horn, proceed by unscrewing the combination switch lever which is held on by 3 screws behind the white plastic in the middle. You can see 1 of the screws here. PIC 12. Remove it carefully from the steering column.
4. Now, look on the bottom of the combination switch lever on the side with where you turn on the headlights. To connect the shoe horn, simply place the female spade connecter into the male spade connecter on the bottom side of the combination switch lever. Here is a pic from the bottom of the combination switch lever. PIC 13. Once that is secure, go back to the front and screw in the tiny screw that I said you needed too (it is silver on mine). PIC 12.
5. Wiring the horn. Now that the shoe horn is in place, you will need to wire it properly. Look behind the combination switch lever, (headlight lever side) and look and the wire connection area. Get about 2-3 feet of the 14-16 gauge wire for this. You will need to place one end of the wire where I have placed my hand holding it at in this pic. PIC 14.
6. The other end of the wire, will go where you previously separated the SRS wire harness from the underside of the steering column. I don’t know how to describe where to put it correctly, so I will just show you a pic of where to place it. PIC 15. Sitting from the driver seat, it should be on the left side of the connection.
7. That’s it for the wiring. Now place the combination switch lever back on the steering column, and put the 3 screws back in so that it looks like PIC 12 again.
Installation of the new JDM EG non-srs steering wheel:
1. First, separate the JDM steering wheel into its two pieces (Steering wheel, and horn plate) by unscrewing the 3 screws on the back of the steering wheel. It should look like PIC 16, 17.
2. Before you place the JDM steering wheel on, you will need to use the grease (PIC 1
on the back of the steering wheel where the shoe horn will make contact with the wheel. PIC 19 (area covered in red)
3. Now, place the JDM steering wheel onto the steering column and bolt on the 19mm nut (36 lb-ft torque spec) The trickest part here, is how to line it up, so that the steering wheel is place correctly i.e. when you are driving in a straight line, the steering wheel is in its upright position. PIC 17. Trial and error. At this point, you can drive it around a little and see if it is to your liking. If not, unscrew the 19mm nut and adjust. Drive again, and repeat the process. Also, Make sure that the shoe horn is touching the metal contact area of the steering wheel. PIC 20.
4. Once you have it straight, all you need to do is screw on the front of the JDM Steering wheel. I think this is the hardest part. First you want to screw on the bottom screw first. Don’t tighten it all the way yet though. After that, do either the top left or top right one by turning the steering wheel over so that it looks like this: PIC 21. You will probably need a small and thin screwdriver for this, cause it is a PITA.
5. Once you are done with that, check to make sure the horn works. If it does, then you are done, and you car should now look like this: PIC 22. If the horn doesn’t work, you will need to check to see if the shoe horn is touching the steering wheel, and/or check your wiring connections.
6. Also. Don’t forget to put back on the rear steering wheel column cover and put the 3 screws back in.
Philips Screwdriver
Torx T30 screwdriver
19mm socket and ratchet
14-16 gauge wire
Honda part # 35259-SH3-A02 (shoe horn)
Tiny screw
Wire cutter
Grease (Mobil 1 synthetic grease or equivalent)
When I refer to a PIC, please check the link here for the pictures:
JDM Wheel Installation Pictures
Removal of old steering wheel:
1. First, remove the 3 screws that are on the bottom of the rear steering wheel cover (the one the covers the turn signals and headlight switch), and just yank off the bottom portion of the steering wheel cover. The top cover is easily taken off too. No Pic.
2. Next, disable the SRS airbag by unscrewing the single screw on the bottom of the steering wheel, and pull down the cover. You will see a red piece called the short connecter. PIC 1, 2.
3. If you look on the bottom of the steering wheel, where you have just taken off the bottom cover, you will see a yellow connection. Unplug this connection and using the red short connecter, secure it to the yellow plug that you just detached. PIC 2, 3.
4. Next, look on the left side of the steering wheel, and you should see a piece that can be taken off. PIC 4. Once you have that off, you will see PIC 5. Using your Torx T30 screwdriver, take off the bolt.
5. Now, look on the right side of the steering wheel where the cruise control is. Fortunately for me, mine didn’t have a cruise control, just a cover. PIC 6. Once the cover is off, there will be 2 screws that will need to be taken off. PIC 7. After that, you will then see another Torx T30 bolt. Remove that too PIC 7.
6. You will now be able to remove the SRS Airbag. Place it safely away.
7. Now, disconnect the horn wire as well as the cruise control and the srs plug from the steering wheel. PIC 8.
8. Now, just unbolt the 19mm nut from the center of the steering wheel. Now, before you remove the steering wheel try to mark the position where the top of the steering wheel would be using some sort of marker or white-out on the steering column’s bolt. (no Pic). Now wiggle out the steering wheel. Your steering wheel should look something like this now. PIC 9. You can now discard the old steering wheel as well as the old airbag.
Removing the SRS wire harness:
1. With the steering wheel off, you should see the wire harness for the srs and cruise control. PIC 8.
2. There are 3 screws holding it in place. Unscrew them. Now, remove the under dash panel underneath the steering column (uses 3 screws), as well as the metal knee bolster( uses 2 10mm bolts). Follow the SRS wire harness to underneath the steering column and unplug the yellow connection, and remove the entire SRS wire harness. You should be left with a harness like this. PIC 10. Discard this harness as you won’t need it anymore.
How to make the horn work:
Here is the most valuable piece of information that most people want to know… how to make the horn work when using the JDM non-SRS steering wheel from an EG.
1. Start off by getting a piece known as a shoe horn, PART #35259-SH3-A02, from any Honda dealer. It comes from the horn trigger of the 88-91 civics. It will look like this. PIC 11.
2. Some modification will need to be done to it in order for it to work properly. You will need to cut a tiny piece of the shoe horn in order for it to install correctly. The Red shapes in the pic are the things that will need to be cut. PIC 11.
3. Installation of the Shoe horn: Once you have gotten the modifications done to the shoe horn, proceed by unscrewing the combination switch lever which is held on by 3 screws behind the white plastic in the middle. You can see 1 of the screws here. PIC 12. Remove it carefully from the steering column.
4. Now, look on the bottom of the combination switch lever on the side with where you turn on the headlights. To connect the shoe horn, simply place the female spade connecter into the male spade connecter on the bottom side of the combination switch lever. Here is a pic from the bottom of the combination switch lever. PIC 13. Once that is secure, go back to the front and screw in the tiny screw that I said you needed too (it is silver on mine). PIC 12.
5. Wiring the horn. Now that the shoe horn is in place, you will need to wire it properly. Look behind the combination switch lever, (headlight lever side) and look and the wire connection area. Get about 2-3 feet of the 14-16 gauge wire for this. You will need to place one end of the wire where I have placed my hand holding it at in this pic. PIC 14.
6. The other end of the wire, will go where you previously separated the SRS wire harness from the underside of the steering column. I don’t know how to describe where to put it correctly, so I will just show you a pic of where to place it. PIC 15. Sitting from the driver seat, it should be on the left side of the connection.
7. That’s it for the wiring. Now place the combination switch lever back on the steering column, and put the 3 screws back in so that it looks like PIC 12 again.
Installation of the new JDM EG non-srs steering wheel:
1. First, separate the JDM steering wheel into its two pieces (Steering wheel, and horn plate) by unscrewing the 3 screws on the back of the steering wheel. It should look like PIC 16, 17.
2. Before you place the JDM steering wheel on, you will need to use the grease (PIC 1
on the back of the steering wheel where the shoe horn will make contact with the wheel. PIC 19 (area covered in red)3. Now, place the JDM steering wheel onto the steering column and bolt on the 19mm nut (36 lb-ft torque spec) The trickest part here, is how to line it up, so that the steering wheel is place correctly i.e. when you are driving in a straight line, the steering wheel is in its upright position. PIC 17. Trial and error. At this point, you can drive it around a little and see if it is to your liking. If not, unscrew the 19mm nut and adjust. Drive again, and repeat the process. Also, Make sure that the shoe horn is touching the metal contact area of the steering wheel. PIC 20.
4. Once you have it straight, all you need to do is screw on the front of the JDM Steering wheel. I think this is the hardest part. First you want to screw on the bottom screw first. Don’t tighten it all the way yet though. After that, do either the top left or top right one by turning the steering wheel over so that it looks like this: PIC 21. You will probably need a small and thin screwdriver for this, cause it is a PITA.
5. Once you are done with that, check to make sure the horn works. If it does, then you are done, and you car should now look like this: PIC 22. If the horn doesn’t work, you will need to check to see if the shoe horn is touching the steering wheel, and/or check your wiring connections.
6. Also. Don’t forget to put back on the rear steering wheel column cover and put the 3 screws back in.
__________________
Great accomplishment only comes with great risk. I’ll accept the crippling, gut wrenching disappointment of risking all, and failing, but only by putting my whole heart and soul, my whole being into something, will I have the chance to walk among the stars.
Those who risk nothing, those who live their lives in fear, will never have that chance.
Failure is not a sin. It’s being too afraid to even try, that is a sin.
Great accomplishment only comes with great risk. I’ll accept the crippling, gut wrenching disappointment of risking all, and failing, but only by putting my whole heart and soul, my whole being into something, will I have the chance to walk among the stars.
Those who risk nothing, those who live their lives in fear, will never have that chance.
Failure is not a sin. It’s being too afraid to even try, that is a sin.
Thread Starter
gadget man
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 2,638
Likes: 0
thanks for the info. I had taken the steering wheel off the crx ( apc d-shape) and had taken the civic wheel off when I discovered the srs crap in the way, and the hub kit for the apc wheel will not work with the civic because of the depth of the splines down the shaft. that sucks that the turn signals will not cancel, there has to be a way to make it work. the white thing that spins freely around the steering shaft in pic 12. is the turn signal canceling mechanism ( according to helm) so I'm thinking a mod to the back of the steering wheel may make that work. thanks for the info I'll see what I can do with the grant hub kit but I have a feeling I will have to switch to a momo/sparco 6-bolt wheel and hub kit. thanks
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