get some cams! crane stage 2's work nicely with stock valvesprings...

 

cams and an intake manifold w/ a larger throttle body....that'll do ya some good...

 

 

yea defenitly tunning. A major key when doing a lsvtec. I had one for about 2years. I could have easily produced another 30whp with proper tuning.

 

blah blah blah...

My word of advice:
Figure out how fast you want to go, then proceed as needed.

 

I know I'm nothing quick right now but I run a 15 sec 1/4 mile. I'm looking to get somewhere in the 14's.

 

Nitrous is the most cost effective solution to go fast

If you want to bump your 1/4 mile time up by about 1/2 a second stage 2 cams such as crane 0012 cams will help you along with a fuel pressure regulator & guage...

The cams should provide you with 8-12 whp maybe more depending on your setup etc...

 

You can bore the block without resleeving it if you plan to stay all motor.


Obviously if I stated dyno time, that would mean you would be tuning the car on it. Kinda pointless if you don't.


I gained 8whp from bolting on a Mugen 4-1 header. If you pick the right parts, there is a lot to gain.


I suggested dyno time (TUNING), but before doing that, cam gears and maybe a fuel pressure regulator would be things to install before hitting the rollers. You can squeeze a couple extra hp by tuning the cam gears, create a smoother curve and pull out the losses.


Crower non vtec cams seems to work rather well.
Their vtec cams aren't worth shit, just ask the few people that have tried and broke em in 4 pieces.


Without tearing into the motor, changing the headgasket, or shaving the head would allow the added compression. You could run as high as 12.5:1 and be fine on pump gas.


You could remove the power steering belt too. It frees some some parasitic drag and doesn't cost you anything. Don't know exact hp gains though.


I bigger throttle body would help. Getting it Taper bored adds hp as well.


Other than that, a shorter geared tranny, like an Si box, would be good too.


When at the track, inflate your rear tires to their max psi, or more, and drop your front tires to somewhere around 20-25psi. Hey, every bit helps



As for picking at my list about boring twice, I didn't state what to bore the block to, so I listed 84.5mm pistons.



If anything else comes to mind, I will let you know.

 

In response to:
"You can bore the block without resleeving it if you plan to stay all motor. "

You can't bore a block to 84mm without resleeving it. The MAX you would want to bore a b18 block to on stock sleeves is 81.5mm

84.5mm pistons would require a b20 block bored out .5 over or a b18 block sleeved to 84.5 mm. Hence it would cost him a shitload of money.


A mugen header is a nice thing but a rip off IMO.
They are nice but not worth the money.
A cheap dc sports JDM ITR replica header will make the same or close to the same whp as a mugen header.