If a very good deal on a turbo for my 96 ex came along purchase or no? DOHC would be nice but not right now. i just want some more power not for racing even just generally. + and - of this setup anyone have it? How much power are we looking at. I understand the size of the turbo is gonna be a big factor but just some general ideas thanks.

 

Well it just mainly depends on how much power you want out of the motor you have in there. There are some ppl that have nasty fast sohc vtec turbos, then there is the deciding how much boost are you going to run. If you run low boost such as 7-10 psi you dont need a whole lot to make it work, just what comes with a kit such as the greddy turbo kit is not a bad kit at all it comes with all of the hardware needed to get make it work except I dont htink it comes with an intercooler im not positive. However anymore than that it woould be a good idea to build the bottom end. Then its a good idea if you want it to run right to get Hondata, 92'cxhatch(Keith) on the board knows alot about this im not sure what exactly it is. But I believe it replaces the stock ecu so you can run boost without going through problems and having codes showing up so on and an so forth. Hope that helps.

 

I'm aiming for 300-350whp on my D-Series with Precision SC50. It all depends on the turbo and whether or not you build the motor. For applications under 400whp it is generally cheaper to just build up a D-Series and turbo it. The cost of SRP pistons and some Eagle rods is around $700, then some money for gaskets and assembly, it will come up cheaper than a swap and more reliable too.

 

Well I dont know about more reliable then a swap but being that its a coupe itll be faster than like a stock 99-2000 civic si or someting along those lines. But thats true the parts are cheaper where you can save money in the long run for dat ish.

 

With $2500 to spend...

Option 1) You can swap and rely on the tooth-pick of a stock rod in the middle with PUNY rod bolts mated with a CAST aluminum factory piston or....

Option 2) You can retain the D Series motor and install either the forged Crower rod on the left or the forged Eagle rod on the right with much higher tensile strenth rod bolts and pair it with forged aluminum pistons designed to withstand twice the tempertures and power. Not to mention this option cost less than the budgeted $2500 or the average price of a B swap.

A built D Series is going to be more reliable than a stock B swap. Now if you have enough money to build AND boost a B, that is a different story.

 

[lumberg voice]Yeah Im gunna have to go ahead and disagree with you there[/lumberg voice]

 

Well then why don't you go ahead and give some supporting evidence or thoughts at least. How do you figure STOCK CAST parts are going to hold up to boost better than some aftermarket FORGED internals designed to hold TWICE the power and TWICE the tempertures?

 

you did'nt say stock internals with boost you said that a BOOSTED d-series with forged rods and pistons is more reliable than a STOCK b-series no boosted motor esp a D-series is going to be more reliable than a stock motor

 

I NEVER said that. Let me go ahead and refer you back up to where you quoted me in your first post in this thread.

What I was referring to was EVERYTHING else being EQUAL. Boost or no boost, tuning or no tuning.

 

well thanks this gives me some good options. B series motors are great but a fully built turbo b series is down the road. A fully built d series will make me happy for now. $2500 is the cost to build just the motor?