h22a, ls vtech, b18, b16a or b16b?
i've got a built h22a in my accord and i have to say with the 15lbs of boost i'm running its sick even on street tires i'm hitting 88mph in the 1/8 (high 7's) with a/c and full interior....but there is alot of pit falls with it, mainly in the intake manifold (i.e. secondaries opening to slow or not at all) and the every time you change or redo the timing belt its $70 for the stupid hydrolic tensioner, also the b-serires motors don't have balance shafts, witch the h22a does and i've heard of people disenguaging them (faster revs/less rotating mass) but soon after the crank ate its self...and there is way more parts and better prices fo rthe b-series stuff...and like you i'm unable to decided on what motor to put in my new civic hatch, mostly i'm just concerned with the room available in the bay, cause if i do it i want to put my T-40e back on it... but i still want my a/c and i don't think it will fit
Originally posted by ~Boost Freak~
i've got a built h22a in my accord and i have to say with the 15lbs of boost i'm running its sick even on street tires i'm hitting 88mph in the 1/8 (high 7's) with a/c and full interior....but there is alot of pit falls with it, mainly in the intake manifold (i.e. secondaries opening to slow or not at all) and the every time you change or redo the timing belt its $70 for the stupid hydrolic tensioner, also the b-serires motors don't have balance shafts, witch the h22a does and i've heard of people disenguaging them (faster revs/less rotating mass) but soon after the crank ate its self...and there is way more parts and better prices fo rthe b-series stuff...and like you i'm unable to decided on what motor to put in my new civic hatch, mostly i'm just concerned with the room available in the bay, cause if i do it i want to put my T-40e back on it... but i still want my a/c and i don't think it will fit
i've got a built h22a in my accord and i have to say with the 15lbs of boost i'm running its sick even on street tires i'm hitting 88mph in the 1/8 (high 7's) with a/c and full interior....but there is alot of pit falls with it, mainly in the intake manifold (i.e. secondaries opening to slow or not at all) and the every time you change or redo the timing belt its $70 for the stupid hydrolic tensioner, also the b-serires motors don't have balance shafts, witch the h22a does and i've heard of people disenguaging them (faster revs/less rotating mass) but soon after the crank ate its self...and there is way more parts and better prices fo rthe b-series stuff...and like you i'm unable to decided on what motor to put in my new civic hatch, mostly i'm just concerned with the room available in the bay, cause if i do it i want to put my T-40e back on it... but i still want my a/c and i don't think it will fit
what size is your turbo?
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Man, I miss this car!!!
Man, I miss this car!!!
never dynoed, haven't gone down to bradenton yet so only know th 1/8 mile times.... average is 7.98 fastest is 7.82 on street tires
i'm running a garrett T04e - O-trim (.60-.63) stage 3 non ball bearing
before i had a Garrett T3-T4 and had a bunch of problems but most have gone away scince switching to new turbo
i'm running a garrett T04e - O-trim (.60-.63) stage 3 non ball bearing
before i had a Garrett T3-T4 and had a bunch of problems but most have gone away scince switching to new turbo
my friend has a 99 lude and i looked at it close to see how it all goes down and it looks pretty rough. how do you do teh mounts? i mean i konw you have to cut the fire wall right? idk i'm just lost. is it really worth all the work? is there another way to get the power out of the box? lol
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stock eg rear seat f/s with no rips. make an offer.
stock eg rear seat f/s with no rips. make an offer.
yeah your right about teh swap but can't you put a d16 vtec head on the d15 bottom end? does anything have to be done if so? i see people selling them cheap.
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stock eg rear seat f/s with no rips. make an offer.
stock eg rear seat f/s with no rips. make an offer.


