PM me if you really want to. i wasnt planning on taking it out but i can. i dont think i can put my stock one back in so i might need yours.

 

Corey some do not like the "lag" you get if you do not get on it during city driving, it's all in the owners idea of what is acceptable!

 

I had a 11 inch 2800 in the car when i bought it, and didnt even know it was there, till I stuck the 9 inch 3600 in and the tranny guy told me I already had a 2800.

Thats how weak they are.

 

I tend to agree with Gimpy here... Anything less than a 3500 is a waste in both time and effort. You WILL want a little more if you start under 3500. I started with a 3000 because I didn't do enough research and couldn't find anyone at the time around here that had an A4. Then moved to a harder hitting 3500 and was VERY pleased. Once I went into the motor I jumped to a 4400 and was AMAZED at the launching power. 1.4 sixty foots were the usual, granted the 4400 was a wee bit much on the street with 3.23's. Once I moved to 3.73's+ it was much tighter.

The proper way to select the converter is to take a look at your locked dyno graph. Where is the start of your peak power? Select a stall speed as close to there with the correct shift extension to drop you right back into that sweet spot as you can. From there you need to drive similarly modded cars with stalls to see what you feel you can "live" with on a daily basis and make a compromise.

 

Gimpy? watch yo' mouf' there, shrimpy!

 

i agree with said gimp as well. j/k corey. dont listen to anyone other than ls1 owners with 4l60e trannys. it is a totally different world. the car moves just fine with a ss3600 convertor.

first not all convertors are built the same or perform the same.

second a 3600 convertor can and will have a totally different characteristic as a different brand.

then there is the confusion that some brands like vigelanti stall higher than rated (there 3200 stalls at a real life 3700 rpms in a stock ls1 car).

best and ONLY way to determine is get in and drive one. you will be amazed how streetable and after the first week, you wont even notice it at part throttle. coreys convertor is built to be night and tight and move with just a little throttle effort. my yank st4000 is more loose but a big harder hitting.

just have to compare apples to apples. now if you were to tell me this is a non-lockup th-350/400 with a 3500 stall, i would say screw that!

 

also it dpeends on the str rating....I had a midwest 3600/2.0 str...but I had 373 gears b/c I had a new rear...mine was a daily driver and it barely affected gas mileage in the city, on the highway no difference....I had a steel stator for n20 as well....dont go with a 3200, honestly get a 3500 or 3600, you will enjoy it, i recommend a 3600/2.5 str for stock 323 gears but hey its your car, your money

 

i thought autos came stock with 2.73 's ????

 

Some had optional 3.23s.

 

anyway to find out if i have the optional 3.23's ????