Pulled the motor and found some suprises....
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Re: Re: Pulled the motor and found some suprises....
Originally posted by Silverchickn
Not sure if I read this right but are you saying you got a block from Valve god and didnt go over it with a micrometer before assembling it? I have heard it was always a good idea to have it checked and line honed before assembling?
Im not trying to throw your mistake in your face just getting clarification. When you plastigauged it did all of the clearences look ok?
Not sure if I read this right but are you saying you got a block from Valve god and didnt go over it with a micrometer before assembling it? I have heard it was always a good idea to have it checked and line honed before assembling?
Im not trying to throw your mistake in your face just getting clarification. When you plastigauged it did all of the clearences look ok?
The block was sold (as are all his blocks) as fully machined and ready to run. I bought the block because it was "ready to run". If I needed to get the line hone (crank and cam) and bored too, I would have saved the $600 and bought a used block and saved in the long run or kept my old block.
I dont like plastigauge. Ive seen some bad things from that stuff and its also an estimation. I rather use a mic as its totally accurate. I had 2 machine shops mic everything (I didnt have the mics) and it was dead on, but if you have a cap thats out of alignment, then the clearence might be right, but the crank isnt centered and thats what cause the problem.
Im waiting on my main studs now and its getting line honed.
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Originally posted by Country Boy
I would do the 408. I was in the process of it, but backed out. I had a new GM 6.0 lined up and a Eagle 4" crank with some Lunati Pro Mod rods all ready to go, but I backed out. There comes a point that you have to enjoy the car and you cant be the fastest around. The bigger th bank account, the faster you are
Futral is an awesome guy. Weve talked a few times about parts and hes tried to help me with my low oil pressure problem. I wouldnt hesitate to buy a motor from him if I had the money!
I would do the 408. I was in the process of it, but backed out. I had a new GM 6.0 lined up and a Eagle 4" crank with some Lunati Pro Mod rods all ready to go, but I backed out. There comes a point that you have to enjoy the car and you cant be the fastest around. The bigger th bank account, the faster you are
Futral is an awesome guy. Weve talked a few times about parts and hes tried to help me with my low oil pressure problem. I wouldnt hesitate to buy a motor from him if I had the money!
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Originally posted by Country Boy
I guess my HP numbers wernt bad considering this was the engine
I guess my HP numbers wernt bad considering this was the engine
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Single Toyota Supra Auto, Twin Turbo C5 FRC, and Chevy Duramax!!
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Single Toyota Supra Auto, Twin Turbo C5 FRC, and Chevy Duramax!!
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I guess I installed the main wrong (or so I was told). I guess they might have been upside down or something. Theres no way in hell there was something worng with the block.......
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Originally posted by Country Boy
I guess I installed the main wrong (or so I was told). I guess they might have been upside down or something. Theres no way in hell there was something worng with the block.......
I guess I installed the main wrong (or so I was told). I guess they might have been upside down or something. Theres no way in hell there was something worng with the block.......
How can a main bearing be installed upside down?
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98 Silver Formula M6
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98 Silver Formula M6
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Originally posted by Silverchickn
Can you elaborate on that? So the block was bad or did you install something incorrectly?
How can a main bearing be installed upside down?
Can you elaborate on that? So the block was bad or did you install something incorrectly?
How can a main bearing be installed upside down?
Read this: http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=121531
The machine shop is going to measure it all and find out in the next couple weeks. I had to wait on the main studs to get here.
