Breaking in an engine
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whats everyones views on breaking in a fresh engine? Please no i think.. answers only people who have actually built/broken in/seen results speak up. Its been common practice forever that you put on 500-1000 miles of gentle driving before you get on the gas. But have times changed? Here is something a friend of mine from another list had to say on the subject:
Although I will probably put quite a few miles on mine before boosting anyway.. I would like any input on this subject as its about time for me to fire up the new engine. Thanks everyone!
Originally posted by "Someone"
In todays day and age breaking in a motor is totally useless.
If the block is honed properly(crosshatch and microfinish) is round and you use the proper rings.
Most of todays rings and all Ive seen for our engines are Molyfilled The first time the engine starts its broken in Stainless rings need a breakin period but Ive never heard of a stainless steel ring for our motors. Any reputable machine shop should be capable of doing our motors they are just chrysler blocks(typically hard high nickel content).
You match the hone job to the type of ring its simple. To get a round bore you use a torque plate
Ive been building motors for almost 30 years(thats when the moly rings were started). Ive set NHRA national records with a variety of chrysler motors (from hemis & a motors to our turbo motors.
When I do a motor I make one easy pass to make sure nothing falls off then the next pass is all out. Ive never saw a motor pick up power or leakdown any better with age.
In todays day and age breaking in a motor is totally useless.
If the block is honed properly(crosshatch and microfinish) is round and you use the proper rings.
Most of todays rings and all Ive seen for our engines are Molyfilled The first time the engine starts its broken in Stainless rings need a breakin period but Ive never heard of a stainless steel ring for our motors. Any reputable machine shop should be capable of doing our motors they are just chrysler blocks(typically hard high nickel content).
You match the hone job to the type of ring its simple. To get a round bore you use a torque plate
Ive been building motors for almost 30 years(thats when the moly rings were started). Ive set NHRA national records with a variety of chrysler motors (from hemis & a motors to our turbo motors.
When I do a motor I make one easy pass to make sure nothing falls off then the next pass is all out. Ive never saw a motor pick up power or leakdown any better with age.
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Are you using a new cam? If not just be easy the first 500-1000 miles and you should be fine then change the oil and your done. If you have a new cam its different. Vary rpm from 1500-2500 for approx 30 min then change oil and drive easy for 500-1000 miles then change oil. At least thats what we did we did jump into some high speed for a minute or so but we didnt need to because the way the engine was built torque plate and rings. Forgot to mention the ynthetic oil thing Bad for break in very bad. especially if some of the assembly lube is still on the internal components. Dont forget to prime (oil) her before you crank her over.
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Lori do i need to break in the cam only if its a NEW new cam? What if its just a new cam for that particular head.. but the cam itself is used?
These replies have made me think of another question.. Oil changes. Im not at all worried about wasting oil or the cost of it. So how often should I change it during break in? Ive heard to fire up the engine let it run for like 5-10 min then change the oil (to get anyhting BIG from the buildup out). Then run it 100 miles change then 500-1000 change then go on as normal.
These replies have made me think of another question.. Oil changes. Im not at all worried about wasting oil or the cost of it. So how often should I change it during break in? Ive heard to fire up the engine let it run for like 5-10 min then change the oil (to get anyhting BIG from the buildup out). Then run it 100 miles change then 500-1000 change then go on as normal.
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All those NHRA guys just stick one in and go at it but they also
have like 20 backups. From what Ive heard from all the
experienced engine builders they say that new cars dont need
break ins anymore just more oil changes the first few thousand
miles. Built engines should still be broken in built meaning not
in a new
have like 20 backups. From what Ive heard from all the
experienced engine builders they say that new cars dont need
break ins anymore just more oil changes the first few thousand
miles. Built engines should still be broken in built meaning not
in a new
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R.I.P. - Jason Harrill - 6/12/06
"Well, here's the thing".....you will be missed.
R.I.P. - Jason Harrill - 6/12/06
"Well, here's the thing".....you will be missed.
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Well...I had my motor built by Agostino Racing in Canada. A famous Chevy engine builder. His advice to me was surprising to say the least. He said start it up check everything thouroughly like oil pressure leaks etc. Drive it around the block a few times. Bring it back and let it cool down repeat several times. Then strap it to the dyno and let it fly...Doh! I couldnt bring myself to do this though. I put about 500 on it before i started hammering the motor.
He did stress NOT to use synthetic oil for at least 4000 miles.
Thats my story and Im sticking to it.....Al
He did stress NOT to use synthetic oil for at least 4000 miles.
Thats my story and Im sticking to it.....Al
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if it's cheap & reliable, it ain't fast, if it's fast & cheap, it ain't reliable, if it's fast & reliable, it ain't cheap
if it's cheap & reliable, it ain't fast, if it's fast & cheap, it ain't reliable, if it's fast & reliable, it ain't cheap
I have fuzzy eyebrows
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From what I understand synthetic oils actually lubricate a little TOO well for the piston rings to seat properly. Seating rings is nothing more than grinding away the high spots until the sufaces mate well. Syn lubes dont allow this to happen properly.
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if it's cheap & reliable, it ain't fast, if it's fast & cheap, it ain't reliable, if it's fast & reliable, it ain't cheap
if it's cheap & reliable, it ain't fast, if it's fast & cheap, it ain't reliable, if it's fast & reliable, it ain't cheap
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