DIY Boost Controllers
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DIY Boost Controllers
Can't I just use several brass fittings at my local home improvement store to make myself a boost controller?
I know the manual EBAY ones go for $40, buy why not just go to Lowe's and make one myself for only $15?
Oh, and im also wondering if there's any major difference between manual and electrical controllers?
I know the manual EBAY ones go for $40, buy why not just go to Lowe's and make one myself for only $15?
Oh, and im also wondering if there's any major difference between manual and electrical controllers?
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Originally Posted by ImportLuv
Oh, and im also wondering if there's any major difference between manual and electrical controllers?
Yeah, one has many more features and you dont have to get off your ass to adjust it
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Heavy car with a 2.5L
Heavy car with a 2.5L
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www.C-Speedracing.com
"Does your wastegate open too soon? Or do you want to run more boost? Well here's the quickest and simplest solution to your problem. This manual boost controller will regulate boost up to any desired boost level and will hold the wastegate closed until the desired boost level has been reached. Your turbo will spool quicker and you can forget about spiking problems. All for under $4.00 from your local hardware store."
MATERIALS:
1 x 1/8" NPT 1/4" Barbed Nipple (Male Fitting) - $1.00
1 x 1/8" NPT 1/4" Barbed Nipple (Female Fitting) - $1.00
1 x 3/16" Ball Bearing - $0.15
1 x Utility Spring - $0.30
2 x 1/2" Hose Clamps - $0.75
DIRECTIONS
The barbed fittings you get should screw onto each other in opposite directions with a nipple on each end... You will essentially place the spring and ball bearing inside the fittings in such a way so that the spring presses the ball bearing firmly against the inside of the fitting to seal the hole off.
If the spring is too short then you may need to pull on it and stretch it longer. If its too long then just cut a bit of the spring off. The spring should press the ball firmly into the seat when you assemble the two barbed fittings together.
Also, you might want to flare out the ends of the spring so that is 'cups' the ball on one end and so that it can not press itself through the nipple on the other.
Then once you got it all working correctly, you should be able to adjust the boost by the amount of turns you screw the fittings together, you can test this, but blowing in the nipple that has the ball bearing pressed against it. If you can blow through, then keep blowing while turning the fittings and you should feel the ball pressing tighter and it gets harder and harder to blow through until finally you can't blow through any more..
Also, the fittings are pipe threads too, so at some point you'll need to get a wrench out to tighten it further..
To install it, make sure you have the ball bearing side towards the manifold or VAC source and the spring side towards the wastegate, so that the boosted air PUSHES on the ball bearing.
Use mini clamps and clamp it down tight and your good to go..
Start off with the fittings screwed in loose so that you can blow through it yourself, then take it for a drive, slowly tighten it up until you get the boost you want and you're set!
If you tighten the fittings as much as you can and your still not getting enough boost, then just take it apart, and pull on the spring to make it longer, that way it'll push harder on the ball bearing.
Happy Boosting!
Rep points anyone
"Does your wastegate open too soon? Or do you want to run more boost? Well here's the quickest and simplest solution to your problem. This manual boost controller will regulate boost up to any desired boost level and will hold the wastegate closed until the desired boost level has been reached. Your turbo will spool quicker and you can forget about spiking problems. All for under $4.00 from your local hardware store."
MATERIALS:
1 x 1/8" NPT 1/4" Barbed Nipple (Male Fitting) - $1.00
1 x 1/8" NPT 1/4" Barbed Nipple (Female Fitting) - $1.00
1 x 3/16" Ball Bearing - $0.15
1 x Utility Spring - $0.30
2 x 1/2" Hose Clamps - $0.75
DIRECTIONS
The barbed fittings you get should screw onto each other in opposite directions with a nipple on each end... You will essentially place the spring and ball bearing inside the fittings in such a way so that the spring presses the ball bearing firmly against the inside of the fitting to seal the hole off.
If the spring is too short then you may need to pull on it and stretch it longer. If its too long then just cut a bit of the spring off. The spring should press the ball firmly into the seat when you assemble the two barbed fittings together.
Also, you might want to flare out the ends of the spring so that is 'cups' the ball on one end and so that it can not press itself through the nipple on the other.
Then once you got it all working correctly, you should be able to adjust the boost by the amount of turns you screw the fittings together, you can test this, but blowing in the nipple that has the ball bearing pressed against it. If you can blow through, then keep blowing while turning the fittings and you should feel the ball pressing tighter and it gets harder and harder to blow through until finally you can't blow through any more..
Also, the fittings are pipe threads too, so at some point you'll need to get a wrench out to tighten it further..
To install it, make sure you have the ball bearing side towards the manifold or VAC source and the spring side towards the wastegate, so that the boosted air PUSHES on the ball bearing.
Use mini clamps and clamp it down tight and your good to go..
Start off with the fittings screwed in loose so that you can blow through it yourself, then take it for a drive, slowly tighten it up until you get the boost you want and you're set!
If you tighten the fittings as much as you can and your still not getting enough boost, then just take it apart, and pull on the spring to make it longer, that way it'll push harder on the ball bearing.
Happy Boosting!
Rep points anyone
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Last edited by B18C5-EG; Dec 13, 2005 at 12:50 PM.
Shakotan/Hippari life.
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 12,739
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Originally Posted by B18C5-EG
www.C-Speedracing.com
"Does your wastegate open too soon? Or do you want to run more boost? Well here's the quickest and simplest solution to your problem. This manual boost controller will regulate boost up to any desired boost level and will hold the wastegate closed until the desired boost level has been reached. Your turbo will spool quicker and you can forget about spiking problems. All for under $4.00 from your local hardware store."
MATERIALS:
1 x 1/8" NPT 1/4" Barbed Nipple (Male Fitting) - $1.00
1 x 1/8" NPT 1/4" Barbed Nipple (Female Fitting) - $1.00
1 x 3/16" Ball Bearing - $0.15
1 x Utility Spring - $0.30
2 x 1/2" Hose Clamps - $0.75
DIRECTIONS
The barbed fittings you get should screw onto each other in opposite directions with a nipple on each end... You will essentially place the spring and ball bearing inside the fittings in such a way so that the spring presses the ball bearing firmly against the inside of the fitting to seal the hole off.
If the spring is too short then you may need to pull on it and stretch it longer. If its too long then just cut a bit of the spring off. The spring should press the ball firmly into the seat when you assemble the two barbed fittings together.
Also, you might want to flare out the ends of the spring so that is 'cups' the ball on one end and so that it can not press itself through the nipple on the other.
Then once you got it all working correctly, you should be able to adjust the boost by the amount of turns you screw the fittings together, you can test this, but blowing in the nipple that has the ball bearing pressed against it. If you can blow through, then keep blowing while turning the fittings and you should feel the ball pressing tighter and it gets harder and harder to blow through until finally you can't blow through any more..
Also, the fittings are pipe threads too, so at some point you'll need to get a wrench out to tighten it further..
To install it, make sure you have the ball bearing side towards the manifold or VAC source and the spring side towards the wastegate, so that the boosted air PUSHES on the ball bearing.
Use mini clamps and clamp it down tight and your good to go..
Start off with the fittings screwed in loose so that you can blow through it yourself, then take it for a drive, slowly tighten it up until you get the boost you want and you're set!
If you tighten the fittings as much as you can and your still not getting enough boost, then just take it apart, and pull on the spring to make it longer, that way it'll push harder on the ball bearing.
Happy Boosting!
Rep points anyone
"Does your wastegate open too soon? Or do you want to run more boost? Well here's the quickest and simplest solution to your problem. This manual boost controller will regulate boost up to any desired boost level and will hold the wastegate closed until the desired boost level has been reached. Your turbo will spool quicker and you can forget about spiking problems. All for under $4.00 from your local hardware store."
MATERIALS:
1 x 1/8" NPT 1/4" Barbed Nipple (Male Fitting) - $1.00
1 x 1/8" NPT 1/4" Barbed Nipple (Female Fitting) - $1.00
1 x 3/16" Ball Bearing - $0.15
1 x Utility Spring - $0.30
2 x 1/2" Hose Clamps - $0.75
DIRECTIONS
The barbed fittings you get should screw onto each other in opposite directions with a nipple on each end... You will essentially place the spring and ball bearing inside the fittings in such a way so that the spring presses the ball bearing firmly against the inside of the fitting to seal the hole off.
If the spring is too short then you may need to pull on it and stretch it longer. If its too long then just cut a bit of the spring off. The spring should press the ball firmly into the seat when you assemble the two barbed fittings together.
Also, you might want to flare out the ends of the spring so that is 'cups' the ball on one end and so that it can not press itself through the nipple on the other.
Then once you got it all working correctly, you should be able to adjust the boost by the amount of turns you screw the fittings together, you can test this, but blowing in the nipple that has the ball bearing pressed against it. If you can blow through, then keep blowing while turning the fittings and you should feel the ball pressing tighter and it gets harder and harder to blow through until finally you can't blow through any more..
Also, the fittings are pipe threads too, so at some point you'll need to get a wrench out to tighten it further..
To install it, make sure you have the ball bearing side towards the manifold or VAC source and the spring side towards the wastegate, so that the boosted air PUSHES on the ball bearing.
Use mini clamps and clamp it down tight and your good to go..
Start off with the fittings screwed in loose so that you can blow through it yourself, then take it for a drive, slowly tighten it up until you get the boost you want and you're set!
If you tighten the fittings as much as you can and your still not getting enough boost, then just take it apart, and pull on the spring to make it longer, that way it'll push harder on the ball bearing.
Happy Boosting!
Rep points anyone
rep points for you!
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Determined to be famous, destined to be infamous.
-'03 GSX-R 750
Determined to be famous, destined to be infamous.
-'03 GSX-R 750
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 7,403
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Originally Posted by psifactor
Yeah, one has many more features and you dont have to get off your ass to adjust it
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