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Old Oct 29, 2005 | 12:14 PM
  #11 (permalink)  
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big turbo=little traction
 
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ok i have an update.the car runs like shit anywhere past 3/8 throttle.as soon as u step on it the car sputers and misfires like crazzy and then u let off and it runs fine.its only when u get on it or lightly accelarate that it misfires.the filter is good and the sensors are good but there was some roted vacuum elbows that i'm replacing and i'm going to check the plugs when it cools down and see what that tells me.i called advance auto and they want 230 dollars for the cap and rotor.does that sound right and also do u have to take the radiator and fans and water pump and crank pulley off just to get to the cap?also can u adjust the timing on those cars or no?any help please.
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Old Oct 29, 2005 | 02:49 PM
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The timing can be adjusted, but it's through the computer. No need to do this really.

You do not want just the cap and rotor, you want the full thing. If you have time to wait for shipping, I can give you a # for a Chevy dealer that gives us cost + 10% on everything. I think it is $230, with the new vacuum harness that is super highly recommended (more or less required, I won't replace an opti without doing it). Then you get an AC Delco opti. With these motors, you really don't want to use any other sensors than AC Delco. But, I'm a stickler like everyone else. So, I stick to the AC Delco Opti and AC Delco O2 sensors, and mass air meters. Other than that, I personally don't care.

I don't know that the radiator needs to come out on a Camaro or not. I'm used to the Impala LT1, which has a good 2 feet between the motor and the fans. The pully does need to come off. You remove the 3 screws around the outside, not the big one in the middle. If you hit it with PB Blaster, WD40, whatever, you *should* be able to wiggle it loose. If not you will need a puller. I've done a couple with a rubber mallet when I didn't have a puller around. Water pump does need to come off too.

There is a bleeder on the upper radiator house input thingy. The system is reverse flow cooling and absolutely needs to be bled. The thing is the anti-freeze kills the optis. So, when you are bleeding it, do everything you can to not get the anti-freeze on your new opti.

I would also replace the waterpump while you are at it. You can pick em up for like $40-60, reman units, locally. If the old water pump is bad, it may be dripping anti-freeze out the weep hole on the bottom, right onto your $200 opti.

And, while this is all apart, you might as well just go ahead and do the spark plugs and wires. It's a pain in the ass with the water pump in. I would do the spark plugs through the wheel well if you can, with a like 3 foot extension.

I would not replace an opti ever ever ever ever ever without it being an AC Delco. I would rent a car, or beg for rides, take the bus, whatever, until the AC Delco got there before I would throw my money in the garbage with anything else.

And your symptoms definitely sound like an opti to me.

Gonna PM you the info for the guy to get parts from.
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Old Oct 31, 2005 | 07:54 AM
  #14 (permalink)  
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big turbo=little traction
 
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yeah the opti just got replaced 2 weeks ago so i dont think thats it and it only seems to be doing these things after it gets hot and runs for awhile.its not throwing no codes or anything but i'm going to have it scanned to see if it has a history or anything at all.could the computer ever go bad and make the motor do these little things?the car has 200 thousand miles on it and the motor is outta jegs with 40 thousand on it and all the sensors are good except for the mass air flow.could that make it do that?the computer is also the original for the car to.any help thanks.
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Old Oct 31, 2005 | 07:56 AM
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For future reference better to put these kind of posts in the tech forums...
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Old Oct 31, 2005 | 08:19 AM
  #16 (permalink)  
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big turbo=little traction
 
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yeah i already did that and nobody has replied in 5 days and i need this done a.s.a.p. so i put it in here hoping to get help as u can see.
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Old Oct 31, 2005 | 08:21 AM
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You could unplug the MAF and see what happens. With it unplugged, the car should go into a limp mode, where the trans will shift weird, performance will be less, but should run and drive. I don't know that that would make it mis-fire though.
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Old Oct 31, 2005 | 08:27 AM
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cool i'll try it and see what happens.i plan on trying acouple of things like cleaning the idle air control motor and cleaning out the throttle body and scanning it and a couple of little things but oter than that i cant think of anything else.pcm mabye?
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Old Oct 31, 2005 | 08:30 AM
  #19 (permalink)  
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It could be the PCM. That would be my personal last resort. Check you PM, I can help you out with that if it's the problem. You can pick up a PCM from the junkyard for roughly $60.
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Old Oct 31, 2005 | 08:32 AM
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cool.i pmed u back
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