how to clean engine bay??
drives euro trash
Joined: Jun 2000
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Originally posted by Bill
Bleh, just open the hood, pour about a quarter of a jug of milk over the bay, and leave it out overnight. By morning the neighborhood cats will have licked it to a beautiful shine.
Bleh, just open the hood, pour about a quarter of a jug of milk over the bay, and leave it out overnight. By morning the neighborhood cats will have licked it to a beautiful shine.
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5 Foot Fury
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1. Cover all openings.
2. Tried Gunk Citrus Brite Engine Cleaner. NOT RECOMMENDED!
2. Gunk Foamy Engine Brite. Now this is the good stuff. Emptied the whole can on the engine, foaming up and coating everything I could get. Make sure to wipe the front fenders, wiper arms, headlights, and bumper with a wet paper towel, to get off any of the degreaser overspray.
3. Wait about 10-15 minutes, then hose the engine off with a garden hose and/or sprayer attachment. No pressure washing!
4. Simple Green degreaser/cleaner and a toothbrush. Poured some into a cup, and diluted 1:1 with water. Then went to town for 2 hours, scrubbing each component, hose, and section of the engine bay, as far as the toothbrush would reach. Prepare for back pain. Spray off each section as you go, so the Simple Green doesn't dry on it. Some people have problems with aluminum being etched by it. No problems here with the diluted mix.
5. Hose everything off, remove the covers, and drive it around to dry all the components.
6. Armor-All Tire Foam. I put maybe 1/3 of the can on the engine. It coats it pretty quickly and shines like a mofo. After spraying it on, rub all the hoses and plastic pieces to evenly coat them. I waited overnight before driving, but I'd say you could hit the road immediately.
2. Tried Gunk Citrus Brite Engine Cleaner. NOT RECOMMENDED!
2. Gunk Foamy Engine Brite. Now this is the good stuff. Emptied the whole can on the engine, foaming up and coating everything I could get. Make sure to wipe the front fenders, wiper arms, headlights, and bumper with a wet paper towel, to get off any of the degreaser overspray.
3. Wait about 10-15 minutes, then hose the engine off with a garden hose and/or sprayer attachment. No pressure washing!
4. Simple Green degreaser/cleaner and a toothbrush. Poured some into a cup, and diluted 1:1 with water. Then went to town for 2 hours, scrubbing each component, hose, and section of the engine bay, as far as the toothbrush would reach. Prepare for back pain. Spray off each section as you go, so the Simple Green doesn't dry on it. Some people have problems with aluminum being etched by it. No problems here with the diluted mix.
5. Hose everything off, remove the covers, and drive it around to dry all the components.
6. Armor-All Tire Foam. I put maybe 1/3 of the can on the engine. It coats it pretty quickly and shines like a mofo. After spraying it on, rub all the hoses and plastic pieces to evenly coat them. I waited overnight before driving, but I'd say you could hit the road immediately.
vw/audi
Joined: May 2002
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Foamy engine bright is the SHIT.. just make sure your car is cold and cover all electricalls before hand.
simple green is good if you want to work a little..
simple green is good if you want to work a little..
The Happy Mrs.
Joined: Nov 2003
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I do the same - the foamy engine bright works good. I spray down everything from the top and from undertneath. I let it sit for about 10 min. and rinse. Then I use armor all for the hoses and go back and wipe down all the chrome.
I do mine at least once a month, the longer you let dirt and oil sit, the more paint it eats away.
The simple green is good too but I think the engine bright is more forgiving when it comes to overspray.
I do mine at least once a month, the longer you let dirt and oil sit, the more paint it eats away.
The simple green is good too but I think the engine bright is more forgiving when it comes to overspray.
Can you spot me 20 cars?
Joined: Aug 2003
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Simple green wont hurt anything. I used to spray my sportbike which had polished frame and all from top tp bottom even paint. Came out clean. My civic ahas alot of polished stuff and i always use simple green.
Livin' Large
Joined: Nov 2003
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When I am getting cars ready for the lot, I use about two cans of Advance degreaser and then cut loose with a pressure washer. Yeah, occasionally I'll have to pull a distributor cap and dry it out, and I did have a talon I had to let dry out for about two days, and I did kill the optispark in my car, but considering I've done hundreds, the odds are still in my favor 
Main thing is to keep from forcing water into electrical connections and the distibutor. Afterwards, let it idle for a while with the hood popped (not all the way open) and the heat will dry it up. You can put a dressing on, but remember this will make it sticky and it will build up dirt alot faster when you use something like armor all. I would stay away from clearcoat, or any of the store bought engine coats because they turn yellow/brown and crack from the heat and once they do, they are really hard to get off. Note if it's an LT1, forget about getting water near it, that's how I killed my optispark.
Main thing is to keep from forcing water into electrical connections and the distibutor. Afterwards, let it idle for a while with the hood popped (not all the way open) and the heat will dry it up. You can put a dressing on, but remember this will make it sticky and it will build up dirt alot faster when you use something like armor all. I would stay away from clearcoat, or any of the store bought engine coats because they turn yellow/brown and crack from the heat and once they do, they are really hard to get off. Note if it's an LT1, forget about getting water near it, that's how I killed my optispark.
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