Opinions?
Just look in the 5.0 Mustang magazine. It is just the parts. Do the work yourself. Heck, you live right around the corner, I can lend a hand. The only thing you need is a decent block. Most machine shops will give you a motor if you pay for the machine work.
If you really have a wild hair, spend another $500 and build a 347.
Does your car need a new motor? A 306 really won't make any difference.
If you really have a wild hair, spend another $500 and build a 347.
Does your car need a new motor? A 306 really won't make any difference.
__________________
Beer. Now there's a temporary solution. --Homer Simpson
Beer. Now there's a temporary solution. --Homer Simpson
Last edited by catfish; Apr 6, 2003 at 05:35 PM.
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the old 347s had oil ring design. But they are much better now, But id go with a 331 myself. You can always do a motor yourself, just need a good donor shortblock with crank and rods. I got my block and crank for like $50, bought a set of recon rods with arp bolts fro $120. $300 in machine work on the block and crank, polishing, honing and just checking, no boring at all. $500 for an engine kit which came with pistsons, rings, gaskets, bearings, oil pump, timing chain. Assmeble yourself. Mines got 30k miles on it and it was just slapped together. Though its bound to blow up soon
Yep, just like Mars 302 says, they really don't have problems anymore. A 347 is a good choice if you plan to stay naturally aspirated. A lower compression 331 (8.5/1) is real nice if your future plans include a blower or turbo.
Here is an example - 331 w/ forged pistons, crank, rods - $2000. That will include your machine work, gaskets, bolts, etc. It gets a little more expensive if you add a windage tray and main support - around another $300.
GT40 steel heads - $400
E cam - $100
Kenne Bell blower $3000.
450 RWHP - Priceless.
Edit - I know this isn't a $1000 shortblock. It's real easy spending other people's money.
Anyway, look at www.jdsperformance.com
He is a real good guy with a shop in Orlando. You can pick up a balanced 331 or 347 (they are usually the same $) with good quality pieces (not all forged, but high nodular steel crank, stainless rods, forged pistons) for about $1100.
Again, think about your future needs. Some aluminum heads require special pistons. You want low compression is adding boost later.
A nice 331 making 9.5/1 compression with a nice cam, aluminum heads, and intake should make 350 hp.
Here is an example - 331 w/ forged pistons, crank, rods - $2000. That will include your machine work, gaskets, bolts, etc. It gets a little more expensive if you add a windage tray and main support - around another $300.
GT40 steel heads - $400
E cam - $100
Kenne Bell blower $3000.
450 RWHP - Priceless.
Edit - I know this isn't a $1000 shortblock. It's real easy spending other people's money.
Anyway, look at www.jdsperformance.com
He is a real good guy with a shop in Orlando. You can pick up a balanced 331 or 347 (they are usually the same $) with good quality pieces (not all forged, but high nodular steel crank, stainless rods, forged pistons) for about $1100.
Again, think about your future needs. Some aluminum heads require special pistons. You want low compression is adding boost later.
A nice 331 making 9.5/1 compression with a nice cam, aluminum heads, and intake should make 350 hp.
__________________
Beer. Now there's a temporary solution. --Homer Simpson
Beer. Now there's a temporary solution. --Homer Simpson
Last edited by catfish; Apr 7, 2003 at 05:29 AM.
One thing I did notice on the E-Bay add was the list of parts they say they used to get 360+ HP. The Wolverine 1087 is a split duration camshaft with .510/.534 lift not .514/.514. How trustworthy are these guys going to be when they don't even know the correct specs on the parts they are using?



