Serious 302 HELP !
How much damage can accure to a 302 with no carb that has been sitting in the rain for about a week or so. That and I need some advice on carboraters stock(or stuff I can find in a junkyard) and aftermarket. Because I got one I can buy from a friend for like 60 bucks. But I don't have money to get it rebuilt if it has serious damage. So I'mma need some serious help and advice. It's a 4 barrel setup so far as the carb goes with a new (or atleast it was a while ago) elberbrock intake manifold.
~Blackbob~
~Blackbob~
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91'MR2 - V6 project 3VZFE (feel free to ask me about it)
96 'Mustang GT
96 'Mustang GT
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The motor was in the rain ?
A junkyard carb is going to be more trouble than it is worth. There are so many variables to tunning a carb it is scary.
Just do not get a Edelbrock carb..
I have a friend in Plant City that can help with the carb stuff.
A junkyard carb is going to be more trouble than it is worth. There are so many variables to tunning a carb it is scary.
Just do not get a Edelbrock carb..
I have a friend in Plant City that can help with the carb stuff.
Originally posted by "FordMan"
The motor was in the rain ?
A junkyard carb is going to be more trouble than it is worth. There are so many variables to tunning a carb it is scary.
Just do not get a Edelbrock carb..
I have a friend in Plant City that can help with the carb stuff.
The motor was in the rain ?
A junkyard carb is going to be more trouble than it is worth. There are so many variables to tunning a carb it is scary.
Just do not get a Edelbrock carb..
I have a friend in Plant City that can help with the carb stuff.
__________________
91'MR2 - V6 project 3VZFE (feel free to ask me about it)
96 'Mustang GT
96 'Mustang GT
Well here's what some guys off of SRO suggested :
hmmm.... is the motor locked? (will it turn over?). remove all the spark plugs and flush the motor with kerosene. turn it over a few times. drain the oil. flush the cranckase (again, u can use kerosene). probably will need a rebuild anyway. if you dont want it i will buy it! what year is it?
Accent_tuner
ever take a look at your brake rotors after you don't drive a couple days....they're all rusted and stuff right?....cast iron(which the block is made out of) can oxidize(rust) very quick.....i'm far from an expert on this, but i'd bet that if you got water down inside the cylinder, you're kinda screwed.....if the walls aren't too damaged, it might still mess up the rings when you turn it over...it might still run, but i'm sure the performce has been decreased seriously......
Sniper
no problem, but read this
A little moisture might make it hard to start, but you need to pull ALL the spark plugs out and crank it over a few times. Here's why. Like most liquids, water is basically incompressible. If you have a lot of liquid in one or more of the cylinders and you try to start it, the piston is going to try to compress, unsuccessfully, this water. Something's going to give and it's probably going to be a rod, the starter, or the ring gear.
Check the oil and make sure there's no water in it. Pull the plugs, spray a bunch of WD40 in there, chill for a few minutes, and then spray some more in. Crank it over. Put the plugs back in and you're ready to go.
After you run it, check the oil. If it looks at all frothy, change it.
I doubt you did any serious damage.
fast928
hmmm.... is the motor locked? (will it turn over?). remove all the spark plugs and flush the motor with kerosene. turn it over a few times. drain the oil. flush the cranckase (again, u can use kerosene). probably will need a rebuild anyway. if you dont want it i will buy it! what year is it?
Accent_tuner
ever take a look at your brake rotors after you don't drive a couple days....they're all rusted and stuff right?....cast iron(which the block is made out of) can oxidize(rust) very quick.....i'm far from an expert on this, but i'd bet that if you got water down inside the cylinder, you're kinda screwed.....if the walls aren't too damaged, it might still mess up the rings when you turn it over...it might still run, but i'm sure the performce has been decreased seriously......
Sniper
no problem, but read this
A little moisture might make it hard to start, but you need to pull ALL the spark plugs out and crank it over a few times. Here's why. Like most liquids, water is basically incompressible. If you have a lot of liquid in one or more of the cylinders and you try to start it, the piston is going to try to compress, unsuccessfully, this water. Something's going to give and it's probably going to be a rod, the starter, or the ring gear.
Check the oil and make sure there's no water in it. Pull the plugs, spray a bunch of WD40 in there, chill for a few minutes, and then spray some more in. Crank it over. Put the plugs back in and you're ready to go.
After you run it, check the oil. If it looks at all frothy, change it.
I doubt you did any serious damage.
fast928
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91'MR2 - V6 project 3VZFE (feel free to ask me about it)
96 'Mustang GT
96 'Mustang GT
Fast928 is probably the closest...although I would change the oil anyway. Water is heavier than oil and will sit in the bottom of your pan. You won't know it until you fire the engine. Then it will mix with the oil greatly reducing its lubricating properties and you will toast your bearings in no time. ..not to mention cam bearings and valve train. It's really cheap insurance.
After only a week, I doubt you have anything more than surface rust in the cyls. My '64 Falcon sat for over a year with no carb (but it did have a hood) and it ran great after an initial oil change and a good WD40 bath in the jugs. Got about a cup and a half of water out first when I drained the oil.
After only a week, I doubt you have anything more than surface rust in the cyls. My '64 Falcon sat for over a year with no carb (but it did have a hood) and it ran great after an initial oil change and a good WD40 bath in the jugs. Got about a cup and a half of water out first when I drained the oil.
So in other words I don't have [glow=red]much to worry about in a sense. Basicly for starters change all the fluids then take some WD40 and spend some good quality time lubracating everything. Other then that did I miss anythng ?
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91'MR2 - V6 project 3VZFE (feel free to ask me about it)
96 'Mustang GT
96 'Mustang GT
Yeah, it's a dice roll but I think with only 1 weekwithout anything on the intake, things are in your favor. Of course, this says nothing as to what may or may not have been wrong with it before.
If it were me, I'd go for it but before I cranked it and after I changed the oil, I'd pull the distributor and spin the oil pump shaft with an electric drill to get the good oil flowin good. Put the distributer back in, leave all the plugs out, pull the coil wire and crank the motor to blow out any water or excess WD40 that might be in the cylinderws. Hook it all back up and fire it up. Run it for a few minutes and change the oil and filter AGAIN to make sure all the water is out. Cheap insurance.
If it were me, I'd go for it but before I cranked it and after I changed the oil, I'd pull the distributor and spin the oil pump shaft with an electric drill to get the good oil flowin good. Put the distributer back in, leave all the plugs out, pull the coil wire and crank the motor to blow out any water or excess WD40 that might be in the cylinderws. Hook it all back up and fire it up. Run it for a few minutes and change the oil and filter AGAIN to make sure all the water is out. Cheap insurance.
After hearing what was at the time [glow=cyan]GOOD[/glow] news. I was told the other day that it could have been sitting there for longer like 4 or 5 months. So its turning out to be a stiff job. That's friends for yah. I can't get a straight answer out of them for anything. Any suggestions ?
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91'MR2 - V6 project 3VZFE (feel free to ask me about it)
96 'Mustang GT
96 'Mustang GT
Cool. OK, when you say it's been sitting without a carb on it, are you saying it was in the car, no carb but the hood was on and closed or it was on a stand and under a stand or it was on the ground in the middle of the yard sucking down sprinkler water?
If the hood was on the car and there was no direct access for water, I wouldn't worry about it too much. Like I said earlier, my '64 Falcon sat for over a year. It did have some water in the oil pan but I did what I outlined to you and it was fine. For the most part, any water that gets into the cyls will drain into the pan past the rings. You may get some surface rust but just like surface fust on your brake rotors, t ain't not thang. If you get pitting, that's another story..
Depending on the severity of exposure to water, you might need to pull the heads and inspect the cylinder walls and even do a little honing.
If the hood was on the car and there was no direct access for water, I wouldn't worry about it too much. Like I said earlier, my '64 Falcon sat for over a year. It did have some water in the oil pan but I did what I outlined to you and it was fine. For the most part, any water that gets into the cyls will drain into the pan past the rings. You may get some surface rust but just like surface fust on your brake rotors, t ain't not thang. If you get pitting, that's another story..
Depending on the severity of exposure to water, you might need to pull the heads and inspect the cylinder walls and even do a little honing.


