Just picked up a 2003 F150 4 door Lariat Triton 4.6

Really enjoying the truck thus far

Before I get too many more miles on it, I want to do some maintenance to it. Powder its nose, so to speak. Handle anything that might need attention, get all the maintenance done. That way, I know the truck is 100%.

But, there's a slight problem, I have Zero experience with Ford Trucks.
The closest experience I have is riding in my buddy's Explorer a few times.
Other than the basics, like plugs, fluids, filters, I don't really know where to start.

So, I'm hoping to enlist one of you Ford Guru's to help go over my truck with a fine tooth comb and help identify any potential issues.
(no problem compensating for the time)

I'm completely open to any advice I can get. Anything from what spark plugs to use, to what fluids, to things I should check out/test, to common issues to keep an eye out for, all the way to good advice on some goodies.

Greatly appreciate it.

 

3.9 , 4.6, 5.4?

 

my bad, it is the 4.6

 

You dont have to be a Ford specialist to understand regular maintenance of a vehicle. This applies to any and all vehicles.

This is just a bit of advise that you can use how ever you see fit. Improvise on it or improve on it.

The first thing I do when I buy a new vehicle is change the oil and put in an oil filter of my choice. Even if the oil looks clean and the dealer said they just serviced it, you really dont know if they didnt just add a few quarts and cleaned up the filter. This will give you peace of mind that its been done properly and get you started on a proper oil change schedule. I change the oil in my truck every 3000 miles like clockwork. Sometimes its done sooner,.. but rarely does it exceed 3000 miles between oil changes. Even when using synthetic and synthetic blends. Some people like to change oil at 5000 or 10,000 miles because they drive mostly highway miles. This is a routine you can also follow. How ever,.. I drive my vehicles from 30k miles to well over 200k miles an rarely do I have mechanical failures from worn out internals due to improper oil changes. I have a 2004 Chevy Silverado now that had 42k when I bought it and now has 167k miles on it. Still drives and rides like new. I have spent considerable expense on its upkeep though.

The next thing I do after buying a vehicle is pull all the wheels off, pull the hubs/axles out and inspect wheel bearings. On sealed hubs you cant do this but on real wheel drive if it has 100k+ miles on it then the rear end is more then likely past due for service if the previous owner never changed the fluid seals and bearings. Even if the rear end rides smooth with no funny noises,.. this is a preventative procedure that should be done between 100k - 120- miles. Pull the axle seals and bearings, replace them. $11 - $15 for both sides from most parts stores. Then change the fluid and fill it properly. If it has a limited slip, make sure to use some kind of friction modifier. Usually in a tube that gets added with the rear end oil. I dump the entire tube in the rear first and then fill it the rest of the way with rear end oil.

With the front wheels on and on jack stands, grab the top and bottom of each wheel and check for play. If you feel a popping or clunking,.. the bearings will need to be replaced before they do any damage to the spindles. This is another over looked service that people dont pay attention to until it starts making noise. At 100k miles they should be replaced regardless. Grab the wheel from the sides and and check for left/right play. You will have some from the steering lock holding the column,.. but if you look at the tie rod ends and ball joints and the rubber around them is dry rotting/rotted/greese seeping from them, then they are in need of replacement. I replace my tie rods ends at 75k miles and ball joints at 100k. Inspect the upper and lower control arm bushings. If they squeek or look dry,.. usually at around 8 - 10 yrs old they are at the end of their service life. You can get much more than 100k miles out of bushings. They are usually something that just wear due to age and corrosion unless the truck has been handled roughly,.. then they may wear out more quickly.

Also,.. between 100k - 120k if the front rotors havent been replaced then they are due. Rear drums/disc fall into the same category. Drums and rotors can usually be turned on a lath. A shop can measure and tell you if they are salvageable or not.

While under the truck check for anything leaking,.. oil pan, tranny pan, rear main seals etc etc.

Another good preventative maintenance procedure is to drain and flush the tranny fluid. Since most trucks are autos,.. this applies for auto transmissions. You dont need to take it to a shop to have done. This can be done at home with some hose and a 5 gallon bucket. My method is to drop the pan and dump the fluid into a drain pan. Change the tranny filter while the pan is off. Clean up the surfaces, put a new pan gasket on and snug up the tranny pan. Pull the tranny cooler line from the cooler or radiator, put about 3 - 4ft of 9/16 hose on it and run the end of it into a 5 gallon bucket. Now start dumping tranny fluid into the fill tube until it shows full (With engine off). (This works better if you buy tranny fluid in the gallon jugs. You will need about 5 - 6 gallons to completely flush out the torq converter and lines. ) Now get your tranny fluid ready to dump into the fill neck,.. start the motor and the tranny pump will start dumping fluid into the bucket. Depending on what type of fluid you use,.. it should be a dark color. Keep pouring fluid down the fill neck until the fluid coming out of the rubber hose looks bright and clean. Shut off the motor. Reconnect the tranny line to the cooler/radiator. Start the motor back up and start filling the tranny until its full. You have now flushed your own tranny. This should be done every 30k - 35k miles. Most people never do it. Some vehicles go 150k miles on their original factory tranny and rear end fluids,. and then cause major problems after things start gumming up,.. especially with electronic transmissions.

Once all fluids, brakes and the suspension are to my satisfaction I go under the hood. I look for any lines, hoses, vacuum, wires, connections, sensors etc that looks dry, cracking or in general bad shape. Some vacuum lines like to look good on the outside,.. but then collapse on itself once the motor is running creating a blockage for what ever needs the vacuum/vacuum signal. GM EFI still uses a MAP sensor that relies on a vacuum signal for example. Once a truck gets between 7 - 10 yrs old,.. most of these lines should be ready to be replaced and should be inspected on a regular basis or just replaced for peace of mind.

Its not cheap,.. but the truck will last a long time if you take care of it. Taking care of it means more than driving easy and changing the oil. It means staying on top of preventative maintenance like I have described. For example,.. I recently spent $400 for new shocks on my truck. I then spent another $370 for suspension and brakes. Another $40 for misc hoses and line. And all this within the last 4 months. I plan to keep driving my truck well beyond 250k. I enjoy it and its a good truck. Take care of yours and it should last you a good while.

Hurst

 

Actually, I put 240K on one of those, they are bulletproof, at 120K I changed out the timing chains with a decent aftermarket set, at 100k I changed plugs and wires (although I don't think your has wires, mine was a 97) along with the fuel filter. at 230K I changed the timing chain set, but really didn't need to since I bought a decent set to begin with and the plugs and wires again. Somewhere along 180k I changed an alternator and starter.
The only issue I ever had with it was that it would warp the rotors about every 6 months, (I did a lot of race trailer towing) so use the factory, or decent aftermarket rotors, they are thicker.
Just use decent fuel, I also added some Lucas additive to the oil every change after 75K and used Valvoline high mileage oil
That was it, I finally traded it in last year, it was a sad day

 

thanks Hurst.
that's the kind of info I'm looking for, but more specific.
That was all really good info and things I apply to my other cars.

I guess I've just pysch myself out because it is different than anything I'm used to. I come from 240sx's and 300zx's. I know what spark plugs are best for those engines. I know what aftermarket parts are better than OEM and vis-versa. I know what is wrong with one of those by the noises they make.
But I don't have a known to be good and healthy F150 to compare this one to.
It drives nicely, no rattles, I can't get the wheels to wobble at all. No squeaks or anything. So to me, it seems like it is in good shape. But then again, I don't know what "good shape" is supposed to look, sound, run like, when it comes to Ford's, let alone this truck.

Make sense?

 

I used to change the oil every 3500 miles, although, if you use a synthetic, it could probably go longer, if there is an area to keep an eye on, it would probably be the timing chains, those engine are interference so if the chain goes, you're screwed. Like I said, I changed them at 120K, but I used a good set of aftermarket chains/ gears and would not have to do it again for probably another, 160-170?.

 

On the 03 trucks with the 4.6 the COPs (Coil Over plug) (The same as the coil packs on the 97 - 99 models but each plug now has its own dedicated coil eliminating the need for plug wires. ) are prone to issues. Its not a common thing.,. I have heard of guys going 100 - 150k with no problems at all. Or someone like my father inlaw having issues every other month with them needing to replace one or two. And that was on 2 different Fords. One was a 02 E150 with the 5.4 the other was an 01 F150 with the 4.6.

Like blacksheep was saying. Keep tabs on the timing chains and guides/tensioners. They are longer than regular pushrod engine timing chains and IMO see more stress as a result. I had over 200k on the guides on my 96 GT. But did have one of the tensioners collapse on me. They fill with oil and push out on the guides to keep tension on the chains. Its kind of like a lifter collapsing. Not very common,.. but does happen from time to time. There are 2 tensioners.

The IAC get dirty and the springs like to stick in them. Usually a simple removal and cleaning does the trick. Symptoms include erratic or hunting idle to sometimes extended rpms when coming down from cruising speed. Not always noticeable with an automatic. You would notice it more with a manual.

Just keep a regular maintenance routine, keep an eye on the obvious things and the truck will last you a very long time. Its not uncommon for these motors to see 300 - 400k miles.

Hurst

 

Only thing I know that really kills the mod motors is not changing the oil. I've seen some heads that just had goop everywhere that wasn't coming off and gums up the engine. Other then good oil/filter these motors tend to be solid is stock trim.

 

Sway bar end link, and upper and lower ball joints areknow for going out on thouse trucks, but if it it has aftermarket ball joints in it already they should have a grease zert in them, just grease them up every other oil change.