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5 lug adapters

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Old Feb 20, 2011 | 05:25 PM
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You know, now that you mention it, I have a set of lincoln front spindles/rotors/ calipers lying around here someplace. If you're interested, are they worth 50 bucks to you?
I owned a 93 4 banger and was scrounging parts.
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Old Feb 21, 2011 | 03:38 AM
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Originally Posted by harold harper
dude i have been doing five lug swaos for years.i"m telling you that s/n95 axle is no stronger then the ranger axles.same shit,same material.ones wider then the other.people have been doing the ranger axle swaps for years.unless he is make 400+ on slicks he will be just fine.plus this kid is most likely on a budget like the rest of use.
your right they are as strong, but I just want him to know that the axle has been stressed in one way, now you want to put it on something else and spin it in reverse with twice as much power... Its not going to last if he wants to eventually put power out. Do it right the first time or dont do it at all some say.. For a budget I would do the LRS swap. It even comes with everything you need down to new diff fluids.
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Old Feb 21, 2011 | 04:30 AM
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Originally Posted by 1BADP71
your right they are as strong, but I just want him to know that the axle has been stressed in one way, now you want to put it on something else and spin it in reverse with twice as much power... Its not going to last if he wants to eventually put power out. Do it right the first time or dont do it at all some say.. For a budget I would do the LRS swap. It even comes with everything you need down to new diff fluids.

Ranger axles are just fine. They will send his fox down the track doing 12's - 11's just fine. No worse than stock axles.

blacksheep-1:

The Lincoln hub does work fine,.. but will limit some of the wheels he can use. The hub is larger will protrude through where the center cap is on many SN95 specific wheels. And just so happens that those are the most popular and affordable of the 5 lug wheels.

Wes:

The entire swap can be done in under 2 hours from start to finish. The rear axles/drum are the easiest and takes longer to fill the drum back up with oil than it did to swap the axles. Once you pull the rear cover off there is a small bolt that holds the center pin in place. Remove the pin and push the axles in toward each other to gain access to the C-clips. Rotate the axle and they should just fall out. If not a little tap/prying with a flat screw driver or punch will free them from the axles. The axles just slide out,.. new axles slide back in, ranger 5 lug drums slide over in place of the 4 lug drums and fit like they were meant to be there. Reverse the process to put the clips back in,.. viola. 15 - 20 mins at the most for the rear end.

The front takes a little longer because your swapping brake lines/bleeding the brake and depending on which hub/spindle and calipers you use will need an adapter for the brake lines up front. The SN95 spindle/hub will guarantee wheel fitment. You will need to extend and adjust the tie rod ends to align the front end,.. when doing the SN95 spindles the wheels will be pigeon toed at each other when complete. Just adjust the tie rod ends to adjust the alignment. I just measure the front and rear of the wheels until they are even. That will be close enough until I get it to an alignment shop.

Converting to 5 lug is one of the easiest conversions you can do if keeping the rear drums. Converting to rear discs will require a bit more work and parts. But still very doable.

Hurst
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Old Feb 21, 2011 | 05:44 AM
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Originally Posted by Hurstmeister
The front takes a little longer because your swapping brake lines/bleeding the brake and depending on which hub/spindle and calipers you use will need an adapter for the brake lines up front. The SN95 spindle/hub will guarantee wheel fitment. You will need to extend and adjust the tie rod ends to align the front end,.. when doing the SN95 spindles the wheels will be pigeon toed at each other when complete. Just adjust the tie rod ends to adjust the alignment. I just measure the front and rear of the wheels until they are even. That will be close enough until I get it to an alignment shop.

Hurst
Why so much work for the front ? I just bought some 5 lug lincoln mkVII rotors and slapped them in with the same mustang bearings. tq'd to mustang spec. didn't change any lines, no alignment problems. (same way Harold suggested)

He has a GT so it should work, I wouldn't change spindles unless he has a 4 cyl.

Last edited by 1BADP71; Feb 21, 2011 at 05:48 AM.
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Old Feb 21, 2011 | 01:39 PM
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Originally Posted by 1BADP71
Why so much work for the front ? I just bought some 5 lug lincoln mkVII rotors and slapped them in with the same mustang bearings. tq'd to mustang spec. didn't change any lines, no alignment problems. (same way Harold suggested)

He has a GT so it should work, I wouldn't change spindles unless he has a 4 cyl.
he was say if you use the 1995-04 stuff you will need brake lines,etc,etc......I like s/n95 brakes alot better,but if on a budget mark 7 rotors work good too.
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Old Feb 21, 2011 | 01:58 PM
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Originally Posted by 1BADP71
Why so much work for the front ? I just bought some 5 lug lincoln mkVII rotors and slapped them in with the same mustang bearings. tq'd to mustang spec. didn't change any lines, no alignment problems. (same way Harold suggested)

He has a GT so it should work, I wouldn't change spindles unless he has a 4 cyl.
The Mark 7 will work but it will limit your wheel choices because of the size of the hub. Not all wheels (Particularly SN95 wheels) will clear the hub and dust cap.

I dont have any personal experience with the Mark VII set up,.. but I read a couple posts on Corral where guys couldnt mount Bullet or Cobra-R wheels because the hub was too large and the dust cap protruded through where the center cap needed to be. SN95 spindle/hub set up wont have this problem.

As far as cost,.. I dont see where either would cost more than the other unless he goes for 96 - 04 Cobra set up. The SN95 GT brake are fine for a fox,.. and if he can get the 99 - 04 GT set up they have the better PBR calipers. Same as the Cobra set up but smaller rotor so he can still run 15" wheels up front.

Swapping out the spindles is really simple. Put a floor jack under the a-arm and raise the jack until its almost supporting the weight. Bust the tie rod end loose. Take the nut off the ball joint and break it loose. Remove the caliper from the spindle. Undo the 2 bolts that connect the strut to the spindle. Pop the dust cap off,.. remove the cotter pin and center nut,.. pull the hub off the spindle. I dont know how the other cars are,.. but on my 93 I couldnt pull the spindle off the ball joint with out removing the rotor/hub off the spindle. The dust shield and rotor blocked it from coming off the ball joint. The SN95 hub/spindle doesnt have this problem. Its really straight forward and simple to do. You really dont need any real expertise to do the swap. The first time I did it I pretty much breezed through it.

I'm using the 13" Cobra set up on the front of mine,.. I wont be able to run any 15 or 16 inch wheels at all on the front.

Hurst
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Originally Posted by Tiffiny
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Last edited by Hurstmeister; Feb 21, 2011 at 06:35 PM.
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Old Feb 21, 2011 | 05:50 PM
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Hurst is right as usual.... The hub on the new rotors from the MKVII are huge and trying to find a centercap to go over it not an easy task, your limited on wheel choices just as you were if you were staying with 4 lug. Your best bet is SN95 FRONT Brake assembly with hubs and spindles.
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