Titanium connecting rods?
Daddy-O
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 3,300
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I'd go with aluminum rods, no need for titanium rods @ 1300hp.
Titanium valve train I would go with (locks, keepers, valves, etc).
With the service you will be performing on that motor and the intervals in which you will be doing so (very regularly) I don't really see the benefit to the titanium rods..
Lightweight billet crank, alum rods, custom forged pistons, titanium valve train.. you'll be golden..
Can I borrow a signed blank check?
Titanium valve train I would go with (locks, keepers, valves, etc).
With the service you will be performing on that motor and the intervals in which you will be doing so (very regularly) I don't really see the benefit to the titanium rods..
Lightweight billet crank, alum rods, custom forged pistons, titanium valve train.. you'll be golden..
Can I borrow a signed blank check?
Daddy-O
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 3,300
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Originally posted by "slobra281"
Billet rods will do just fine. Go on Corral.net and PM Boss330(Al Papito). He has built a couple of 5.4 motors. He's gone with billet rods in his motor and he spins it to 7k all the time.
Billet rods will do just fine. Go on Corral.net and PM Boss330(Al Papito). He has built a couple of 5.4 motors. He's gone with billet rods in his motor and he spins it to 7k all the time.
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 64
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Originally posted by "FordMan"
Can't wait to see the 1,300 + rwhp out of the mod motor. That should put you ahead of just about all of the other people running high powered mod motors in FFW and NMRA
Can't wait to see the 1,300 + rwhp out of the mod motor. That should put you ahead of just about all of the other people running high powered mod motors in FFW and NMRA
Originally posted by "FordMan"
Try almost $5K for a set of titanium rods ! :o
Try almost $5K for a set of titanium rods ! :o
Guest
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superdave: Not to question your goal but I think your trying the impossible. You can't build a race motor and expect it to hold up on the street duty and vise versa. The tolerances for a race motor is going to be very tight and cause items to wear quickly where as for a street motor you tend to allow more gap in the rings etc. that will fatigue fast under heavy load.
There's a reason people like David King and Tim Palmer don't drive there cars on the street. I guess if your pockets are deep enough you can afford to rebuild often them maybe you can get by. Other things that come to mind is what type of tranny are you going to use that will hold 1200rwhp and still be useable on the street? Also the suspension setup for a car at that level isn't going to play well with public roads.
I'm not trying to shoot you down, just wondering if you thought the whole thing through and what your really trying to accomplish. I wish you all the luck regardless of which route you go, just don't set yourself up for dissapointment.
There's a reason people like David King and Tim Palmer don't drive there cars on the street. I guess if your pockets are deep enough you can afford to rebuild often them maybe you can get by. Other things that come to mind is what type of tranny are you going to use that will hold 1200rwhp and still be useable on the street? Also the suspension setup for a car at that level isn't going to play well with public roads.
I'm not trying to shoot you down, just wondering if you thought the whole thing through and what your really trying to accomplish. I wish you all the luck regardless of which route you go, just don't set yourself up for dissapointment.
Thread Starter
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Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 64
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Originally posted by "Strokd85"
I'd go with aluminum rods, no need for titanium rods @ 1300hp.
Titanium valve train I would go with (locks, keepers, valves, etc).
With the service you will be performing on that motor and the intervals in which you will be doing so (very regularly) I don't really see the benefit to the titanium rods..
Lightweight billet crank, alum rods, custom forged pistons, titanium valve train.. you'll be golden..
Can I borrow a signed blank check?
I'd go with aluminum rods, no need for titanium rods @ 1300hp.
Titanium valve train I would go with (locks, keepers, valves, etc).
With the service you will be performing on that motor and the intervals in which you will be doing so (very regularly) I don't really see the benefit to the titanium rods..
Lightweight billet crank, alum rods, custom forged pistons, titanium valve train.. you'll be golden..
Can I borrow a signed blank check?
)
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 64
Likes: 0
Originally posted by "The^Thief"
superdave: Not to question your goal but I think your trying the impossible. You can't build a race motor and expect it to hold up on the street duty and vise versa. The tolerances for a race motor is going to be very tight and cause items to wear quickly where as for a street motor you tend to allow more gap in the rings etc. that will fatigue fast under heavy load.
There's a reason people like David King and Tim Palmer don't drive there cars on the street. I guess if your pockets are deep enough you can afford to rebuild often them maybe you can get by. Other things that come to mind is what type of tranny are you going to use that will hold 1200rwhp and still be useable on the street? Also the suspension setup for a car at that level isn't going to play well with public roads.
I'm not trying to shoot you down, just wondering if you thought the whole thing through and what your really trying to accomplish. I wish you all the luck regardless of which route you go, just don't set yourself up for dissapointment.
superdave: Not to question your goal but I think your trying the impossible. You can't build a race motor and expect it to hold up on the street duty and vise versa. The tolerances for a race motor is going to be very tight and cause items to wear quickly where as for a street motor you tend to allow more gap in the rings etc. that will fatigue fast under heavy load.
There's a reason people like David King and Tim Palmer don't drive there cars on the street. I guess if your pockets are deep enough you can afford to rebuild often them maybe you can get by. Other things that come to mind is what type of tranny are you going to use that will hold 1200rwhp and still be useable on the street? Also the suspension setup for a car at that level isn't going to play well with public roads.
I'm not trying to shoot you down, just wondering if you thought the whole thing through and what your really trying to accomplish. I wish you all the luck regardless of which route you go, just don't set yourself up for dissapointment.
i have thought of that, and realize that im not going to be able to drive this thing on a daily basis. The transmission will be an upgraded T-56 from D&D (TDC made a 1300rwhp TT 351 Saleen and used this). driveshaft will be carbon fibre from PST. Suspension is still in debate, but will probably be a full griggs front and rear GR40 RR/AX setup (Griggs told me that a car with this setup runs 7's on the 1/4). Chassis will be a Dragin 10 or 12pt cage. Again, the 1300 hp is at conservative max boost, i hope to be pushing closer to 500 on the street with the boost down. If i can't get that low, i'll put on a smaller turbo.
Hopefully when the car starts coming apart i will be able to find an affordable T-top fox (always wanted one of these) to drive around. it will be getting the 99 motor currently in the 98 car.
Dave
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In regards to the rods I've heard stay away from aluminum rods for boosted applications. I don't remember the exact reason for that being true, could be the additional heat or the additional stress from the high compression under boost they don't like. However for N/A applications they are suppose be the cats meow.
I would go with billet steel if it were my motor. The engine will spin up plenty quick with the type of torque the turbo will allow you. If anything get the piston weight reduced in order to acheive your high rpm desire.
I would go with billet steel if it were my motor. The engine will spin up plenty quick with the type of torque the turbo will allow you. If anything get the piston weight reduced in order to acheive your high rpm desire.
