I know what your saying. The car looks like it has leaf springs with caltracs.

Wouldnt it be better if the front end rose higher and put more weight to the rear. Where the rear end plants down not raises?

Wonder is the rear shocks are acting like 90/10's not 50/50's. Meaning it allows it to raise quickly and settle down slowly

 

Look at the previous picture

Picasa Web Albums - IRELA CUETO-PALUMBO - Southern Buic...

Car is slammed low..

 

Getting the car to wheelstand wastes energy. It also wastes time. I think if the car works well now, then leave it alone. Sure it looks a bit goofy all hunched up like that, but if it sticks, it stays, in my book.

 

Noted.

Just never seen another Mustang act in this fashion. Or is it just me?

Many many years ago at the 2am races.. I remember this 65 Mustang.. coupe.. 4 sp car with 4.56's.. It would leave the hole at 7k rpms and the whole car raised like this.. every gear shift it would pop up and down.. car worked..

FFW 30 years and here mine is doing it.

 

I'm going to say you don't see too many mustangs like this because most are 5 speeds, or if they are auto's use a trans brake. It looks like you're still foot braking it.

 

Figure this one.. powerglide with transbrake.

That picture is car leaving at 8 PSI of the transbrake.

Cant hold(footbrake) that kind of boost on 4 wheel disc's

 

Was that picture as you were staged, or as the car was leaving?

 

When I stage and I preload(gas and brake at the same time) the suspension raises a little.. when I let go of the button.. it pops up. That picture is leaving on green.

The more I footbrake the car to stall it up.. the higher the whole car lifts. So if I fottbrake to zero PSI.. it raises a little.. I go to 2-3 PSI.. it raises a lot.

maybe this is happening because while staging the suspension is getting too much preload? maybe I need to try and light both bulbs.. then lock the brake without any preload.. then see how it reacts?

Just never been a fan of not having any tension on the driveline when using a clutch or transbrake..

 

You don't know your car very well bro, Your still stuck in G body land

 

The rising you see is a side effect of having a lot of antisquat. Like someone said the separation from the tire/fender means the tires are being forced into the pavement (good thing). The downside of that is the higher the anitsquat you have, the quicker it unloads. You want your AS (antisquat) to be between 100-125%.

I think you need to take some measurements of your control arms. The lower bar should almost be parallel to the ground. A slight incline from the rear mounting point to the chassis side is fine. But if you have a difference of over 1.5-1.75" chances are you have a high AS. SSM bars are notorious for that...and if your torque boxes are not reinforced, its hell on them. Plot the suspension and plug in the numbers in a IC calculator and see where you're at. Radials do like a higher AS and short IC. Slicks like a longer IC and a lower AS (but at least at 100%). Hope this helps.

-Mark

EDIT: holy shit...if thats his lower bar then what I said is right. Yank those bars out and put in a good LCA. Or at least put the rear mounting point on the top hole.