GT40P worth fixing up?
Hey all, I bought a set of GT40P heads about last year, Came of an explorer I believe. Im just wondering if there worth the investment to fix them up or sell and purchase a different set of heads. They're in pretty rough shape, definitely need to be machined, I would throw new springs, valves, and rods on em ( I think thats all I need?).
After estimating the costs it would be smarter to get a more flowing set of heads...right???
By the way, I dont know if it matters, but I have Cobra ( 93) Intake manifolds.
Let me know what you mustang geniuses think.
After estimating the costs it would be smarter to get a more flowing set of heads...right???
By the way, I dont know if it matters, but I have Cobra ( 93) Intake manifolds.
Let me know what you mustang geniuses think.
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Stay Fresh ... As GOLD
Stay Fresh ... As GOLD
I have GT40P heads on my coupe, Stock bottom end, Cobra cam and rockers, Explorer intake and 70mm TB and so far my best 1/4 mile time is 13.6 @ 98mph on bone stock 4cyl suspension.
Best time I ever got on the factory E7's and factory cam was 14.7 @ 96mph.
Best time I ever got on the factory E7's and factory cam was 14.7 @ 96mph.
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-Miles.

Throw em into the river?! haha....all because of sparkplug placement?
Miles, do you like the heads or are you regretting buying them. Did you buy them ready to bolt em on?
Miles, do you like the heads or are you regretting buying them. Did you buy them ready to bolt em on?
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Stay Fresh ... As GOLD
Stay Fresh ... As GOLD
Last edited by cuddy87; Oct 28, 2010 at 04:50 PM.
I had some GT40P heads done up by a guy named Thumper. I was going to use them for a project that went away and still have the heads.
But generally, with GT40 heads once you have them machined, ported, new springs and guide plates are not worth the investment compared to a decent aluminum head.
Best thing is to find some dummy that already did all the work to them and buy them cheap.
But generally, with GT40 heads once you have them machined, ported, new springs and guide plates are not worth the investment compared to a decent aluminum head.
Best thing is to find some dummy that already did all the work to them and buy them cheap.
__________________
General Stonewall Jackson has been quoted saying that when the time of war comes,
“My advice is to draw the sword and throw away the scabbard".
General Stonewall Jackson has been quoted saying that when the time of war comes,
“My advice is to draw the sword and throw away the scabbard".
Also, those times were with a stock geared rearend, driveshaft, pulleys, air intake (with the crinkle intake tube), mechanical fan, stock injectors and maf. With a 1.85 short time and a 13.6 1/4. Its by far from fast, but I accept that as a respectable budget car. If someone disagrees please say so, I'm always looking to improve with what I have and by no means think I'm a big hitter with these mods.
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-Miles.

Completely true. Had I not got them for a great price I would have went with an AFR or TFS head. I made that mistake with a set of Vortec 906 heads, by the time I got done with machining, seals, springs, retainers, and locks, I spent the same as I would have on a set of aftermarket aluminum heads.
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-Miles.

I have a set I got new from Tri-State Cyl Head. $585 delivered. New castings too. Stainless valves, 1.94 I, 1.54 E &. 550 dual springs.
I have ran them for 3+ years. Matched to the right combo and a power adder, they will make enough power to break a stock block!
I made 486 rwhp with no tune and 17 lbs of boost from a Novi 2000.
I have ran them for 3+ years. Matched to the right combo and a power adder, they will make enough power to break a stock block!
I made 486 rwhp with no tune and 17 lbs of boost from a Novi 2000.
Last edited by 500HPLX; Oct 29, 2010 at 06:29 AM.


