Who Has a power adder?
Originally posted by "crx89si"
i got you beat i have 156k on my 14b powered dsm it hold 15psi bery good for being so old. i need to race you 100k+ turbo battle. bring it.
i got you beat i have 156k on my 14b powered dsm it hold 15psi bery good for being so old. i need to race you 100k+ turbo battle. bring it.
Originally posted by "400HP930"
Damn, thats pretty good. If you want to have a battle of the geriatric turbos I am going to the FSF autocross this sunday if you would like to come out and compete.
Originally Posted by crx89si
i got you beat i have 156k on my 14b powered dsm it hold 15psi bery good for being so old. i need to race you 100k+ turbo battle. bring it.
you gont get your car worked on at european performance in St. Pete do you?
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1995 BMW 540/6 - The Track Rat
2009 Ford Escape - Stock Toy Hauler/DD
2007 Lexus RX350 - Stock Wife Hauler
2009 Kosmic - The Toy - 125cc Vortex Super Rok TAG, (For Sale - $2800)
2007 Intrepid Silverstone - The Faster Toy - CR125 6-Speed
1995 BMW 540/6 - The Track Rat
2009 Ford Escape - Stock Toy Hauler/DD
2007 Lexus RX350 - Stock Wife Hauler
2009 Kosmic - The Toy - 125cc Vortex Super Rok TAG, (For Sale - $2800)
2007 Intrepid Silverstone - The Faster Toy - CR125 6-Speed
10psi max is all that is aloud but, you know how it goes, I'am curious I wonder if 12psi will break a piston? Oh well if it does guess it could use a rebuild sooner or later!
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Here is a good rule of thumb equation for calculating how boost will effect things such as the stock normally asperated (SNA) compression ratio and power.
Boosted-Value = (Boost+14.7) * Flow Efficiency * SNA-Value / 14.7
Flow efficiency will vary depending on such things as cams, valves per cylinder. intercooler, plumbing, etc but a good rule of thump to start with is 0.8 (80% efficiency).
When it comes to compression ratios there is only so high you can go before a usable mixture will spontaneously combust creating detonation issues (which in a highly compressed motor will usually result in destroyed pistons and related problems). You will usually never want to go over an adjusted 13/1 compression ratio. This is the reason why a turbo or blower on a car with 10/1 compression should not be set to more than 8-10 PSI.
When it comes to power an engine is usually designed with a 4/1 safety factor. This means that an engine designed to put out 150 will usually self destruct if it ever has enough fuel and air crammed into it to produce around 600. You can usually safely double the power output of your engine and still get a reasonable amount of lifetime out of the motor assuming you don't overheat or overstress any critical components.
Assuming your compression is low enough to go this high, the power doubling boost is between 20 and 22 PSI depending on your engines flow efficiency.
You can sit around with a calulator and play with this for a while so you can see what your current limits are, and when you rebuild the engine how low you might want to set your base compression since that is usually the critical factor that will determine how much boost you can run and how much power it will get you.
Boosted-Value = (Boost+14.7) * Flow Efficiency * SNA-Value / 14.7
Flow efficiency will vary depending on such things as cams, valves per cylinder. intercooler, plumbing, etc but a good rule of thump to start with is 0.8 (80% efficiency).
When it comes to compression ratios there is only so high you can go before a usable mixture will spontaneously combust creating detonation issues (which in a highly compressed motor will usually result in destroyed pistons and related problems). You will usually never want to go over an adjusted 13/1 compression ratio. This is the reason why a turbo or blower on a car with 10/1 compression should not be set to more than 8-10 PSI.
When it comes to power an engine is usually designed with a 4/1 safety factor. This means that an engine designed to put out 150 will usually self destruct if it ever has enough fuel and air crammed into it to produce around 600. You can usually safely double the power output of your engine and still get a reasonable amount of lifetime out of the motor assuming you don't overheat or overstress any critical components.
Assuming your compression is low enough to go this high, the power doubling boost is between 20 and 22 PSI depending on your engines flow efficiency.
You can sit around with a calulator and play with this for a while so you can see what your current limits are, and when you rebuild the engine how low you might want to set your base compression since that is usually the critical factor that will determine how much boost you can run and how much power it will get you.
So I guess I shouldn't push the envelope with 12psi?
How much hp gained per pound of boost on a good set up?
Do you think 2psi will make that big of a difference if 10psi is handled flawlessly?
How much hp gained per pound of boost on a good set up?
Do you think 2psi will make that big of a difference if 10psi is handled flawlessly?
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well i just got my 16g turbo and gst downpipe for the galant, i gotta get the exhaust manifold and injectors and oil lines , fpr, and all that garbage and ill be in here with you guys
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Clay
1999 Mitsubishi Galant - Evo4 4g63t Powered
1991 Mitsubishi Galant VR4 303/2000 - sold
"I'm so JDM I have SARS"
Clay
1999 Mitsubishi Galant - Evo4 4g63t Powered
1991 Mitsubishi Galant VR4 303/2000 - sold
"I'm so JDM I have SARS"


