Overheating
Check the plug on the fan. The 94-95 cars had a big problem with the plug melting... The fan will start to come on, then the plug gets hot, and it shuts the fan off... Cut the plug off, and put spade connectors on each wire. Are you getting any CEL? Pinging?
On the guage, all you need is a step-adpater to make it fit the plug in the intake. Make sure you install it in the front of the intake. Not in the back you will not get accurate readings if you install it in back port on the intake.
last thing to check is the ECT sensor. I had 1 go bad and it didn't "tell the engine" it was time to turn the fans on... If the car is stock fans shouldn't come on until 195, then high at 225... are you hearing the speed in the fan change at all?
On the guage, all you need is a step-adpater to make it fit the plug in the intake. Make sure you install it in the front of the intake. Not in the back you will not get accurate readings if you install it in back port on the intake.
last thing to check is the ECT sensor. I had 1 go bad and it didn't "tell the engine" it was time to turn the fans on... If the car is stock fans shouldn't come on until 195, then high at 225... are you hearing the speed in the fan change at all?
Also, it's only set up to run on high all the time.
I don't know what "CEL" is exactly. (Actually, I don't know what CEL means. Please let me know what CEL means, and I'll let you know if I have experienced it or not.
On pinging, I only experience it once it's under a heavy load. i.e. when I'm flooring it and the needle is on the "L" of NORMAL.
The step adapter: Thats the part I need.
The ECT sensor: I thought that was the issue also, but if you unplug the sensor on top of the intake, it makes the fan come on after a minute or so, and it runs continuously.
The fan is working, but it could be running on slow speed. I really have no way to find out though.
Ahhhhh....
LOL Yeah, I'm sure it's on. I mean, Dave's computer said it was on when he hooked it up the last time....about 6 months ago. It has been disconnected due to off road H-pipe and the cam and...yeah....ok....and so I have no idea if it's on or not.
But I'm sure it is.
LOL Yeah, I'm sure it's on. I mean, Dave's computer said it was on when he hooked it up the last time....about 6 months ago. It has been disconnected due to off road H-pipe and the cam and...yeah....ok....and so I have no idea if it's on or not.
But I'm sure it is.
"No problem! I'll take care of it right now! I'm so sorry!" Then he tried to give me $125 (the amount of the check) I said "We have a returned check fee of $25." So he gave me another $25. I said, Thank you! He was embarrassed, and took care of it right away. In three and a half years of running my school, this is only the 2nd time we have had a bounced check from a student or their parents. So, we have pretty good odds workign for us so far.
Tim this is what kind of worries me. You said you run straight water with water wetter. Well, if you run straight water you dont get the rust inhibiting additives in the antifreeze. You may have shale lining the inside of your coolant passages. This will reduce the heat transfer between the water and metal drastically. It may be something to look into.
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The water wetter is a rust inhibitor
Straight from their website:
"WaterWetter® is a unique wetting agent for cooling systems which reduces coolant temperatures by as much as 30ºF. This liquid product can be used to provide rust and corrosion protection in plain water for racing engines, which provides much better heat transfer properties than glycol-based antifreeze. Or it can be added to new or used antifreeze to improve the heat transfer of ethylene and propylene glycol systems. Designed for modern aluminum, cast iron, copper, brass and bronze systems. Compatible with all antifreezes, including the latest long-life variations."
The water wetter is a rust inhibitor
Straight from their website:
"WaterWetter® is a unique wetting agent for cooling systems which reduces coolant temperatures by as much as 30ºF. This liquid product can be used to provide rust and corrosion protection in plain water for racing engines, which provides much better heat transfer properties than glycol-based antifreeze. Or it can be added to new or used antifreeze to improve the heat transfer of ethylene and propylene glycol systems. Designed for modern aluminum, cast iron, copper, brass and bronze systems. Compatible with all antifreezes, including the latest long-life variations."
^^^^
The water wetter is a rust inhibitor
Straight from their website:
"WaterWetter® is a unique wetting agent for cooling systems which reduces coolant temperatures by as much as 30ºF. This liquid product can be used to provide rust and corrosion protection in plain water for racing engines, which provides much better heat transfer properties than glycol-based antifreeze. Or it can be added to new or used antifreeze to improve the heat transfer of ethylene and propylene glycol systems. Designed for modern aluminum, cast iron, copper, brass and bronze systems. Compatible with all antifreezes, including the latest long-life variations."
The water wetter is a rust inhibitor
Straight from their website:
"WaterWetter® is a unique wetting agent for cooling systems which reduces coolant temperatures by as much as 30ºF. This liquid product can be used to provide rust and corrosion protection in plain water for racing engines, which provides much better heat transfer properties than glycol-based antifreeze. Or it can be added to new or used antifreeze to improve the heat transfer of ethylene and propylene glycol systems. Designed for modern aluminum, cast iron, copper, brass and bronze systems. Compatible with all antifreezes, including the latest long-life variations."
__________________
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