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Old Aug 12, 2009 | 12:57 PM
  #21 (permalink)  
GNs-r-slow's Avatar
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Why cant the aftermarket gauge be hooked up? L is still part of NORMA-L
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Old Aug 12, 2009 | 01:12 PM
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Well dare I say this.....230 is right about at the border line of the acceptable range in this hell hole we live in (AKA heat and humidity)

<<<< will now sit and wait for the comments on how "my car runs a perfect 160 degrees in 100+ heat"

Serioulsy yes your getting border line on the high side. Never race at that temp, but street driving your probably ok.

Now the 2 methods you are using to check the actual temp are not the most accurate.

First the infra red temp sensor picked up some added heat from the metal and not to mention there is a sweet spot on those infra temp gauges that not many people know about. Plus they use a term called emissivity - short definition - Metal surfaces or shiney materials have a lower emissivity and give inaccurate readings with infra red sensors at times.

Second....stock gauge equals junk.

Take the time and hook up a MECHANICAL gauge! Get an accurate reading first!
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Old Aug 12, 2009 | 04:58 PM
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Dave, my friend also pointed it at the rubber hose. It gave a very close reading to the thermostat housing.

Tommy, I can't hook up the aftermarket mechanical gauge because I don't have the right fitting. Thats all. But I really can't afford to buy the right fitting either right now. I know, it's probably like $5 for a whole set of them, but I just found out that one of my clients bounced a check with us. That put me in the hole like $240. I hate when that happens. Sooooo....I'm stuck right now.

The mechanical gauge is in the car, and the sender thing is under the hood. It regularly reads 160* underhood temps all the time in the middle of the day. I would never race it when it was that hot. I've pressed it a bit before, and it started pinging like a bitch, so I never did it again.
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Originally Posted by rotarykidd
maybe i just like rainbows and puke, who says it has to be a gay thing?
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Old Aug 12, 2009 | 05:36 PM
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Are you sure the fan is blowing toward the engine and not blowing forward? I've inadvertently reversed the polarity/direction of the fan and it eventually gets to the point that it boils over if I don't happen to notice. Not much air flow when the forward speed and the fan are fighting each other. Yeah, it's a Kodak moment when I realize what I have done.
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Old Aug 12, 2009 | 05:52 PM
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Sry Dirt, but yes...I'm sure it's blowing the right way.
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Originally Posted by rotarykidd
maybe i just like rainbows and puke, who says it has to be a gay thing?
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Old Aug 12, 2009 | 06:22 PM
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I wanna guess too a/c overcharged or missing lower valance.....
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Old Aug 12, 2009 | 06:28 PM
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I'd tell him....but he already knows
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Old Aug 12, 2009 | 06:42 PM
  #28 (permalink)  
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Originally Posted by 95coBraSVT
but I just found out that one of my clients bounced a check with us. That put me in the hole like $240.
I have a nice letter fron the States Attorneys ffice that works pretty good. Send it certified and you'll get a response pretty fast usually including check fees. I quit taking checks with things the way they are.
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Old Aug 12, 2009 | 08:48 PM
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Check the plug on the fan. The 94-95 cars had a big problem with the plug melting... The fan will start to come on, then the plug gets hot, and it shuts the fan off... Cut the plug off, and put spade connectors on each wire. Are you getting any CEL? Pinging?

On the guage, all you need is a step-adpater to make it fit the plug in the intake. Make sure you install it in the front of the intake. Not in the back you will not get accurate readings if you install it in back port on the intake.

last thing to check is the ECT sensor. I had 1 go bad and it didn't "tell the engine" it was time to turn the fans on... If the car is stock fans shouldn't come on until 195, then high at 225... are you hearing the speed in the fan change at all?
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Old Aug 12, 2009 | 11:00 PM
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Your fan is takling a nap.
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