Carb swap
yes a carb can be run off an efi fuel pump.couple ways to do it.even a 4cyl stock pump will work if not to radical
best way is two regulators one an fi bypass return regulator set at 14 psi then ran into a normal carb regulator set at 6 psi
best way is two regulators one an fi bypass return regulator set at 14 psi then ran into a normal carb regulator set at 6 psi
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my wifes car is stock with longtubes, x pipe, msd 6al, 85 dizzy, performer intake ,holley 600 v/sec
starts everytime good gas mileage love it easy to fix lol
my car has a carb also. 347 vic jr intake 650 dp everything else under the sun .
runs like its fi without the hassle and looks kooler .....
starts everytime good gas mileage love it easy to fix lol
my car has a carb also. 347 vic jr intake 650 dp everything else under the sun .
runs like its fi without the hassle and looks kooler .....
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i have a holley 600 on my (for the most part) stock 5.0 and it's a bit much for it. motor was an efi 5.0 but when it was very poorly put in the coupe they went carb and did aaway with all the computer crap. i like it though when the car starts running like crap mainly all i have to do is pull the carb and blow out the first needle valve and she is good to go.
i would like to know about the fuel pump thing as well. can a carb be ran off the efi fuel pump?
i would like to know about the fuel pump thing as well. can a carb be ran off the efi fuel pump?
A 600 would be pretty much a perfect match for a 5.0. The 85 GT used a 580 CFM Holley,.. so a 600 is right on target. Yours may need to be fine tuned a little bit. Perhaps jetted a little richer or leaner depending on the condition. The 600 on my 306 had a bad off idle stumble when it was new out of the box. Turned out to be a lean stumble. Swapping out the power valve, going to a larger squirter and jetting it up pretty much cured it. But each car is different. Heads, cam, compression ratio, vacume signals,.. all have different effects on a carb. And even the carbs themselve can be different from one to another. My father inlaw built 2 305 Chevy motors for 2 S10 pick up conversions we were building to make a couple bucks on. The first motor ran great with a 600 vacume secondary holley. Tweaked the idle mixure a little bit and that was it,.. perfect right out of the box. But on the other motor,.. same as the first and using an identical carb needed the spring for the secondaries tweaked and needed to be jetted down on the secondaries. Took us a week to get it right. Just one of those things.
I tried running an EFI pump with a single return style regulator and had nothing but problems with it. At idle it would hold 6 PSI of fuel pressure just fine,. but as soon as you got on it a little bit the fuel pressure would fall off to nothing and the bowls would empty out. I tried upping the fuel pressure and anything over 7 PSI and the carb would start spitting fuel out of the top. But again,.. as soon as you got on it.. the fuel pressure would fall off.
I never tried Johns method of using 2 regulators. I recall reading about that somewhere else as well. I found it more reliable to swap out the pumps. A PITA to do,.. but less headaches in the long run.
Hurst
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Originally Posted by Tiffiny
"We all heart the Hurst"
Using 2 regulators would be a hella lot easier then dropping the tank and modifying the hat and changing pumps. I never tried it with 2. Just a single bypass regulator. But I read somewhere that even a 255 LPH efi pump was only rated for something like 65 gph. For a carb that would just barely cut it.
Personally I never understood why or how they work differently. The fuel is going through the same lines. Yet a carb pump cant supply more then 15 psi but still support a 500 hp carb motor. Then an EFI pump can maintain 45 PSI through a regulator to all of the injectors and support 500hp, yet by itself cant supply enough volume to feed a 600cfm carb on a 200 hp motor. Go figure? I've tried searching google for a descriptive answer between the two.. but didnt find anything that really explained it.
Hurst
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Originally Posted by Tiffiny
"We all heart the Hurst"
If you want stone COLD reliability....Then go EFI. Your car will run great even if it's cold out. BUT....If you want to go FAST....for less money.....Then go carb. The carb can be made reliable also...Contrary to what some people who don't understand them might say, carbs are extreemly reliable. Set it the way you want it to run, and go run it until you either leave it sit for an extended period of time...Or you change the settings.
Also, with a carb, you can figure out any issues it may have a lot easier than with EFI and it's numerous sensors. When one sensor goes out or goes bad, it causes the whole thing to run funky....OR, one sensor may go bad and just cause your mileage to go bad, but due to it running "great", you don't notice till you have filled up 2x in one day. LOL EFI has it's place....but unfortunatly, it's not in my car. LOL





