EFI to Carb Swap
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EFI to Carb Swap
OK im trying about going carb on my 89 coupe what all parts would i need to get and what size carb would i need for a 306 with Edelbrock Performer heads
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2008 Acura TL DD
1998 Beater Ranger DD
1994 Ford Mustang Project
2008 Acura TL DD
1998 Beater Ranger DD
1994 Ford Mustang Project
750 cfm Holley and google is your friend: EFI to Carb conversion..... - Ford Mustang Forums
That site has everything you need listed and how to do it.
That site has everything you need listed and how to do it.
750 is too big for a street car.
If you go with big heads and a big cam then you could use a 750,.. but would need to be jetted down a little bit and it would still be prone to flooding out especially with a DP carb.
Ideally for the street/strip a nice 600 - 650 Holley will be all you need.
Tons and tons of different intakes to choose from. Short runners, low profile, dual plane manifolds are better suited for daily driver duty with economy in mind. Wont support much power at high rpms.
A good street/strip intake with a mild cam would be something like a single plane Torquer II. With carb,.. will fit under a stock hood with a short air cleaner. You'll get decent low end torque for the street,.. and modest higher rpm power for the track.
If you have a good cam and heads a Vic jr is probably the best street/strip intake out there. Wont fit under a stock hood though.
As for ignition,.. Mallory, MSD,.. they all make good computerless setups.
I prefer the single wire Proform HEI. (Well 2 wires if you count the tach wire). All it needs to function is a 12v lead wire. Set timing and viola. Great maintainence free distributor. Runs $229 on Summits catalog. The only issue with the HEI is distributor and manifold clearance. If you run the standard heater hoses you have to plug off the the normal tall neck that goes in the front of the intake and use the one normally allotted for the temp sensor. It interferes with adjusting the timing. Then use a water neck that has a threaded provision or drill and tap one into it for a temp sensor. Also,.. the AC lines get in the way with this cap also. So no AC either. If you want normal heat and AC use something like a Mallory. But you'll need the coil and duraspark box also. HEI has everything built in one unit.
As for fuel. You will need to remove the EFI pump out of the tank. Add about 8" of fuel hose to the fuel hat where it would have normally tied into the fuel pump. Then set it back in the tank. You'll need an inline pump and filter as close to the tank as possible. Most inline pumps dont like to suck the fuel,.. they like to push it. So dont mount the pump up in the engine bay. You'll have a hard time getting it to prime.
What I do is remove the solid fuel lines that normally plug into the fual rails. I use a fuel plug into the soft hose and then add more line to run to a fuel regulator. It s good idea to get an inline fuel pressure gauge so you know where you stand. Set the fuel pressure to about 7 PSI (I've found this works best with street Holley carbs and 7 - 9 PSI for larger carbs and bigger motors). You can cap off the return line and dead head he fuel at the carb or use a return style regulator and send it back to the tank via the return line. But since its not going back to cool the pump,.. its pretty pointless to me.
The rest of the wiring like the fuel injector plugs and other sensors you can use your imagination to do what ever you want with them as you wont need them anymore unless you decide to go back to EFI. I usually roll them up and tuck them out of the way.
You CAN use the stock throttle cable. Advanced auto sells a cheap little GM style carb throttle cable bracket that mounts to a single bolt on the carb. Then use the little screw hole that is on the plate on the cable to mount it to the bracket.
The whole thing from start to finish can be done in about 2 - 3 hours,.. depending on how long it takes you to clean up the old intake gasket off the head ports. Thats the only tedius part that I really dont like.
Edit:
Here is an 86 I did. Its kinda half assed,.. but you get the idea.
I used a Holley 600 vac secondary 4160 carb, a Performer 289 intake and HEI carb and a summit branded fuel pump. No problems at all. Car had some bad rust in some really bad places. I ended up parting the car out. Motor had over 200k on it but ran absolutly fantasitc with the carb setup. You'd never know there was that kind of mielage on it.
Before:
After:
Hurst
If you go with big heads and a big cam then you could use a 750,.. but would need to be jetted down a little bit and it would still be prone to flooding out especially with a DP carb.
Ideally for the street/strip a nice 600 - 650 Holley will be all you need.
Tons and tons of different intakes to choose from. Short runners, low profile, dual plane manifolds are better suited for daily driver duty with economy in mind. Wont support much power at high rpms.
A good street/strip intake with a mild cam would be something like a single plane Torquer II. With carb,.. will fit under a stock hood with a short air cleaner. You'll get decent low end torque for the street,.. and modest higher rpm power for the track.
If you have a good cam and heads a Vic jr is probably the best street/strip intake out there. Wont fit under a stock hood though.
As for ignition,.. Mallory, MSD,.. they all make good computerless setups.
I prefer the single wire Proform HEI. (Well 2 wires if you count the tach wire). All it needs to function is a 12v lead wire. Set timing and viola. Great maintainence free distributor. Runs $229 on Summits catalog. The only issue with the HEI is distributor and manifold clearance. If you run the standard heater hoses you have to plug off the the normal tall neck that goes in the front of the intake and use the one normally allotted for the temp sensor. It interferes with adjusting the timing. Then use a water neck that has a threaded provision or drill and tap one into it for a temp sensor. Also,.. the AC lines get in the way with this cap also. So no AC either. If you want normal heat and AC use something like a Mallory. But you'll need the coil and duraspark box also. HEI has everything built in one unit.
As for fuel. You will need to remove the EFI pump out of the tank. Add about 8" of fuel hose to the fuel hat where it would have normally tied into the fuel pump. Then set it back in the tank. You'll need an inline pump and filter as close to the tank as possible. Most inline pumps dont like to suck the fuel,.. they like to push it. So dont mount the pump up in the engine bay. You'll have a hard time getting it to prime.
What I do is remove the solid fuel lines that normally plug into the fual rails. I use a fuel plug into the soft hose and then add more line to run to a fuel regulator. It s good idea to get an inline fuel pressure gauge so you know where you stand. Set the fuel pressure to about 7 PSI (I've found this works best with street Holley carbs and 7 - 9 PSI for larger carbs and bigger motors). You can cap off the return line and dead head he fuel at the carb or use a return style regulator and send it back to the tank via the return line. But since its not going back to cool the pump,.. its pretty pointless to me.
The rest of the wiring like the fuel injector plugs and other sensors you can use your imagination to do what ever you want with them as you wont need them anymore unless you decide to go back to EFI. I usually roll them up and tuck them out of the way.
You CAN use the stock throttle cable. Advanced auto sells a cheap little GM style carb throttle cable bracket that mounts to a single bolt on the carb. Then use the little screw hole that is on the plate on the cable to mount it to the bracket.
The whole thing from start to finish can be done in about 2 - 3 hours,.. depending on how long it takes you to clean up the old intake gasket off the head ports. Thats the only tedius part that I really dont like.
Edit:
Here is an 86 I did. Its kinda half assed,.. but you get the idea.
I used a Holley 600 vac secondary 4160 carb, a Performer 289 intake and HEI carb and a summit branded fuel pump. No problems at all. Car had some bad rust in some really bad places. I ended up parting the car out. Motor had over 200k on it but ran absolutly fantasitc with the carb setup. You'd never know there was that kind of mielage on it.
Before:
After:
Hurst
Last edited by Hurstmeister; 09-30-2008 at 06:05 PM.
for sure a 600-650 .. depending on your cam and gears. U didnt say what rpm range you inttend to make your power in. there is a BIG difference between an idle to 5500 motor and a 3500-7500 rpm 306. For a street car I would say 600 ideal 650 max for race purposes I could see a 750 on a good breathing high rpm motor. Really its a shot in the dar with out you providing everyone with complete details ... cid , cam , converter stall speed or running a manual trans , rear end gears and tire height. with that info u would get a much more accurate guess from members then just cid and some set of heads
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^^^ Very informative statement, makes all the difference in the world. First figure at were you wanna go with the car. I had a mild motor with ported gt-40p's, f-cam, Vr jr and I ran a 650dp out the box stock and was very happy with it
Biggest problem is over carbing a motor. Carbs and cams is were the statement bigger ISNT always better
Biggest problem is over carbing a motor. Carbs and cams is were the statement bigger ISNT always better
Last edited by GNs-r-slow; 09-30-2008 at 10:53 PM.
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ok the car has the 306 with the Edelbrock Performer heads,steeda #19 cam,3:55 gears and 245/40/18 in the front and 275/35/18 in the rear.I like the higher rpms ans so does the motor is hits 7000 rpms very fast and very hard right now.IM just getting really sick of the efi bs and it running rich all the time(i think my mass air is going bad)And the car is 5 spd.Really im done with the motor after this the car is fast right now maybe 75 or 100 shot.
__________________
2008 Acura TL DD
1998 Beater Ranger DD
1994 Ford Mustang Project
2008 Acura TL DD
1998 Beater Ranger DD
1994 Ford Mustang Project
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Join Date: Mar 2002
Posts: 1,557
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ONe bad thing i would like to know is the car going to make a lil more power with the carb setup and will i still need to dyno tune it all the time for any thing i do to the motor.I just want to be able to adjust it if its runnign ruch or lean.
__________________
2008 Acura TL DD
1998 Beater Ranger DD
1994 Ford Mustang Project
2008 Acura TL DD
1998 Beater Ranger DD
1994 Ford Mustang Project