This one first...Quick answer, NO. You should not have to dyno tune the car after any changes depending on how major they are. If you change the cam, I would suggest it, but it's not completely necissary. Dyno tuning with a carb may net you an extra 15 hp give or take 5 hp. I prefer to track tune a carb though. It's more fun.

Is the car going to be a 50/50 car? Or is it a 75/25 or just an all track car? This all factors in to which carb to run as well as how you want to have it set up.

The Steeda 19 cam is not too huge, so what the others have said about a 650 cfm carb is spot on. I didn't know if you were going to be running a large cam or a smaller one. In the past, my 67 mustang always responded well with a 750 vac secondary holley. I was running a 302 with decent flowing heads and a Performer RPM cam and intake pakage. I tried a 650 DP, and it slowed down by almost .4 sec in the 1/4 mile. Thats a drastic slow down to me. As soon as I jumped up with the cfm to 750, it came right back again. So I did some carb tuning, and it was fine. You're running the Performer heads, so I think they're the 1.94/1.60 valve heads? That motor should be fine with a 650. Especially with the Steeda 19 cam.


Overall, FOR ME, running a carb I've ALWAYS made more power with a LOT less $$$ involved. Running FI is easier if you have the $$$ to back it, but in the larger hp applications, you usually make more power with a carb IMO. You will loose MPG's, so if you're driving it on a daily basis, that is something to think about. Some people say you will loose a LOT of MPG's, but it's really not that much...Maybe 2 or 3MPG. (A fair trade IMO) The carb will be something that YOU can tune vs taking it to a tuner. (money saved already) You don't need to retune your carb unless you change elevations. (i.e. move to Colorado or something) And finally, if the car starts acting hinkey, you don't have to play the sensor game of replace and hope the computer kicked out the right code.



p.s. The Steeda 19 is not made to spin and make power up to 7000 rpm. I think it's made to spin up to 5500...but I could be wrong. Thats where mine stops making power at in my 95.

 

the car will be about 50 /50 and the steada makes power from 2000rpm to 6800rpm its a lil better cam then the f cam and i dont take to 7000 rpms all the time but the car likes it up there lol. I may want to put a new cam in the car to dont idk yet the car runs great with the efi i just want to be able to tune it a lil easyer.

 

Then carb will definatly help you out in that aspect.

 

FI is GREAT, the best thing ever made.... on a car with a warranty. My everyday cars, 07 Edge and an 07 F150 are FI. Before the warrant runs out they will be traded. My play car is carbed and always will be.
I like to work on my car not take them somewhere. that what the hobby is about for me

 

You dont 'dyno tune' a carb'd motor like you would EFI. I mean,.. you can take it to a dyno,.. hook up a wide band to find out if its lean or not. Make a couple pulls and try different jet setting and advance settings. But these are all things you can do at the track.

Make a base line run. Let the car cool down. Pull a couple of plugs out and see how they are,.. sooty,.. brown ring around them,.. white and dusty or nice and clean? Plugs will tell how a motor is running better then any wideband or computer can.

Prime example is the car I have now. 306, AFR 185 heads, Vic 5.0 intake, 75mm tb,. 30lb injectors, Long tubes,.. a lumpy cam,.. The ehxaust smelled rich,.. if I got on it,.. black sooty smoke would come out. Yet when I took it to get couple base line pulls on the dyno,.. the wide band said it was lean. So lean in fact that it was cut off in mid pull.

So I'm not too happy about that. I'm contemplating what to do. I know the tuner is a good tuner and he will do a very gppd jpb. But I also know its going to set me back $400 while I watch someone else work on my car. And if I have any more problems later after I change anything,.. its right back to the tuner and another $400. I decided I was going to carb the car. As I'm doing the conversion,.. I decide to change the plugs while I'm at it to freshen things up. To my shock,.. the 1st plug I pull out is almost fuel fouled. I pulled out another plug. Same thing. All of them were almost fuel fouled. So riddle me this batman,.. How can the wide band say the motor is way too lean when the plugs say its running too rich?

I trust the plugs before I trust that wideband.

Buy a jet kit. Take some spare wrenches with you. Play around with it between passes. Check the plugs,.. and the motor will tell you how its running and the ET's will tell you which jet and distributor settings it likes best.

Hurst

 

dude it sounds like my car the plugs say rich but the air fuel meter said lean idk what it is

 

The plugs never lie, so "listen" to them before the computer.

Hurst said it well. (even if he was a bit long winded while doing it) LOL

I dislike my 95 Cobra because I can't tune it like I can my 67. If I want to do anything to my cobra, I have to take it to the tuner and let him massage my baby. It's kinda like taking your GF to another guy to bang her for you. I hate it, and therefore haven't had it done yet. My 67, however, I have banged many times myself, and have NEVER allowed anyone else to molest. LOL

 

had to steal your line

 

No problem

 

Exhaust leaks will make the wideband show lean. Also, you may be OK at some Load/RPM's and lean at one or more Load/RPM's. It's the occasional lean spot that's gonna get you. Fuel and spark adders come into play too. They are based on ECT, ACT barometric readings load, RPM, Open Loop or Closed loop etc. The more things yo can adjust, the closer you can get your tune. Screwing around with just fuel pressure and timing ain't gonna make it. Today's good tune may kill you next week. OTOH, being able to muck around with your computer code can also give you a million and one ways to blow it up.