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Worked on my first pushrod this week...

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Old Apr 2, 2008 | 05:49 AM
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Default Worked on my first pushrod this week...

Being the modular guy I really don't get a chance to play with a pushrod. It was a 347 w/ TFS H/I. Right now I just pulled the intake off the car. What a pain in the ass that was. It seems there was about 10 radiator hoses I had to pull off the thing to get the intake off. And a hidden bolt in the pass side rear of the lower that I couldn't see. Oh and whats up with the metal tube going into the front of the intake? How many lines of coolant do you need? I guess I'm just used to my modular intake that I've taken off a hundred times or so.

But one thing I did notice is that the valves had some girth to them compared to my modular valves. But to change the pushrods you have to pull the intake right? And the gaskets are not reuseable. However I will say to get to all of the header bolts from the top is a pretty nice feature. Not used to that. Just wanted to share my experiences so far. That and I'm bored at work. -Mark
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Old Apr 2, 2008 | 06:18 AM
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Originally Posted by bitemark46
But to change the pushrods you have to pull the intake right?
Yes. Also remove the gas cap, license plate, radio antenna and driver side rear valve stem cap. Oh yeah, it will be much easier if you just drop the steering column and remove the dash. That way you can get to the two top bolts next to the firewall that hold the top of the box on over the heater core. (which is where those funny metal tubes go to)


I may have forgotten something...that looks too simple.
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Old Apr 2, 2008 | 06:28 AM
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you don't have to pull the lower manifold off, just the upper plenum, and thats only if you can't get the valve covers off with it in place.
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Originally Posted by cochese
Focus on getting that piece shit down the track, stop posting stories.
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Old Apr 2, 2008 | 06:48 AM
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This is true, but my valve covers are always too tall to come out without blasting the upper away. The stockers will come out IIRC. It's been two lifetimes since I have seen a stock valve cover though.
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Old Apr 2, 2008 | 07:10 AM
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Well I have to change the intake gaskets both upper and lower. But I do have a question... If the gaskets are paper how do you not get some of left over gasket from going into the intake port? I mean I started to peel one side and its so brittle. I almost have to resort to a razer and scrap it off. But I will say that the intake ports are huge. Just by the naked eye it would seem that they have more volume than my 231cfm dual port 4v head. -Mark
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Old Apr 2, 2008 | 07:35 AM
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ball up a paper towel and put one in each port, there isn't a fool proof way.
depending on how old the gasket is, you'll have to grind, scrape for sure.
... and most heads like that have 170-180cc intake, 240 or so cfm.


*edit

FYI
don't use the end gaskets that you get in the set (rubber or cork) throw them away and yes a nice bead of Prematex
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Originally Posted by cochese
Focus on getting that piece shit down the track, stop posting stories.

Last edited by $hawn; Apr 2, 2008 at 07:38 AM.
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Old Apr 2, 2008 | 08:22 AM
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Originally Posted by $hawn
FYI don't use the end gaskets that you get in the set (rubber or cork) throw them away and yes a nice bead of Prematex
+1 or use them if you that infamous oil puddle on the water bump.
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Old Apr 2, 2008 | 08:27 AM
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+1 on the paper towel trick and I use Ultra Black RTV on the ends and throw the end gaskets from the gasket kit away too.
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Old Apr 2, 2008 | 08:28 AM
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Originally Posted by $hawn
ball up a paper towel and put one in each port, there isn't a fool proof way.
depending on how old the gasket is, you'll have to grind, scrape for sure.
... and most heads like that have 170-180cc intake, 240 or so cfm.


*edit

FYI
don't use the end gaskets that you get in the set (rubber or cork) throw them away and yes a nice bead of Prematex
What? Are you saying don't use gaskets between the heads and intake? But use a gasket maker? -Mark
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Old Apr 2, 2008 | 08:34 AM
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