So are we talking about race cars that drive on the street? Street cars that sometimes race? Or dedicated race cars?

Instead of reinventing the wheel... what has been popular and worked in the past?

 

This is the main focus point of the whole thing. Start at the mid level guys and work down with 5-6 classes.

 

Keeping race cars that have been given some sort of street appearance out in some of the classes is another target. I think this is where some of the street classes now get ruined. High dollar drivetrain thrown in "street" looking car.

 

This was easy to see coming since I said I had more threads on the way about it.

Limiting peoples power adders would be tough and I think counter productive. The less rules the better.

 

I like the circle track idea of putting a dollar amount on the engine, that is the only way to keep people from spending a bunch of money. also making people work more on all other parts of the car.I would like to see how fast someone could go with 1000.00 motor. you probably would have to have a minimum weight also. now you are gonna have the back yard mechanics winning these races,the same guys that invented them, not cubic dollars

 

sounds like you want a more limited true street race setup or a "street stock suspension" class..

weight per ci (or up to 399 ci = xlbs) whichever works
10.5" slick or equivalent DR
stock susp
and then cherry pick a few from the true street type rules

let it eat.

oh, and if anyone needs lead bars for weight whenver these rules are set, i've got about 200lbs I could sell ya... I think i even have the 1/2" bolts...

 

IMO, the only way to make it so that the ones with huge wallets don't get the advantage is to stay bracket. Maybe multiple classes where the finals in each class goes to heads-up, pro-tree, no breakout only. So if you are in the finals of the 13.0-12.0 class, PT and closest to 12.000 wins.

No brakes.... Maybe 2-steps but probably not..or only in certain classes?

 

Goals:
1. A heads up class that would develop into a local race series and would eventually provide a payout.
2. It needs to be fast enough, and more importantly, close enough to draw spectators.
3. It needs to be cheap enough that the local guy won't go broke running this class, so it needs to be a street/race car with limited mods.
4. It needs to be structured so that Joe Nobody can actually beat Richy Rich on a level playing field.
5. It needs to be extremely easy to tech.

Ideas:
1. The claim rule definately works, but it's so cheap and easy to build a SBC, and that claimer package has been around for years in oval track racing, that before long I'm afraid that this would force everybody to run a sbc .
What works better than the claim rule, but is a little harder to tech because you need a portable dyno, is to run a HORSEPOWER to WEIGHT ratio. This way it doesn't matter if you run an aluminum big block or a supercharged 4 cylinder. It doesn't matter if it's a ford, chevy or mopar. At the end of the night you dyno the top 3 cars, if they are not within 10% of the HP to Weight ratio, they're out.
2. Tech inspection, you want the least amount of this as possible, you don't want a deal where somebody loses because the rearend is shortened 1/4 inch over stock BS. So besides safety tech I would be very specific about which tranny you require in the car. Make sure everybody can run it (ford mopar, chevy). If you don't, everybody will need to buy one to be competitive. It's my opinion that the trans should be as cheap as possible, if it were me, I would make everybody run a BW super t10, they're cheap, they work, and you can assemble one in the dirt next to your race car while holding a flashlight.
3. Electronics and power adders, IMO these are mutually compatible, if it was me, I would make everybody run a HEI style distributer since you can now buy them to fit anything. Here's the reason I say this, down the road, we will have traction control on drag cars (it's already everywhere else) it's a PITA to police. The other item, power adders, have to have an engine management to work well. since the idea is to dyno these engines to make sure they're within 10% of the HP to Weight rule, electronics makes that harder to do. The driver can screw with the electronics on the last run and dump 50hp. I don't understand why a single 4 bbl n/a rule is so bad, blowers and turbos are expensive, 4bbls are cheap. Since Joe Nobody has to race Ritchie Rich, let's help the little guy out for a change.
4. Decide what slick will SAFELY get you to the ET that you want, spec the brand, the compound and the size. Maybe you can get the tire corporation to underwrite the class or at least give everyone a break on price.
5. Require wheelie bars, I understand that some organizations make you run without them to help limit the tire performance, but it's dangerous, and it's hard on parts when the car comes down.

This is a good thread, I wish we had this when I raced.

 

And i'm sure your car will fall right in the top class,and you wont have to change anything.....correct?

 

FYI



http://reiderracing.com/rtech_tiredia.htm

http://www.race-cars.net/calculators/et_calculator.html