Vortec Oil return line
I gota Cheby
Joined: Jul 2003
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You use a punch, first a small punch and then you go to a bigger and bigger punch and then when the metal was folded in from punching the holes you then ran a tap. Thats how Vortech shows it for their supercharger install. Also grease up the tap to catch any metal shavings. Blue Oval will do the installs also. I just like that piece because i can tighten down snug which Vortech tells you to be careful and not over do it as you do not really have 360 degree thread
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Only 1/4 mile track I know is Gandy Bridge
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I have probably installed hundreds of SC's over the years for myself and customers and never had an issue with the punch/tap method.
Paxton sends a real nice punch with their kits that's short and ramps up fast so you don't have to worry about hitting the throw on the crank. After i tap it i just use RTV or JBWeld on the fitting so i know 100% it won't leak. I have never even came close to one wanting to strip on me. The tap is NPT so the further you go in the bigger the hole gets. i tap it about 3/4 way so the fitting starts easy the first few threads but tightens up pretty quick after that.
I have had ALOT of people bring their cars just for me to tap the pan. They are amazed when it takes 5 minutes to do the job. Alot of them think it's the hardest part of the install. Get a decently sized hammer otherwise you'll be there forever punching the hole.
Paxton sends a real nice punch with their kits that's short and ramps up fast so you don't have to worry about hitting the throw on the crank. After i tap it i just use RTV or JBWeld on the fitting so i know 100% it won't leak. I have never even came close to one wanting to strip on me. The tap is NPT so the further you go in the bigger the hole gets. i tap it about 3/4 way so the fitting starts easy the first few threads but tightens up pretty quick after that.
I have had ALOT of people bring their cars just for me to tap the pan. They are amazed when it takes 5 minutes to do the job. Alot of them think it's the hardest part of the install. Get a decently sized hammer otherwise you'll be there forever punching the hole.
Smacking Her A$$
Joined: Jul 2005
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I have used the method also, a whole helluva lot less work just to tap punch it...
Thread Starter
2wheels > 4 wheels
Joined: Aug 2005
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Originally Posted by xchief1320
I have probably installed hundreds of SC's over the years for myself and customers and never had an issue with the punch/tap method.
Paxton sends a real nice punch with their kits that's short and ramps up fast so you don't have to worry about hitting the throw on the crank. After i tap it i just use RTV or JBWeld on the fitting so i know 100% it won't leak. I have never even came close to one wanting to strip on me. The tap is NPT so the further you go in the bigger the hole gets. i tap it about 3/4 way so the fitting starts easy the first few threads but tightens up pretty quick after that.
I have had ALOT of people bring their cars just for me to tap the pan. They are amazed when it takes 5 minutes to do the job. Alot of them think it's the hardest part of the install. Get a decently sized hammer otherwise you'll be there forever punching the hole.
Paxton sends a real nice punch with their kits that's short and ramps up fast so you don't have to worry about hitting the throw on the crank. After i tap it i just use RTV or JBWeld on the fitting so i know 100% it won't leak. I have never even came close to one wanting to strip on me. The tap is NPT so the further you go in the bigger the hole gets. i tap it about 3/4 way so the fitting starts easy the first few threads but tightens up pretty quick after that.
I have had ALOT of people bring their cars just for me to tap the pan. They are amazed when it takes 5 minutes to do the job. Alot of them think it's the hardest part of the install. Get a decently sized hammer otherwise you'll be there forever punching the hole.
is doing your girlfriend
Joined: Dec 2004
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My Canton pan has a 1/8" NPT dip stick port. the turbo i have has a small 5/16" oil inlet, will the dip stick port be big enough for a drain? Im going to be running a -6 feed line and either a -6 or a -8 drain line.
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-6 is WAY overkill on a feed. AN4 is MORE than plenty.
AN6 is way too small for a return. AN-8 is borderline if you have to, AN-10 is recommended. Also, its gotta go continually down, no traps like you have in a sink drain.
Reason being the oil goes in a liquid, comes out as a frothy slop, and it needs to drain freely.
AN6 is way too small for a return. AN-8 is borderline if you have to, AN-10 is recommended. Also, its gotta go continually down, no traps like you have in a sink drain.
Reason being the oil goes in a liquid, comes out as a frothy slop, and it needs to drain freely.
has his prioritys ef'd up
Joined: Mar 2004
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At most you will ever need on a feed is -3, hell my billet flange is about the size of a ball point pen, coming from a -3, and yes the return needs to be ample enough, because when it comes out of that turbo, its like frappucino.
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Ryan
1990 Mustang GT (In Process)
1993 LX Coupe (Daily Driver, but just choose not to)
2005 Excursion (Big Pig)
Ryan
1990 Mustang GT (In Process)
1993 LX Coupe (Daily Driver, but just choose not to)
2005 Excursion (Big Pig)
