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Air charge temperature sensor?

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Old Jan 29, 2006 | 07:20 PM
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Default Air charge temperature sensor? *EDIT*

Ok guys, car is getting a bit better, we adjusted the TPS and checked the fuel system and make sure we had a working distributor and it is nearly there.

One question i have is about the air charge temperature sensor.
When you convert to mass air like I have done, doesnt the mass air meter take the place of that air charge sensor?

I am asking this because when I first joined here and I was posting my plans for this car, someone mentioned to me that i would need to remove this temperature sensor and just let it hang loose, tuck it away somewhere.
Is this true and where exactly is it located?

Last edited by 86stang; Jan 30, 2006 at 06:19 PM.
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Old Jan 29, 2006 | 07:58 PM
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The ACT sensor is in the lower intake manifold just above cylinder #5. It is the little sensor sticking out of the intake on the bottom right of this picture.



The ACT and mass air sensor are 2 totally different things. The mass air meter is inline in the intake hose going to the intake.

You can leave yours right were it is at. In the old days, folks would take it out and leave it on top of the intake. That would make the computer think that the air coming into the motor was colder than it really was and it would add a little more fuel.

I converted my 86 to mass air about 10 years ago. Anything I can help you with?
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Old Jan 29, 2006 | 10:58 PM
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MAF METER
The mass air flow sensor is the most direct method of measuring engine load because it measures the mass of air intake without needing corrections for temperature or pressure. Although, you'll see speed density on most Ford engines of the 80s, MAF is the choice in Ford engines of the 90s and in performance modifications.

MAF depends on the measurement of current flowing through heated wires to measure air flow. It's also known to Bosch guys as the "hot wire" sensor because of its heated wire design. It has several advantages over vane-type air-flow sensors.

1) It measures air mass, or weight, so it requires no air-fuel-mixture ratio correctionfor changes in density due to temperature or altitude.

2) It has no moving parts. That means mechanical simplification. Measurements follow changes in mass air in 1 to 3 milliseconds.

3) It offers insignificant resistance to the passage of air. Even at maximum air flow, drag force on the wire is measured in milligrams.

ACT SENSOR
The air charge tempreature sensor signals the control module about the air temperature.

This info is just a small bit from Probst FORD FUEL INJECTION book. Buy it.
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Old Jan 30, 2006 | 03:24 AM
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Hey 86, I think if I remember correctly that we are supposed to take the MAP senser and disconnect the vacuum line. I think I remember taking the vacuum line off and leaving the wiring to let it do something that it still needed. The MAP senser is the one on the fire wall right behind the intake, it is the little black square plastic box that is next to the vacuum tree. With the change in system, it changes the purpose of this senser. It may be in those directions I faxed over to you. Is this what you are talking about?
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Old Jan 30, 2006 | 03:43 AM
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Check out the picture of the intake in the first post stewart - the sensor is white and I could have sworn that someone told me to get rid of it earlier on...but i guess not.

I removed the hose that goes to the map sensor, if my memory serves me correctly it is now considered a BAP sensor, barometric air pressure. Its still plugged in but with no vac line going to it.

If anyone has a 24 lb mass air meter I could temporarily use for trouble shooting purposes id love you long time, because we need to eliminate this as a problem all together (its haunting me) I might even be able to drive to you if my car feels like it and you live closely.
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Old Jan 30, 2006 | 04:51 AM
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You are correct about what you did with the MAP/BAP sensor.

Other than that, it's really just a matter of wiring in the 4 wires for the meter and moving the wires for the thermactor stuff.

Back when I did mine, the whole mass air flow stuff was pretty new. The directions I got with my harness said nothing about adding the vehicle speed sensor or hooking up Pin 19 which tells the computer that the fuel pump is working.

It has run fine for over 10 years without that wiring hooked up.

Last edited by pinellas50; Jan 30, 2006 at 04:54 AM.
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Old Jan 30, 2006 | 02:07 PM
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I only did the 4 wires for the mass air on my '88. Once you remove the hose from the MAP you have to remember to plug the hose or cap off the port under the upper intake where it leads.
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Old Jan 30, 2006 | 04:33 PM
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86 that little white one is your ACT....that stays. I had a problem with idle for a while, it would bounce and/or stick at 1500. and after replacing a few sensors, the one that did it was the ACT. Put a new one in and not a problem since, nice idle no matter how hard I beat on it.....great car.
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Old Jan 30, 2006 | 05:04 PM
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i put a pipe plug where mine was supposed to go and drilled and tapped a hole in the back of my manifold, to mess with the computer to add more fuel
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Old Jan 30, 2006 | 05:36 PM
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Yeah we got the hose still on there that went to the Map sensor and it has a bolt stuck in the end of the hose with a zip tie holding it in place and there are no leaks from it so thats been taken care of.

The car ran when we took it to Just Racin' we drove it without mass air and i could spin the tires in it quite easily. I know its not good for it without the proper computer but it was at the time only used for going to work(5 minute drive).

We dropped it off, the guy added the wires, we had a bad computer that was used and a used 76mm C&L Meter, we got the car back, replaced the computer with a new A9L and tore down the dash to inspect the harness, everything was fine. We screwed with the timing for about 3 days, and its set perfectly, fuel system is fine.

The only part we'ved added other than the computer, the mass air wires is the meter

I have a firm belief that if I swap the meter out I will have my car back.
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