needs a tune......

 

The whole day I didnt even have to touch the throttle to start the car. Then last night I hit the key, it started and died within a few seconds. So I gave a quick 1/2 throttleand hit the key, did the same thing. I gave a lil bit of throttle when it started the 3rd time and it stayed running then I let off and it stalled. I started it again and kept my foot on it to keep it running around 1300ish and its runs realy rough like it has a miss. There were several times in between those times it started that it didnt want to. I dont know what happened, it ran fine all day and then this happens

-Frankie

 

sounds like you fouled out the plugs by flooding it, carbed cars do need to warm up for a few minutes, be patient and keep practicing, you'll get it.

 

check float.....only carb...relax

 

It was warm already, it had been sitting for maybe 30 mins if not less.

How do I do that? If it was a dirt bike I could take the carb apart with my eyes closed.

-Frankie

 

Gotta love carbs. This is why not long after man learned to walk upright he invented fuel injection.

 

Ok let me first tell you im no way a Ford guy,but I have tuned Holleys enough on rotarys,and basic tuning is the same for the piston engines..

I run 4776 600 Double pumpers 650 should be the same..

Checking floats..

Check the primary floats first.. Unscrew the fuel bowl float screw on the side of the carb,Shoudl be one in the rear,of the carb,one in the front on the fuel bowls..

Do it with the car off..

Start the car.. theres a huge flat head screw on top of the carb,one in the front one in the back with a nut under it,
thats to adjust the fuel floats..

When the car is running..
You want to adjust the floats,so the fuel is barley dripping out of the fuel bowl site screws,the ones on the side of the carb.

I cant remember to adjust the big top screw down or up for more fuel/less fuel.Its easy to figure out..

If you was in my area,I would adjust the carb to get it running ..
But to be jetted perfectly you would need to take it to a dyno or a wideband..

First check floats..
Check idle
then check primary air/fuel

then secondary air/fuel... this is on some of the newer Holley double pumper carbs..

You can also get a power valve block off,most of us rotary guys run it,but it makes us run a little more rich .

BTW,I didnt respond to this post to avertise this,but I have a 600?750? single feed vacume secondary 4bbl Holley carb I want to get rid of,it looks rough but the fuel bowls and valve body should be good.

$25. OBO,needs a rebuild..
I dont run vacume secondary carbs,and this one is useless to me..
Let me know if adjusting your floats works out,It sounds hard to explain it,but its a 10 min process..

 

Fuiel injection is for the people who have no idea how to tune carbs

 

I think what you meant to say was carbs are for old school guys with pro stock cars or for people who have no clue how fuel injection works.

 

Well Frankie looks like you and carbs have something in common.