All very common stuff you are seeing there. I cured all my idle and surging problems with a chip from JMS. Now, though, I would recommend something like TwEECer or EEC tuner, AEM, FAST or even a PMS might do the job. I think TwEECer is the best bang for the buck. My car is running pretty good right now and all I've been doing is playing around with the numbers. Still need to get it on the dyno to dial everything in but it idles like stock, there's no bucking going down the road. I need a wideband, either on the dyno or one for my very own to dial in the A/F all the way around for sure.

As for the boost numbers, you won't see 14 lbs except for a split second just before you shift. The cent. blowers build boost as the RPMS rise and then drop with the shifts and start to rise again. Get used to the fact that Scott, Briane, Steve, Moi and a couple of others are just gonna clean the sidewalk with you.

 

Any idea on the stalling thing?

 

Mine would do that at the dragstrip after a run...or elsewhere after a run. My personal opinion is that it is the result of long tube headers and relocating the O2 sensors farther back. That could possible have them operating at less of an optimum temp for them resulting in some screwy signals to the ECU. The turbo setup is with flipped shorties so the O2's are in the stock locations and the car doesn't seem to have that problem.

 

I still have stock headers w/ 02s in stock location.

Jeff

 

So much for my theory then. Must be that your car is just too shiny with too few miles. You need one like mine.

 

 

1- Amount of time in those gears is shorter, less time to build boost, probably normal for a centrifugal supercharger.

2- More boost = pull harder, every extra lb of boost will add 15 to 20 hp.

3- Too much fuel pressure, tps may be off.

4- Superchargers are gay.

Briane

 

1 - Im actually seeing good boost in 1st and 2nd now - hard to watch the tach and the boost gauge.

2 - I understand that - but what I am desribing is like I pressed the button on a 75-shot in the last 500 or so RPM.

3 - Im hoping the too much FP is the problem. I know its not the TPS, as this is a stock, untweaked motor, which was idling fine before the blower install.
^^^
I actually have another theory on this. Remember I have the smaller crank pulley now - but the same alt pulley - charging is going to suck... well I remember a setting on my old eec-tuner that was an injector pulswidth modifier (or something along those lines) that had to do with low voltage. It seems that if the voltage drops, it adds a little fuel somehow or another to keep it running, well when the rpm increases, so does the voltage and so on... creates a kinda loop.

Anyways, I have a few loose ends to tie up but it does run pretty strong and the drivability is like stock. Only reason I didnt get a turbo is because I didnt want to fuck up my car like the rest of you. !!!

 

That's why I got a car that was already fucked up. Momma didn't raise no foo.

Maybe you're leaning out in that last 500 RPM. They always run best just before they blow up. And let me be the first to verify that fact.

You are correct about the Injector offset vs batt voltage...

Definition: The delay beteween when the injector driver fires and when the injector actually starts to open.

If this value is too low, the actual pw will be slightly shorter than commanded across the board and you'll run slightly lean. If it is too long, it effectively increases the pw and you'll be slightly rich. The offset varies with battery voltage because at lower voltages the injectors take longer to respond.

The EEC uses this to compensate for the injector open and close time. The amount of time it takes the injector to open and close varies by the amount of voltage available to drive the injector.

The offset vs batt voltage should be good for most injectors, but if you want to adjust it then use the original injector size / new injector size ratio.
19.64 / 42.1 = ~0.45 now multiply the Y value of the batt offset function by 0.45.......