E7 Valve job pics/progress ;)
Well I got a set of heads to work on from TheShow50H over the weekend so I can work on my valve skills. This is what I have thus far.
I'm dipping/working the heads one at a time. I dip them in carb cleaner/acid that works pretty good for breaking up most of the carbon deposits. Nothing like an acid agitator, but it works
Here's a pic of the head cleaned in a parts washer before dipping and some of the valves/springs removed from the other head.

Here's a pic of the valve as I recieved it all covered with carbon deposits sitting next to one I had just finished cleaning up with the wire wheel. Sorry about it being blurry my dig camera is old

Here's the first side exhaust valves finished up with a 2 angle grind. We still have to determine whether the seats themselves need to be ground once the head is clean. I chose 2 angle over the 3 angle because they are the stock temper valves and I want them to last longer. The third angle would remove most of the small flat seat edge making the metal much thinner than stock posing a higher chance of breaking being the stock valves and not a high temp hardened steel.

That's all for now I'll update tomorrow with some more pics
I'm dipping/working the heads one at a time. I dip them in carb cleaner/acid that works pretty good for breaking up most of the carbon deposits. Nothing like an acid agitator, but it works
Here's a pic of the head cleaned in a parts washer before dipping and some of the valves/springs removed from the other head.
Here's a pic of the valve as I recieved it all covered with carbon deposits sitting next to one I had just finished cleaning up with the wire wheel. Sorry about it being blurry my dig camera is old

Here's the first side exhaust valves finished up with a 2 angle grind. We still have to determine whether the seats themselves need to be ground once the head is clean. I chose 2 angle over the 3 angle because they are the stock temper valves and I want them to last longer. The third angle would remove most of the small flat seat edge making the metal much thinner than stock posing a higher chance of breaking being the stock valves and not a high temp hardened steel.
That's all for now I'll update tomorrow with some more pics
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Looks good but on performance what will this do?
Not being a dick I dont know much about valves but arent you pretty much cleaning up what already is there?
OR
Are you making a 2 angle out of a rounded valve?
LIke I said not being a dick it does look good/
Not being a dick I dont know much about valves but arent you pretty much cleaning up what already is there?
OR
Are you making a 2 angle out of a rounded valve?
LIke I said not being a dick it does look good/
To my understanding, this work will make them run like they were new. Plus air should more easily enter and leave the combustion chambers because of the cut from the valve.
My car currently has e6 heads on it for some reason, or i wouldn't even bother with these heads. My plan is to basically replace the heads with something that should bump the power significantly compared to the heads I currently have on, and while I'm replacing them put on some stout head gaskets and prepare to spray
btw, your ruining my towel!
My car currently has e6 heads on it for some reason, or i wouldn't even bother with these heads. My plan is to basically replace the heads with something that should bump the power significantly compared to the heads I currently have on, and while I'm replacing them put on some stout head gaskets and prepare to spray
btw, your ruining my towel!
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-Vince
-Vince
The stock angle cut on those are 45 degree one cut angle with a nasty lip. I cut them 44 degree, then top it with a 30 degree, removing the lip alltogether. This gives the air flow going into/out of the chambers less resistance passing by the valve therefore allowing more air at a higher velocity
Another part is the 44 degree cut, when matched to the 45 degree seat will have a "wedge" effect on the valve keeping a good strong valve to seat seal.
Another part is the 44 degree cut, when matched to the 45 degree seat will have a "wedge" effect on the valve keeping a good strong valve to seat seal.
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Originally posted by TheShow50h
To my understanding, this work will make them run like they were new. Plus air should more easily enter and leave the combustion chambers because of the cut from the valve.
My car currently has e6 heads on it for some reason, or i wouldn't even bother with these heads. My plan is to basically replace the heads with something that should bump the power significantly compared to the heads I currently have on, and while I'm replacing them put on some stout head gaskets and prepare to spray
btw, your ruining my towel!
To my understanding, this work will make them run like they were new. Plus air should more easily enter and leave the combustion chambers because of the cut from the valve.
My car currently has e6 heads on it for some reason, or i wouldn't even bother with these heads. My plan is to basically replace the heads with something that should bump the power significantly compared to the heads I currently have on, and while I'm replacing them put on some stout head gaskets and prepare to spray
btw, your ruining my towel!
i just use regular fel pro gaskets and have never blown one (knock on wood) using nitrous. just tune it safely and you'll be ok
i didnt do shit to my valves either, just ported the fuck out of the exhaust, make sure you grind down all those emissions humps and plug the hole on the end. get a set of header gaskets and use those to port match, leave the exhaust side as smooth as possible to promote better flow. if you do the intake side make sure to leave a rough finnish to help with atomization of fuel.
i didnt port my intake side, pm me for #'s
Here's a dramatization of the work in progress. I'm sure the angles aren't right in the picture, but you get the idea
Obviously you can tell which one will flow better air coming from the top (smaller) to the bottom of the valve.
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Last edited by EsCoRtLvR; May 18, 2004 at 12:11 PM.
That's not picturing the bottom of the valve, just the angles. There's still about 1/16th of an inch of flat metal at the bottom.
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