i want to put a dry kit on a stock 92 5.0, on my trans am i just mount the nozzle before the mass air,when the cold air passes through the computer sends a signal to the injectors to compensate,,,no big deal,,,ive heard something about using vaccum on the 5.0 fords?, i want to run 100 -150, almost never using the 150, ive got a msd, but no rev limiter, exhaust, cold air kit, 5sd.,could you guys please help me out with some info??what do i need to do to run the 100 shot, i havent touched the timing either.......thanks

 

drop the timing 2 degrees +2 more for each 50 hp of shot. personally i wouldnt run a dry kit, when nitrous reaches 537 degrees the molecules separate the n2 from the o and the oxygen allows you to burn more fuel and make more power. running lean doesnt really leave you much room for error, ie burnt pistons. its not really any harder to run a wet kit. i would drill the throttle body on that car and run a wet kit, mounted in the tb. if you go wet you should not have any problems running a 150 shot all the time instead of a 100.

good luck

 

If you have a properly setup dry kit running a 100 shot it will make the same power as a properly setup wet kit running a 100 shot. As long as Af ratio is that same and timing is the same. Different brands have different HP "shots". But the bottom line is how much nitrous is flowing. I dont care what brand X sias is a 100 shot....take it to the dyno, jet till you reach 100 hp with the correct AF ratio and that is a 100 shot. At that point....as long as the atomaization of fuel on both kits is similair...they will be flowing approximately the same amount of nitrous in PPH.

In other words...dont buy into the dry kits suck theory. If set up right...they are equally effective as wet kits. I think they got a bad name because they were easier to reach the limits of the fuel system since the injectors came into play. Easier to get greedy and bo boom.

Both will add extra fuel. The only difference is the dry kit will add the fuel by spiking the fuel pressure at the regulator, that in turn will make the injector flow rate jump since they are operating at a higher PSI. A wet kit adds fuel at the same point the nitrous comes into the intake tract...at the nozzle.

 

i agree, i just have a hard time trusting my motor to a 12 year old set of injectors plus im very greedy

 

Yes...that is a consideration for sure.

 

from what i've seen dry kits are safer really, i mean, theres alot less chance of intake backfire, and its easier to get away witout running a purge/ window switch and such........


if you have no purge on a wet kit, prepare for some massive bogging and an nice possibility of a huge boom that will seriously screw your car...........

 

I use a dry kit and spray before the throttle body. Also I was told when you take out the timing, just to clear up, take it from whatever you have it presently set at. If you run 16 deg. int. timing, then you would subtract the 2 deg. per 50 hp shot from there. I find this works for me, but I also only use the n2o at the track. It is definitely a good idea to get the car on the dyno to play with the timing. Also make sure your car is in good working order. Fix any engine problems before you spray.

Also what kit do you use? I have a Zex kit and it has a control box that you run vaccum lines between fuel pressure regulator and the intake. This is what boosts the fuel pressure when the nitrous flows.

Hope this helps.

 

right now i have enough to run a wet shot with a purge, id need a line to tap into my fuel rail, i was wanting to go dry shot for the easy factor., i have both nozzle setups, my brother has a dry shot on his Z06, i really like how simple it is, thats why i was wanting the dry setup, this will be my first nitrous setup with a stick shift,ive seen many miss sift booms over the years, i want to avoid that! damn, i wonder if their are any web pages dedicated to juice on the mustangs? i looked for awhile before running the post but couldnt fine anything that helped...............

 

Dry kits are the way to go in my opinion. My '94 was putting about 335 to the wheels with a 150 shot and it was never tuned. The car went 12.3's all day long. The only reason I ever had any problems was because of a bad tank of gas. The only thing it did then was breach the headgasket barely between two cylinders.

Like was mentioned before, pull out 2 degrees for every 50 shot you're running. You also need to drop to a step colder plug and gap them at .035. You won't run quite as good N/A but who gives a shit right?

 

you wouldnt happen to know what brand and plug part# to run would you?