car hesitating 1900-2800rpm..help!
Our full size chevy van has a 350 in it. That sucker had a broken up cat. It would run but those about 1800-3something RPMS would run like ass. If you got on it she would move like nothing was restricting her. If you let it idle same deal.
Could also be a clogged up fuel filter, but that wouldn't make a different exhaust note I wouldn't think.
Could also be a clogged up fuel filter, but that wouldn't make a different exhaust note I wouldn't think.
__________________
"Genuine" ASE certified Mazda, Hyundai, Isuzu Technician
Escort Enthusiast Site
Automotive Electrical Specialist, Tuning Specialist
"Genuine" ASE certified Mazda, Hyundai, Isuzu Technician

Escort Enthusiast Site
Automotive Electrical Specialist, Tuning Specialist
It's a little worse today. starts around 1500-3000. It has a slightly higher exhaust pop from idle-2500 where the exhaust drowns the popping out. Im going to put her up on the lift and pull the exhaust to see whats up.
__________________
Dave
1998 GT cp (totalled, compliments of a dump truck)
1996 pony (awaiting transplant)
Dave
1998 GT cp (totalled, compliments of a dump truck)
1996 pony (awaiting transplant)
Originally posted by FordMan
It is not throwing any codes ?
It is not throwing any codes ?
Originally posted by Road Rage
you still have egr?
you still have egr?
__________________
Dave
1998 GT cp (totalled, compliments of a dump truck)
1996 pony (awaiting transplant)
Dave
1998 GT cp (totalled, compliments of a dump truck)
1996 pony (awaiting transplant)
This isn't for a Ford, but it's informative for the same problem you're having. I still say check the fuel filter as well though.
PROBLEM: Surge and hesitation between 1500 and 3000 rpm
Affects: All '91 - '93 SR20DE (Sentra SE-R, NX2000 and G20)
If the usual tune-up procedure doesn't take care of the problem, disconnect the EGR valve and plug the vacuum hose leading to it from the BPT valve. Take the car out for a ride, making sure to drive in the same manner that typically causes the car to surge and hesitate. If the problem is no longer present, chances are good that you're experiencing the infamous "EGR Problem".
Remove both vacuum hoses from BPT (right-most disk shaped object behind valve cover). Remove the two philips screws on its top. Push the BPT back toward the firewall. You should see a rubber hose running between the bottom of the BPT and a metal tube. Remove the BPT and rubber hose from the metal tube and set them aside.
This metal tube is connected to the EGR passage and, ultimately, to the exhaust manifold. Exhaust manifold pressure, via this metal tube, operates the BPT valve which regulates the vacuum to, and the opening of, the EGR valve. The less exhaust manifold pressure - the more the BPT valve opens - the more the EGR valve opens. The more exhaust manifold pressure - the less the BPT valve opens - the less the EGR valve opens. Carbon may block this metal tube which causes the BPT to not operate properly (if at all) which causes the EGR valve to operate uncontrollably.
Wait until the car is cold, then spray some carb and choke cleaner into the metal tube to soften up the blockage. Used a stiff piece of wire (a long chunk of 8 gauge wire left over from the big car stereo install will do) to ream out the tube. (*Note: DO THIS WHEN THE CAR IS COLD!! Carb cleaner and a hot exhaust don't mix well.*) Take note of how far you have pushed the wire into the tube before you pull it out. Lay the wire along side the BPT tube to gauge how far down the tube you have gone. When you've pushed the wire far enough down the tube to have reached the EGR tube it intersects, you've probably removed all of the blockage(s)
Wait about 10 minutes for the chemicals to evaporate. Start the car and hold your finger in front of the metal tube. You should feel a steady stream of exhaust coming from it. If not, try cleaning it again.
While you're waiting for the chemicals to evaporate, now would be a good time to remove your EGR valve and clean the carbon deposits from the plunger and seat. I find that the carbon build up eventually gets bad enough to hold the EGR valve slightly open. This changes your base idle speed (TPS disconnected) and can also cause a rough and wandering idle as well as possibly causing your car to stall when you push in the clutch.
Reassemble the system, hook your EGR valve back up and take your car out for a ride. You should find that the problem is gone and your local smog police will give you an award for being a law-abiding smog free citizen once more.
Affects: All '91 - '93 SR20DE (Sentra SE-R, NX2000 and G20)
If the usual tune-up procedure doesn't take care of the problem, disconnect the EGR valve and plug the vacuum hose leading to it from the BPT valve. Take the car out for a ride, making sure to drive in the same manner that typically causes the car to surge and hesitate. If the problem is no longer present, chances are good that you're experiencing the infamous "EGR Problem".
Remove both vacuum hoses from BPT (right-most disk shaped object behind valve cover). Remove the two philips screws on its top. Push the BPT back toward the firewall. You should see a rubber hose running between the bottom of the BPT and a metal tube. Remove the BPT and rubber hose from the metal tube and set them aside.
This metal tube is connected to the EGR passage and, ultimately, to the exhaust manifold. Exhaust manifold pressure, via this metal tube, operates the BPT valve which regulates the vacuum to, and the opening of, the EGR valve. The less exhaust manifold pressure - the more the BPT valve opens - the more the EGR valve opens. The more exhaust manifold pressure - the less the BPT valve opens - the less the EGR valve opens. Carbon may block this metal tube which causes the BPT to not operate properly (if at all) which causes the EGR valve to operate uncontrollably.
Wait until the car is cold, then spray some carb and choke cleaner into the metal tube to soften up the blockage. Used a stiff piece of wire (a long chunk of 8 gauge wire left over from the big car stereo install will do) to ream out the tube. (*Note: DO THIS WHEN THE CAR IS COLD!! Carb cleaner and a hot exhaust don't mix well.*) Take note of how far you have pushed the wire into the tube before you pull it out. Lay the wire along side the BPT tube to gauge how far down the tube you have gone. When you've pushed the wire far enough down the tube to have reached the EGR tube it intersects, you've probably removed all of the blockage(s)
Wait about 10 minutes for the chemicals to evaporate. Start the car and hold your finger in front of the metal tube. You should feel a steady stream of exhaust coming from it. If not, try cleaning it again.
While you're waiting for the chemicals to evaporate, now would be a good time to remove your EGR valve and clean the carbon deposits from the plunger and seat. I find that the carbon build up eventually gets bad enough to hold the EGR valve slightly open. This changes your base idle speed (TPS disconnected) and can also cause a rough and wandering idle as well as possibly causing your car to stall when you push in the clutch.
Reassemble the system, hook your EGR valve back up and take your car out for a ride. You should find that the problem is gone and your local smog police will give you an award for being a law-abiding smog free citizen once more.
__________________
"Genuine" ASE certified Mazda, Hyundai, Isuzu Technician
Escort Enthusiast Site
Automotive Electrical Specialist, Tuning Specialist
"Genuine" ASE certified Mazda, Hyundai, Isuzu Technician

Escort Enthusiast Site
Automotive Electrical Specialist, Tuning Specialist
figured it out. apparantly i have antifreeze leaking somewhere, since my #5 plug hole keeps filling up with the stuff. I can clean it out and she'll run fine too and from work, but if the thermostat opens i have to soak the antifreeze back out of the hole. This SUCKS!
__________________
Dave
1998 GT cp (totalled, compliments of a dump truck)
1996 pony (awaiting transplant)
Dave
1998 GT cp (totalled, compliments of a dump truck)
1996 pony (awaiting transplant)
Guest
Posts: n/a
Originally posted by superdave
figured it out. apparantly i have antifreeze leaking somewhere, since my #5 plug hole keeps filling up with the stuff. I can clean it out and she'll run fine too and from work, but if the thermostat opens i have to soak the antifreeze back out of the hole. This SUCKS!
figured it out. apparantly i have antifreeze leaking somewhere, since my #5 plug hole keeps filling up with the stuff. I can clean it out and she'll run fine too and from work, but if the thermostat opens i have to soak the antifreeze back out of the hole. This SUCKS!
Head gasket !
Makes since why you are having hesitation, that cylinder is not firing.
yup nip that bud before it gets REALLY bad
__________________
"Genuine" ASE certified Mazda, Hyundai, Isuzu Technician
Escort Enthusiast Site
Automotive Electrical Specialist, Tuning Specialist
"Genuine" ASE certified Mazda, Hyundai, Isuzu Technician

Escort Enthusiast Site
Automotive Electrical Specialist, Tuning Specialist
Originally posted by FordMan
Head gasket !
Makes since why you are having hesitation, that cylinder is not firing.
Head gasket !
Makes since why you are having hesitation, that cylinder is not firing.
On a more positive note, I just found out a good friend of mine is the granddaughter of the founder of Comp Cams (a Memphis Company
). She's working on getting me a set of the XE270 or XE278 cams. If i have to pull the head off anyway, it would be a great time for some upgrades.
__________________
Dave
1998 GT cp (totalled, compliments of a dump truck)
1996 pony (awaiting transplant)
Dave
1998 GT cp (totalled, compliments of a dump truck)
1996 pony (awaiting transplant)



