The Official TR Guide To Buying A Used 5.0 Mustang
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The Official TR Guide To Buying A Used 5.0 Mustang
Since I went through and typed a whole list of stuff over AIM (didn't mind in the least), but I figured it probably wouldn't hurt to compile all of this stuff into one common thread for us all to update with what to look for when purchasing a used 5.0 Mustang. We don't even have to make this a sticky, just leave it in the database for us to refer people to as needed.
-be forwarned, the auto will be a dog. AOD mustangs are 15 second cars when new. Expect a typical AOD GT mustang to run about a 15.5 or higher. They will get much faster from there, but this is what you're up against now.
-there are a few things to check, like engine oil and tranny fluid (clearish, no burnt smell)
- radiator (remove cap and look for rust/crap in the rad. core. If there is it will need a new radiator or that one cleaned which is about $100 either way
- The rear end is whats called a 4 link
basically it has 4 "bars" that connect the axle to the chassis.
Where each of these 4 bars connect to the body of the car, they can "tear" the metal if the car has been abused. If the car is a stock auto, you don't have much to worry about. Stock 5 speed or modded anything, look VERY carefully. Check all 4 of these points to make sure they are firmly attached to the car, no twisting or bending at all
-Pop the hood and look at where the fenders bolt to the car along the top. If the paint is mismatched, patchy, shiny, or the bolts look messed with, the car's been in an accident. Not a problem if it drives straight, but you should know
-Also, you will see a framerail that runs to the very front of the car (best seen with the hood up looking down, right behind the headlights), make sure this is straight, not rusted, and no ripped holes (if they rearend someone, the front bumper will shove back into the frame rail and rip its mounting holes), again, not a huge issue if the car looks and drives straight, but you should know it
-There really aren't any rust prone areas on these cars, except for the hatch (around the back window). You can't really fix the rust, but you should be able to find one that isn't rusted in the junkyard
-I would personally look to make sure the stock radio is in the car and looks like its been there a while, I really hate butchered wiring for radio's.
-Look around the windshield opening for small cracks in the paint. If the car was driven hard or wrecked, the car will flex alot and start cracking minorly. Not a good thing, but if the rest of the car is a good deal, its not a deal breaker
-Oh, one HUGE thing (if you care).
On the passenger side of the motor, right above and behind the valve cover there will be 2 rubber hoses connecting at the firewall. These are for the heater core. Pay very close attention to them. If they are disconnected, or are looped together, it means the heater core leaks (they will do it eventually). Also run the heater on high for a while with the engine idling. Smell for antifreeze on the inside, look for water leaking in the passenger footwell, and look for a slimy "haze" on the windshield. All of these mean the heater core is leaking coolent. The problem is the whole dash has to come out to fix the heater core. Its a major PITA for a $60 part but if you want a working heater, its very important, if you don't care, no biggie, if it starts leaking, you can bypass it
-When you crank the car up, watch the dash for the warning lights. You should see "Check engine", "Air bag", and a few others, but those two are the most important. If those lights don't light up when you go to start the car, be careful. He may have pulled those bulbs to keep the lights from being on while driving, which means the car could have an air bag or engine code
Again, nothing too huge, but you should know
-Also check to make sure the headlights work (low and high beam). The switch for them (part of the turn signal stalk) wears out the contacts sometimes and its about $70 new.
-Power window motors go from time to time, but they are $20 from the auto parts store and not too difficult to replace
- Listen for the fuel pump humming in the back. If you can hear it over road noise or think its loud, its probably about to go bad. A pump capable of 500 hp is $100 and takes about an hour to install
-Other than that, here's what WILL be wrong with it.
-It will squeak and rattle some while driving over bumps or highway speeds, not bad, but you'll hear it. A set of $65 subframe connectors will REALLY tighten the car up alot
-The map light won't work if its the kind that swivels from the roof (probably not because the car has a sunroof)
-The door for the ashtray will flop around and have a broken spring but again, nothing big
Again, if you have any info you'd like to add, please feel free. If this sounds like a really stupid idea, its 1:30 am
-be forwarned, the auto will be a dog. AOD mustangs are 15 second cars when new. Expect a typical AOD GT mustang to run about a 15.5 or higher. They will get much faster from there, but this is what you're up against now.
-there are a few things to check, like engine oil and tranny fluid (clearish, no burnt smell)
- radiator (remove cap and look for rust/crap in the rad. core. If there is it will need a new radiator or that one cleaned which is about $100 either way
- The rear end is whats called a 4 link
basically it has 4 "bars" that connect the axle to the chassis.
Where each of these 4 bars connect to the body of the car, they can "tear" the metal if the car has been abused. If the car is a stock auto, you don't have much to worry about. Stock 5 speed or modded anything, look VERY carefully. Check all 4 of these points to make sure they are firmly attached to the car, no twisting or bending at all
-Pop the hood and look at where the fenders bolt to the car along the top. If the paint is mismatched, patchy, shiny, or the bolts look messed with, the car's been in an accident. Not a problem if it drives straight, but you should know
-Also, you will see a framerail that runs to the very front of the car (best seen with the hood up looking down, right behind the headlights), make sure this is straight, not rusted, and no ripped holes (if they rearend someone, the front bumper will shove back into the frame rail and rip its mounting holes), again, not a huge issue if the car looks and drives straight, but you should know it
-There really aren't any rust prone areas on these cars, except for the hatch (around the back window). You can't really fix the rust, but you should be able to find one that isn't rusted in the junkyard
-I would personally look to make sure the stock radio is in the car and looks like its been there a while, I really hate butchered wiring for radio's.
-Look around the windshield opening for small cracks in the paint. If the car was driven hard or wrecked, the car will flex alot and start cracking minorly. Not a good thing, but if the rest of the car is a good deal, its not a deal breaker
-Oh, one HUGE thing (if you care).
On the passenger side of the motor, right above and behind the valve cover there will be 2 rubber hoses connecting at the firewall. These are for the heater core. Pay very close attention to them. If they are disconnected, or are looped together, it means the heater core leaks (they will do it eventually). Also run the heater on high for a while with the engine idling. Smell for antifreeze on the inside, look for water leaking in the passenger footwell, and look for a slimy "haze" on the windshield. All of these mean the heater core is leaking coolent. The problem is the whole dash has to come out to fix the heater core. Its a major PITA for a $60 part but if you want a working heater, its very important, if you don't care, no biggie, if it starts leaking, you can bypass it
-When you crank the car up, watch the dash for the warning lights. You should see "Check engine", "Air bag", and a few others, but those two are the most important. If those lights don't light up when you go to start the car, be careful. He may have pulled those bulbs to keep the lights from being on while driving, which means the car could have an air bag or engine code
Again, nothing too huge, but you should know
-Also check to make sure the headlights work (low and high beam). The switch for them (part of the turn signal stalk) wears out the contacts sometimes and its about $70 new.
-Power window motors go from time to time, but they are $20 from the auto parts store and not too difficult to replace
- Listen for the fuel pump humming in the back. If you can hear it over road noise or think its loud, its probably about to go bad. A pump capable of 500 hp is $100 and takes about an hour to install
-Other than that, here's what WILL be wrong with it.
-It will squeak and rattle some while driving over bumps or highway speeds, not bad, but you'll hear it. A set of $65 subframe connectors will REALLY tighten the car up alot
-The map light won't work if its the kind that swivels from the roof (probably not because the car has a sunroof)
-The door for the ashtray will flop around and have a broken spring but again, nothing big
Again, if you have any info you'd like to add, please feel free. If this sounds like a really stupid idea, its 1:30 am
|-Resident LT1 Killer-|
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 7,677
Likes: 0
wrong about the map light, mine is an 88 and has the neato lil chrome lookin light the u push forward to get the light to pop down, IT WORKS YEAAH!
O and yeah, the ashtray, that spring is broke lol.
I still do have my middle console between the seats and is in decent condition to, lil arm wear and tear on it, but most are broken already as they do not support much weight and using them for balance while jumping into the car does them in quick.
Also look for oil caps on the ground near the car when your lookin at it.
I was lookin at a stang for sale that smoked like no tomorrow and it had a fresh oil cap lying on the ground next to the car, man that guy was a moron to leave it there lol.
Valve cover gaskets, they leak alot when the car is old, most fox bodies will indeed leak and will need a replacing if they have not already been replaced.
My heater core hose(top) is busted and will be fixed soon probly.
It sprays nice coolant all down my bell housing and the back of my heads etc.
Check the air damn below the radiator, not a common occurence to be broken but if it is bent in and severly ripped, torn or even gone you will most likely be in need of a whole core support.
That piece wont be attainable without the whole core support assembly and it aids in directing air to the radiator so you dont overheat. IT IS A MUST HAVE! and yeah, mine is slightly bent from rolling off a trailer into 66th st and park blvd while doin like 20 mph. SUCK!
Check for damp floormats in front and rear to see if there are any up to date leaks in the windows up front or hatch if there is a hatch.
Ask how many owners its been through, if it has been a 1 or 2 person owned car it most likely has not had to much wear and tear, buuuut, there is always an occasional few out there to beat the stang to hell and back.
If it is a 5 speed, check 2nd and 3rd gear out quite a bit, see if you get any grinding while entering the gears.
If you do, the transmission has taken its fare share and more...
Stay away from it if at all possible, T5's suck for racing and are only capable of around 300 foot pounds of tq, they come stock with that to the fly wheel, so you wont be to far if you mod here and there..
I cant really think of to much more at the moment, a few nonsense things really.
But if I come up with more I will return.
Chris
O and yeah, the ashtray, that spring is broke lol.
I still do have my middle console between the seats and is in decent condition to, lil arm wear and tear on it, but most are broken already as they do not support much weight and using them for balance while jumping into the car does them in quick.
Also look for oil caps on the ground near the car when your lookin at it.
I was lookin at a stang for sale that smoked like no tomorrow and it had a fresh oil cap lying on the ground next to the car, man that guy was a moron to leave it there lol.
Valve cover gaskets, they leak alot when the car is old, most fox bodies will indeed leak and will need a replacing if they have not already been replaced.
My heater core hose(top) is busted and will be fixed soon probly.
It sprays nice coolant all down my bell housing and the back of my heads etc.
Check the air damn below the radiator, not a common occurence to be broken but if it is bent in and severly ripped, torn or even gone you will most likely be in need of a whole core support.
That piece wont be attainable without the whole core support assembly and it aids in directing air to the radiator so you dont overheat. IT IS A MUST HAVE! and yeah, mine is slightly bent from rolling off a trailer into 66th st and park blvd while doin like 20 mph. SUCK!
Check for damp floormats in front and rear to see if there are any up to date leaks in the windows up front or hatch if there is a hatch.
Ask how many owners its been through, if it has been a 1 or 2 person owned car it most likely has not had to much wear and tear, buuuut, there is always an occasional few out there to beat the stang to hell and back.
If it is a 5 speed, check 2nd and 3rd gear out quite a bit, see if you get any grinding while entering the gears.
If you do, the transmission has taken its fare share and more...
Stay away from it if at all possible, T5's suck for racing and are only capable of around 300 foot pounds of tq, they come stock with that to the fly wheel, so you wont be to far if you mod here and there..
I cant really think of to much more at the moment, a few nonsense things really.
But if I come up with more I will return.
Chris
Last edited by Goopster1; Aug 18, 2003 at 10:22 PM.
DA SLOW ONE
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 91
Likes: 0
79-85 are carbed
86-88 cars are speed density(sp) unless the last owner changed it over
89-93 are mass air
it matters when you plan on modding as speed density(sp) dont like many mods and not many people can/will tune them anymore
86-88 cars are speed density(sp) unless the last owner changed it over
89-93 are mass air
it matters when you plan on modding as speed density(sp) dont like many mods and not many people can/will tune them anymore
__________________
BAY AREA MUSTANGS
2004 Black Cobra
Mods= Amazon Racing Cold-Air, Mac Catted Prochamber, Mac 3" Catback
BAY AREA MUSTANGS
2004 Black Cobra
Mods= Amazon Racing Cold-Air, Mac Catted Prochamber, Mac 3" Catback
Cracka-Faced Cracka!
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 1,951
Likes: 0
if its a hatchback the trunk striker will probably need replacing...not a big deal, but will make the trunk very hard to close...part was $9 from blue oval.
**edit**
my map light AND my ashtray both still work.
**edit**
my map light AND my ashtray both still work.
__________________
AIM: AIMisGOOP
AIM: AIMisGOOP
Originally Posted by moldyhands
in the immortal words of the very wise Kid Rock, "3 foot tall with a 10 foot dick"
though for me, you'd have to change it to 10 inches, and you'd have to change inches to millimeters, and you'd have to change 10 to 5 and you'd have to change dick to poor excuse for one.
though for me, you'd have to change it to 10 inches, and you'd have to change inches to millimeters, and you'd have to change 10 to 5 and you'd have to change dick to poor excuse for one.
Registered User
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 1,762
Likes: 0
My 89 hatch had both.. the lil flop around light by the rear view.. and a regular light in the center of the roof.. BOTH WORKED! lol.
also if its a fox.. more than 90% of the time the door lock actuators are shot.. dont even bother with them.. just knock the 3 rivits out.. n make them manual.
also if its a fox.. more than 90% of the time the door lock actuators are shot.. dont even bother with them.. just knock the 3 rivits out.. n make them manual.
__________________
Sn95' Tripple Black Cobra
Mods:Heads/Cam/Intake/Exhaust...just your typical stock mustang...
Sn95' Tripple Black Cobra
Mods:Heads/Cam/Intake/Exhaust...just your typical stock mustang...
|-Resident LT1 Killer-|
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 7,677
Likes: 0
Originally posted by herrcomestrouble
My 89 hatch had both.. the lil flop around light by the rear view.. and a regular light in the center of the roof.. BOTH WORKED! lol.
also if its a fox.. more than 90% of the time the door lock actuators are shot.. dont even bother with them.. just knock the 3 rivits out.. n make them manual.
My 89 hatch had both.. the lil flop around light by the rear view.. and a regular light in the center of the roof.. BOTH WORKED! lol.
also if its a fox.. more than 90% of the time the door lock actuators are shot.. dont even bother with them.. just knock the 3 rivits out.. n make them manual.
Think its an actuator?
|-Resident LT1 Killer-|
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 7,677
Likes: 0
fox bodies(87-92) have Forged Pistons
Fox Bodies(1993 model only) have Hypereutectic (hyper-you-teck-tick) lol lil help to the people who are like wtf does that say?
Well in other words, they are not forged or 1 piece, they are cast which is the process of joining 2 pieces together at a certain point.
That certain point on them is a weak spot and will break much easier than a forged piece of metal.
It's highly advised to pick up an 87-92 and skip the 93 unless your not gonna race it because its not gonna like nitrous to much lol...
Fox Bodies(1993 model only) have Hypereutectic (hyper-you-teck-tick) lol lil help to the people who are like wtf does that say?
Well in other words, they are not forged or 1 piece, they are cast which is the process of joining 2 pieces together at a certain point.
That certain point on them is a weak spot and will break much easier than a forged piece of metal.
It's highly advised to pick up an 87-92 and skip the 93 unless your not gonna race it because its not gonna like nitrous to much lol...
