Light Titanium Metallic?
Whats up guys, I've been off the map for a while now... Just thought I'd stop by and post some pics of the latest project (no its not mine). I've dont have enough money to finish my Ranger right now or refinish the front of my Mustang yet (yeah I wrecked it about 6 months ago). So, that being said, for the last few months I've been helping my buddy sand and paint his '91 coupe he is making into a drag car. Thought I'd share some pictures of the progress. Now keep in mind, this is a race car. So the body work isnt perfect (but still pretty damn good) and he was not concerned with the slight discrepancy in color of painting a metallic in sections.
I decided to spray the trunk lid as a test panel to familiarize myself with the color, products, environment and my new Devillibiss Finishline 3.
Before Paint:


Basecoat Pictures:


now, on this picture I'm fogging the metallic in, thats why the gun is so far off the panel.

Final Basecoat Pics:





On to the Clear:




I decided to spray the trunk lid as a test panel to familiarize myself with the color, products, environment and my new Devillibiss Finishline 3.
Before Paint:


Basecoat Pictures:


now, on this picture I'm fogging the metallic in, thats why the gun is so far off the panel.

Final Basecoat Pics:





On to the Clear:




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A couple days later we taped off the front half of the car and sprayed it. It came out amazing, I couldn't have asked for a better job. I'll have sunlight pictures of the front coming Thursday. We plan to paint the back half Friday.
Before Paint:


Pouring Base into the gun:

Basecoat:







Clear:







Before Paint:


Pouring Base into the gun:

Basecoat:







Clear:







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Nope, its a buddy of mine's. Car is going to be sick whenever its finished. He's got a full UPR suspension kit, Aerospace brakes, Moser 35 spline full spool built rear, a dart block and a 76mm turbo waiting patiently for the body to be completed...
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Looks good! I have a suggestion tho, you should use paper when doing windows, and anything close to the surface your gonna base/ clear, because the plastic is made so paint won't adhere to it. So when the overspary from each coat builds up, then you go to clear and the air pressure blows paint chips/ dry overspray into you clear. Speaking from experience it fucks your day up real quick.
Looks good! I have a suggestion tho, you should use paper when doing windows, and anything close to the surface your gonna base/ clear, because the plastic is made so paint won't adhere to it. So when the overspary from each coat builds up, then you go to clear and the air pressure blows paint chips/ dry overspray into you clear. Speaking from experience it fucks your day up real quick.

I normally use Norton's plastic. Its treated on one side with a chemical that paint binds to. It wasn't used on this particular job, but I didnt have a problem with anything flaking off either. Low pressure gun, plus a tight job with the plastic and I've been fine. Still prefer the Norton's though.
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. Nice work








