4age=pwned
eats gunpowder
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Marksaccord = 20v
Mark Castro = 16v
Mark has a non-Toyota radiator, and he could get it to work in whatever orientation is needed.
It's still a daily for him, but neither he nor I will allow him to be one of those "I can't go drift because my car is broken, waa waa waa".
Mark Castro = 16v
Mark has a non-Toyota radiator, and he could get it to work in whatever orientation is needed.
It's still a daily for him, but neither he nor I will allow him to be one of those "I can't go drift because my car is broken, waa waa waa".
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BTTS, STFU&D
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hes always had the same 16v blue top. he just got some guy to make a manifold to he could get the gixxers to work. i think the best way to go would be either the 20v internals, or a setup like eagle/weisco. possibly bore over a bit, fully built red top head, ie hks cams, gears, jun over size valves. if the cams are gonna be real nasty with alot of lift, gotta call in some dual spring valve springs. simply retain the same itb setup, or possibly go for somthing with bigger throttle bodys. 20v steup or somthing. the reason for not having the red top block/internals is the heavyer pistons, sure you get more compression with the ae92 engine, but with heavyer (harder to rev) pistons than the blue top, its hardly noticable. really this is my dream motor if i were to get another 86. 20v black/silver top to me is to pricy and not really effective. those engines are nearly maxed out. think about it, 5 valves in a space around 3" inches in diameter, not much to play with. i like 4 valves, leaves room for more options. anyone ever see a 20v motor put out more than 350hp? its a much more responsive motor in factory form, but with a little work to a 16v hybrid, youll be past the level of the 20v still with space left over for more work.
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http://forums.toymods.org.au/index.p...t=0#msg_252320
"it is a cast steel and came with a pile of engines I bought from a local impoter that went bust"
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Garage/8422/4age.htm
"The 4AGZE has a cast steel crank..."
I could be wrong, but everything I have read has said the crank is cast
"it is a cast steel and came with a pile of engines I bought from a local impoter that went bust"
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Garage/8422/4age.htm
"The 4AGZE has a cast steel crank..."
I could be wrong, but everything I have read has said the crank is cast
Originally Posted by aphxero
VeRTigO: You shouldn't make comments if they aren't true. If it was a normal type of crank this wouldn't be so surprising. Remember the 4age is a race engine before it's a production engine.
Maybe you should stick to hondas?
Anyhow, here's a little info from Richard White:
4A-G Crank
The 4A-G crank is by all appearance a high performance piece of hardware. Unlike many production crankshafts which are nodular cast iron, the 4A-G is forged. It is a forged carbon steel, five main bearing, fully counter balanced affair. Each journal is cross drilled for 360-degree supply of oil to the connecting rod bearings, and each hole is chamfered to aid in oil delivery. An additional feature of the 4A-G crank is that each main bearing journal has rolled fillets to improve fatigue strength.
The transition between the main bearing surface and the crank counter weight and rod journal is subjected to very high torsion forces. Compressing the material around the transition, increases the strength and, therefore, the life of the crank. Other performance features include the use of a roller bearing (Toyota p/n 90363-12003) for the transmission pilot shaft (T50 Transmission only) and the use of eight 10mm fly-wheel bolts rather than the usual six that many engines of this size would normally have. This is contrary to Toyota’s illustrations in their own repair manuals typically showing six. And because there are no dowel pins to locate the flywheel position Toyota uses close fitting shoulder bolts. If the flywheel and crankshaft are fitted and torqued properly, all the stress (compression/friction) should be at the interface between the crankshaft and flywheel and the bolt’s shear strength is only needed if something in the system has failed. Rarely do you want a design that uses a fastener in a single shear plane. Bolts are at their best in tension.
Anyhow...
Maybe you should stick to hondas?
Anyhow, here's a little info from Richard White:
4A-G Crank
The 4A-G crank is by all appearance a high performance piece of hardware. Unlike many production crankshafts which are nodular cast iron, the 4A-G is forged. It is a forged carbon steel, five main bearing, fully counter balanced affair. Each journal is cross drilled for 360-degree supply of oil to the connecting rod bearings, and each hole is chamfered to aid in oil delivery. An additional feature of the 4A-G crank is that each main bearing journal has rolled fillets to improve fatigue strength.
The transition between the main bearing surface and the crank counter weight and rod journal is subjected to very high torsion forces. Compressing the material around the transition, increases the strength and, therefore, the life of the crank. Other performance features include the use of a roller bearing (Toyota p/n 90363-12003) for the transmission pilot shaft (T50 Transmission only) and the use of eight 10mm fly-wheel bolts rather than the usual six that many engines of this size would normally have. This is contrary to Toyota’s illustrations in their own repair manuals typically showing six. And because there are no dowel pins to locate the flywheel position Toyota uses close fitting shoulder bolts. If the flywheel and crankshaft are fitted and torqued properly, all the stress (compression/friction) should be at the interface between the crankshaft and flywheel and the bolt’s shear strength is only needed if something in the system has failed. Rarely do you want a design that uses a fastener in a single shear plane. Bolts are at their best in tension.
Anyhow...
yea sweet lemonade
Joined: Aug 2003
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dude, the only 4A to have a cast crank is the 4ac, all the others have a forged steel!! if you need proof then go to toysport.com/tech info. i have taken actual motors apart so i know what i'm talking about. sounds like you just read something on the internet. just remember you can't believe everything you read on the intrweb.
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