2013 pursuit battery drain.

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02-24-2019, 09:36 PM

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senor honda

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2013 pursuit battery drain.

mroberge82
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Location: brewerton ny
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2013 pursuit battery drain

I have a 13 pursuit hemi rwd. If the car sits 36 to 48 hours the battery goes flat. I replaced the battery and checked the car running and not running for volts and it seems the charging systems works. Have any other pursuit owners had this problem?

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02-24-2019, 09:42 PM

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senor honda

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If I was in your situation, I would start checking at the fuse box to see what circuit was pulling power. Once you locate it, you can then figure out what is on that circuit to help narrow down what is running power.

Check the actual draw across each live circuit. Some are always hot but the current draw should be very small, in the milliamps. From the sound of things I'd guess you're looking for a draw of around 1 amp, maybe more, providing you have a beefy Group 49/H8 Pursuit battery in good shape.

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02-24-2019, 09:44 PM

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senor honda

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Originally Posted by mroberge
that would make sense to try but arent some circuits always hot?

Post the running and not running voltage that you read across the battery.
Next, to determine what - and how much - is drawing excessive off current, you have to get the ammeter inline with the battery. That means with the trunk and hood open, you have to take car of dealing with the latch front and rear so no lights are on. Measure current after car goes into

shutdown. Should be less than 100 ma after a few minutes. Like the other user said, you're looking at likely over an amp. Then start pulling fuses one at a time until current drops to nearly nothing. After each is verified not it, drop it back in place without pushing so you don't mix them up.

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02-24-2019, 09:45 PM

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senor honda

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Yes. That is one way. They way I was suggesting was to get it in series - amp mode - with the negative terminal of the battery. That way you see what the battery does. Need to start out with a jumper across the meter leads to avoid blowing the fuse in the meter from the little surge that happens from the caps in everything. Make sure lights all go off and computers shut down, then pull jumper so meter sees all. Then start pulling fuses.

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02-24-2019, 09:47 PM

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senor honda

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Originally Posted by mroberge82

Well Im at a loss now. My multimeter reads a constant 1.14 to 1.17 ma hooked to the battery in the trunk. Under the hood it starts at .61 but climbs to .78 and stays there. I tricked the trunk and hood into thinkning they are closed and proceeded to pull every fuse and relay in the trunk box, the after market police box in the trunk and the box behind the pass headlight. I never had it drop in reading and once got a spike to 1.20 when I put a larger fuse back in but then it settled at 1.17 again.
What now???????

Aftermarket police box? What is in it? What does it do? My experience with aftermarket stuff is that it's crap. I'd focus on that. If it's not necessary, eliminate it and put things back to factory. There's a good chance something in there might be your issue.

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02-24-2019, 09:48 PM

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senor honda

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1.17 ma? How have you got the meter connected? In series with the battery? 1.17 ma isn't even close to the normal 50 ma or so. If in series with the battery, and using the current shunt in the meter, you should be able to open the door in the car, and the lights should come on. You should see a draw of a couple of amps. If no lights, then you are not measuring current. Happy to help guide you, but those numbers indicate something is wrong with your setup.

Take a picture of the meter, and where you have the leads connected.

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02-24-2019, 09:49 PM

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senor honda

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Originally Posted by mroberge82

Im not 100% sure if im using it right but my dial is set to mA black lead is in COM port and red lead is in port with a lot of symbols one of which is mA. the only other port I have is gray and says 10A.
as for the extra fuse box, its on the pass side wall of trunk. I think its dedicated to the controller for police functions only. (spot light, lap top, computer cooling fan etc...)

Pictures of your setup will help. How did you get it in series with the battery to the car? With the meter in series, and if you let the trunk or interior lights come on, do they and what sort of current do you see then?

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02-24-2019, 09:50 PM

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senor honda

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this is how I have it set up but maybe its wrong. As I opened the door nothing would turn on.hopefully the pictures shows thank you for the help.

You have it right. I'm not used to meters that you could put a short (fused) across the "normal" leads by rotating the selector to a current range. It is possible that the low range fuse is blown. Even the act of putting the meter in series could blow that likely 1/2 amp fuse.

With the meter in series with the terminal, will the interior lights light? If not, then the meter fuse is likely blown. Move on to the 10 amp range - black meter lead in center, red in left. Same deal, meter in series. Make sure lights in car light. Meter in "A" mode should show a few amps. Now do what you need to to get everything to shut down while you have the meter in series. If you read like 3 amps with the interior lights on- a guess - when it settles down, it should show "quiet" load. Should be less than maybe 200 ma.

In any event, if you get a valid current, you can calculate how long it will take to kill the battery from full charge. Battery is supposed to be 80 AH, but use 60 since multiple discharges probably have reduced capacity. use 60 divided by current read. So, if you read 1 amp, it's 60/1 - 60 hours to dead. If 100ma, then 60/.1 or 600 hours to dead or 25 days - 600 hours / 24 hours in a day.

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02-24-2019, 09:52 PM

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senor honda

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Ol*Geezer2018

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Totally agree with what Bobw said....You have no current flow at all, Blown meter fuse...As bob said...switch over to "amp" reading...[grey] jack on meter...Recheck that interior lights now are on...then proceed as he said...Later on,. replace the lite duty meter fuse...Can test it by switching to OHMS and touching both meter leads together...should show zero..

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02-24-2019, 09:52 PM

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senor honda

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Originally Posted by Bobw

You have it right. I'm not used to meters that you could put a short (fused) across the "normal" leads by rotating the selector to a current range. It is possible that the low range fuse is blown. Even the act of putting the meter in series could blow that likely 1/2 amp fuse.

With the meter in series with the terminal, will the interior lights light? If not, then the meter fuse is likely blown. Move on to the 10 amp range - black meter lead in center, red in left. Same deal, meter in series. Make sure lights in car light. Meter in "A" mode should show a few amps.

Now do what you need to to get everything to shut down while you have the meter in series. If you read like 3 amps with the interior lights on- a guess - when it settles down, it should show "quiet" load. Should be less than maybe 200 ma.

In any event, if you get a valid current, you can calculate how long it will take to kill the battery from full charge. Battery is supposed to be 80 AH, but use 60 since multiple discharges probably have reduced capacity. use 60 divided by current read. So, if you read 1 amp, it's 60/1 - 60 hours to dead. If 100ma, then 60/.1 or 600 hours to dead or 25 days - 600 hours / 24 hours in a day.

This is very good advice on narrowing it down. You brought a good point of the system showing a "quiet" load. I'm wondering if there is something that is intermittently 'coming on' and then going off back into the quiet mode again. Quite possibly some long term m

onitoring could be in play here to identify what is going on. This is where a good scan tool would be helpful here. Electrical gremlins are the worst.

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