You're mixing 2 different concepts. Direct injection engines have the baked oil problem on the intake valves - we do not.


In our 5.7L MDS Hemi engines, the vaporized oil is drawn through the PCV and into the intake manifold (no real heat to speak of), but some oil vapors collect and condense on the intake runners and don't get drawn into the cylinders to be blown out the exhaust after combustion. What happens is these droplets eventually build up enough to become 'fluid' which moves with the motion of your driving.


What some people will experience, upon slowing to a stop (deceleration) is a lagging/surging of the engine. Many people believe (me included) that the surging is caused by liquid oil pouring off the intake runner and into the cylinders.


I didn't like the behavior, so I installed a catch can - it catches 2-3 ounces of oil a month on average (1200 miles), but mine is a 2008 with 94k miles on it.

 

 

 

 

#3 I am a self proclaimed expert in....

If decent oil - QS, PZ, M1, etc change it when it says 0 life or reaches 10k since last change. I get a bit over 8500 miles on mine. There's nothing that actually analyses oil condition. It's based on stuff like speed, idle, temperature. Oil life counter will go down less if you drive 500 miles at 70 MPH, than if you drive 500 miles stop and go. As far as the sticker, it probably says much less. Manual says exactly what I did. Oil change places - dealer or otherwise - like to see you sooner for profit motive.

Those engines typically hover around 200 degrees for "normal" driving highway or around town. Coolant will be close to oil temp, and transmission will usually be around 180 or so during 70 or so weather - all again as long as you are not doing anything stressful. Transmission may be lower at highway speeds.

#3 ... Oil pressure. I lived through learning that FCA - Dodge - Chrysler - doesn't give a crap about owners. Brand new car with a bad oil pump right from the factory. On a 3.6, when cold, oil pressure will be around 80-99 PSI when accelerating. So over about 2500 rpm when cold, you'll see the oil pressure peg out at 99 psi, and then drop to like 60. Two stage oil pump.

When warm - over 155 degrees oil temp - you will see the "sudden drop" rpm coming down where if you exceed that, oil pressure will drop about 30 psi. When fully warmed up, during cinstant speed driving, where you are around 1500 RPM or so, the oil pressure will probably hover around 40 psi. Put it to it, and you'll see the pressure rise, and then drop 30 psi or so at about 4000 rpm.

Simple answer... Fully warmed, normal driving... Around 40 psi. If it never goes below 60 psi, then you have an oil pump issue like mine, but it will throw a CEL also.

 

I've had a catch can on my car since I got it with 20k miles. I check it every few thousand miles and it always has something in it, even using quantum blue oil. Anything it catches is crap that's not going through your engine, so yes I'd say it's worth it.
----------------------
I got the billet tech one on sale at one point. I think there are a couple other companies that make them. There are universal ones on the internet too, but they're harder to mount.
------------------------

 

Not having one will not kill you. I believe it was stated the reason why dodge did not offer one was due to added user end maintence. They know most folks won't or can't do such a thing when they should.

However, having seen my intake runners, and intake I look forward to getting one in the future. I do see a decent amount of oil residue on the runners.
---------------------------

I can't say it is bad from a function stand point. But when you pull the intake there is oil around every intake port and the seals/gaskets are wet.
My 3.3 v6 has some oil in there when I've pulled the intake but I never felt it was as much. Then again it may now with 257K miles.
Next time I pull the intake I try to get a photo.
-----------------------------I ordered the Black, stock looking one with the inside filter and the bottom unscrews for emptying.
$17...no shipping. I may make a replica Mopar part number sticker for the casual observer.

 

Universal-Racing-Baffled-Aluminum-2-port-Oil-Catch-Can-Tank-Air-oil-Separator-GW

It has 2 ports, baffled inside, bronze filter , bottom unscrews to empty, can screw in a drain hose if too lazy to unscrew it to empty it.
Billet machined, all hardware. Some sellers want $7.50 just for the bracket. I will unscrew it......drain hose will get oil on my car
and Mopar would not have one with a drain.


Search ebay: Seller information

mywindowworld568 use my second line for the description. Some sellers are charging $85 for the same thing.

I wanted one that looked like it would come from Mopar....will mount it at back of engine and use same rubber/plastic hose that Mopar uses.
Will put on a Mopar part number sticker in the appropriate place.