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BR9 police brake upgrade

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Old 01-11-2019, 09:49 PM
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Default BR9 police brake upgrade

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Old 01-31-2019, 01:29 AM
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So just ordered the parts:Front Left Caliper 18B5497Front Pads Z371767Rear Pads Z371766Front Rotors AR83092XPRRear Rotors AR8371XPR from Rockauto.com @ $498.39Brake Hoses 68232484AA & 68257661AAShields 68217407AA & 68217406AABolts x2 6512405AA from Mymoparparts.com @ $148.93Front Right Caliper 18B5496Rear Left Caliper 18B5510Rear Right Caliper 18B5511 from thewrenchmonkey.ca @ $409.49So less than $1200 total. You guys were right in how hard it was to find some of those rotors, some places said they had it in stock up until you checked out and then poof gone. Hopefully I didn't miss anything, and everything shows up in a timely manner.
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Old 02-05-2019, 07:36 PM
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From Krautmaster


“Lots of differences in the brake packages and how much swept area they have:

SE/SXT BR3 package: Front 210 sq in / Rear 264 sq in
R/T BR5 package: Front 249 sq in / Rear 264 sq in
4 Piston Brembo: Front 351 sq in / Rear 316 sq in
Pursuit BR9: Front 388 sq in / Rear 300 sq in
6 Piston Brembo: Front 424 sq in / Rear 316 sq in

So the BR9 Police Package falls in between the two Brembo packages, and is nearly twice the area of the BR3 package that came on the car, and a massive upgrade over the R/T brakes... WOW”





Plus the BR9 are direct bolt on. No need for new spindles unlike a Brembo upgrade would need. Also could use 17” wheels w the BR9 brakes. For brembos you’ll need 20x9 and up
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Last edited by senor honda; 02-05-2019 at 07:40 PM.
Old 04-20-2019, 01:39 PM
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georgiapiSenior Member




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Posts: 1834/20/19


Got everything on and bled.

Damp drizzle going on here, waiting for light traffic hours tomorrow AM to bed them in.
Normally because of past experience I just drive brakes in easy for a couple hundred miles but I decided to have a conversation with Power Stop and was convinced to do it without delay, meaning the sooner the better.

I tried one of my 18" chrome clads and it went on with more room to spare than the wheel krautmaster tried but had fun nicking up my caliper paint job getting it on. If money was an object I may have went with the 18's and there was at least 4mm clearance and I had no weights to roll by it. Still too close for me to risk it. I like my 20's and Generals more anyways.
  • The weight penalty is 27lbs per corner. I weighed everything and amazingly, give or take an ounce or two they were all in the 9 pound difference from one another, Rotors, Calipers, and wheel/tire combos. I have a 0-110# hanging scale.
  • Put her in the air. The following happened in steps over several days as parts came in.
  • Cracked the RR bleeder so I could use my carpet kicker to hold the brake pedal an inch or so depressed to close off the reservoir ports avoiding gravity or siphoning. Closed the bleeder.
  • Removed hoses putting a cap over the front metal feed tubing and the rear by using a bolt and the used copper washers to seal off the banjos'.
  • Removed all the calipers and rotors.
  • Installed speed bleeders on the BR9 calipers.
  • Installed the Rotors and calipers. Rotors were held in place using OE capped lug nuts with the crowns ground off and reversed.
  • Installed front hoses, what a joy, amazing how they have them configured to go on and route with no torque twist. Nice.
  • Rear lines are Stoptech SS braided and new coppers washers used in the reinstall.
  • (Note = The MOPAR Front Big Brake Kit included hardware consists of new adapter bolts and copper washers. One is assumed to use the BR5 banjo bolts but I didn't have mine because I had SS braided lines. As luck would have it the Centric BR9 rear calipers came with new banjo bolts & washers so I moved them to the front and used new washers in my rear braided line banjo bolts. So I'm OE plumbed up front and braided at the rears.
  • Installed calipers and lines, pumped out and refilled the reservoir and made several bleeding rounds using up 1.5ltrs of Prestone Synthetic DOT3. Man what a pedal, even with new pads that I'm sure are not mated perfectly flat I have a mean pedal.
  • (Speed Bleeders) Something to note about speed bleeders is they are not meant to be used in several sessions without reapplying the thread compound. And to keep the thread seal reliable only back them away from the seats 1/4-turn. And don't get crazy legs pumping. When you install new ones they take some effort to thread in and to back off. After a session or two if they back off easily its a sign they need more compound. Just use them as OE bleeders until you can retreat them. I change fluid yearly so I get three years per set and keep two sets per vehicle. All speed bleeders are not equal. The Doorman branded with the red compound will have you disbelieving in them. Order from Speed Bleeder for the best bet.
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Old 04-29-2019, 01:54 AM
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24 APR
I doubt they will work better at all...most of the "black" semi-metallic pads are only rated FE or FF, while the Top Cop pads are rated GG, eg: better coefficient of friction (grip) when cold and hot,

http://www.federatedautoparts.com/Do...s/S001E005.pdf

DOT Pad Codes
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Old 04-29-2019, 01:55 AM
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I see. It may take a while but when these wear out I'll be trying them. I ran Raybestos Police pads and can tell you they bite and are hard to make fade. I couldn't find the rating on them.

Right now this BR9 /Top Cop pad combo are getting better and better by the mile
The pedal travel or pressure to braking power ratio keeps getting better. And tonight I started feeling more of the rears coming in.
As for dust there is a light haze if you look for it. I like how the front pads contact the rotor almost edge to edge not wasting any available sweep area.
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Old 04-29-2019, 01:55 AM
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I doubt they will work better at all...most of the "black" semi-metallic pads are only rated FE or FF, while the Top Cop pads are rated GG, eg: better coefficient of friction (grip) when cold and hot.This old dog is still learning new stuff. Love it, Thanks for this. Very Much.

Attached are the numbers from my Mopar BR9 front kit pads. I assume the AK is Akebono?
Now a wrench is tossed into my cogs. No sense getting blackened for a lesser coefficient. I wonder what the Raybestos Police Pads are.Attached Thumbnails
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Old 04-29-2019, 01:56 AM
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Man I had to hunt all over *ell and back to find out the Raybestos Police Pads are only FE rated! (upside down pic in brochure on page 5 shows them)

http://www.rokbrothers.com/uploads/R...p7_2-13-09.pdf

Bendix Police Pads are also FEAttached Thumbnails
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Old 04-29-2019, 01:57 AM
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Unless circuit racing the car where you would want GG or HH hardware, FF/FE is good for doing poser high speed pursuit driving in the neighborhood.
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Old 04-29-2019, 01:58 AM
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Originally Posted by krautmasterMan I had to hunt all over *ell and back to find out the Raybestos Police Pads are only FE rated! (upside down pic in brochure on page 5 shows them) http://www.rokbrothers.com/uploads/Raybestos_Police_Brochure_wip7_2-13-09.pdf Bendix Police Pads are also FENice, thanks I was curious about them and did a little digging but not enough. I ran those and their Advanced Technology and they both dusted black and were fade resistant but man they were rotor hungry. The advanced technology are supposed to be ceramic but I worked them hard enough to have particles embed into my painted aftermarket wheels (on another vehicle).

Quote:once you get used to GG you will NEVER go back!!Another 60 miles tonight on the BR9 & GG pads and all alone on a long steep off ramp I decided to brake late and mercy, its like she said "is that all you got?"
My rotors are still showing the machined cross hatching with a slight amber hue. I called Power Stop & StopTech to talk about bedding because of it and was told its dependent on vehicle weight and Rotor Pad combo. 40-10mph on different weights will generate different temps.
Then I confessed (to StopTech) I felt 40-10 and 35-5mph didn't do anything, no feedback, smell, or smoke and I later in the same day did five 70-20mph and three 50-20mph, discontinuing because I achieved a smoke puff and they said not problem I should be good to go.

She's still breaking in.
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