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Weird idling due to a mod?

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Old 09-17-2018, 11:42 PM
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Default Weird idling due to a mod?

Weird idling due to a mod?I just recently purchased a 2007 Dodge Charger (yay) and whomever was the pervious owner on it didn't drive it much but he did do a mod under the hood. it's a simple 3.5L v6 but the previous owner added an AEM Brute Force air intake. However a friend of mind noticed that when my Car is idling the idle sometimes drops low for a moment then picks back up again, and it'll do it once every 2 minutes or so, sometimes even at a stop light I'll notice it. I was wondering if the odd idle was cause of the intake not matching up properly with the engine or if it's something else. I was thinking if it is the Air intake maybe I need to change the fuel injectors to help match it up ? I know sometimes a CAI can actually have a reverse effect for the engine but I think positioning of it should be bad, as it extends down to the driver side front of the vehicle. Pretty much as far away from the Engine as it possible can while under the hood.
Also the previous owner added on a after market exhaust from a single tip to a split pipe If that has anything to do with it either
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Old 09-17-2018, 11:43 PM
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Quote:Originally Posted by FunkapotimusI just recently purchased a 2007 Dodge Charger (yay) and whomever was the pervious owner on it didn't drive it much but he did do a mod under the hood. it's a simple 3.5L v6 but the previous owner added an AEM Brute Force air intake. However a friend of mind noticed that when my Car is idling the idle sometimes drops low for a moment then picks back up again, and it'll do it once every 2 minutes or so, sometimes even at a stop light I'll notice it. I was wondering if the odd idle was cause of the intake not matching up properly with the engine or if it's something else. I was thinking if it is the Air intake maybe I need to change the fuel injectors to help match it up ?
Also the previous owner added on a after market exhaust from a single tip to a split pipe
The modified exhaust is fine, the engine doesn’t care about it in terms of idling. If anything it might be breathing a little easier with that non-stock exhaust if not as restrictive as stock setup.

The aftermarket air intake is also theoretically an acceptable mod for that engine, and it does not require, nor would it benefit from, different fuel injectors being installed. The stock injectors can spray more gas than the engine could ever burn, even when it’s ingesting the absolute maximum amount of air that it possibly can at WOT.

Different injectors might be necessary if you had forced induction on the engine (turbo, super charger, nitrous) to feed it more air than normal atmospheric pressure can normally force into the combustion chambers, but the stock ones are fine as long as the engine remains naturally aspirated.

That does not mean the aftermarket air intake is not the culprit here though. In fact, I suspect that it is causing the erratic idle, even if inadvertently. It’s the first thing I would check if it were mine anyway. You should start your troubleshooting with it and it’s components either way, attempting to rule it out as the cause so you can move on and find what is causing the idle issues.

First, take the whole thing off the engine and completely disassemble it for inspection. It should only have a couple major pieces (intake tube, air box, and filter) and a few smaller ones (filter, clamps, elbow sleeves, breather hose), so a complete disassembly isn’t that difficult to do, but it is absolutely required to be able to rule it out as your cause (or find the proof that it is guilty of something).

Once apart, carefully inspect every joint, junction, and connection point on the device where it supposed have an air tight seal with some other part or piece. You are looking for signs that it is no longer sealing at one of these spots and thereby allowing the engine to suck in unfiltered air. Small dust trails of very fine dust will be a dead giveaway that an air leak has formed somewhere, and they are more common than anyone wants to admit on the aftermarket air intake systems like this.

Pay very close attention to the air filter element itself, especially where the element and wire structure are connected together. I have seen those types of filters develop leaks there from inadequate or too much epoxy being used during manufacturing assembly. Again, look for faint dusting on the surfaces adjacent to the join-surfaces to identify potential leak spots.

Also inspect the areas on the intake hose where the hose clamps normally reside. After a lot of miles and time, that rubber hose will begin to deteriorate and break down to the point of becoming brittle and prone to leaking under the stress of the (usually overtightened) hose clamps.

If you go over the intake system and cannot find evidence of an air leak, time to focus on the intake plenum that the air tube was attached to. It has several hoses and pipes that connect to the back of it, under the windshield cowl, and they are all supposed to be air tight too. But they will develop leaks as their hoses age and start to harden up. The EGR pipe connection point is especially bad about leaking if it has ever been disconnected and reconnected (like for a spark plug replacement).

The gasket between that intake plenum itself and the engine block can develop a leak as well, so that would be my next point of inspection if none of the rest panned out.

By now you might notice that are getting elbow deep into the engine, and as such you should consider changing things out that will be easily accessed during all this, which is likely required anyway if normal maintenance schedule is being followed.

New spark plugs, new PCV valve, serpentine belt, idler pulley, belt tensioner, a cleaned out intake plenum, etc...

Depending on many miles the engine has and how well the previous owner took care of it (or didn’t, hard to know without finding out for yourself), those things and more are due for replacing/cleaning and should not be ignored lest erratic idling becomes the least of your problems.

Don’t forget the timing belt, its tensioner, and the water pump either. Those are supposed to be changed every 100K miles, as is the engine coolant. Granted none of those are likely to be causing your idle problems, but if any of those are left too long in service, you could lose the engine for good with little or no warning.

But I digest...

How many miles are on the engine? If > 100K, you have a lot of maintenance services to consider performing while chasing this idle issue. My advice would be to buy a 2005-2010 Dodge LX Chilton’s Manual from Amazon or a local auto parts store and start making a list of what needs to be done and what can wait.

That manual will have some generic steps you can try to calm an erratic idle, but don’t put too much hope in the troubleshooting section of those manuals. Their one-size fits all approach to covering as many applications as possible doesn’t lend itself to being very useful when out to the test on the average joe’s broken vehicle.

One last tip: go to [MyCarFax]DOT[com] and create a (free) account there, providing this Charger’s VIN as part of the account sign up. That will allow you to see any of the vehicle’s service history that has been reported to the CarFax company.

You may find no entries at all, in which case you’re no worst off than you were before. But you could get lucky and find the previous owner took the car to places that reported their work and you’ll have a good idea of how well the car was maintained as well as if any severe problems or damage was in its past (and may need to be dealt with again).

Pretty good for free!

Gert
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Old 09-17-2018, 11:44 PM
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Quote:Originally Posted by GertFrobeThe modified exhaust is fine, the engine doesn’t care about it in terms of idling. If anything it might be breathing a little easier with that non-stock exhaust if not as restrictive as stock setup.

The aftermarket air intake is also theoretically an acceptable mod for that engine, and it does not require, nor would it benefit from, different fuel injectors being installed. The stock injectors can spray more gas than the engine could ever burn, even when it’s ingesting the absolute maximum amount of air that it possibly can at WOT.

Different injectors might be necessary if you had forced induction on the engine (turbo, super charger, nitrous) to feed it more air than normal atmospheric pressure can normally force into the combustion chambers, but the stock ones are fine as long as the engine remains naturally aspirated.

That does not mean the aftermarket air intake is not the culprit here though. In fact, I suspect that it is causing the erratic idle, even if inadvertently. It’s the first thing I would check if it were mine anyway. You should start your troubleshooting with it and it’s components either way, attempting to rule it out as the cause so you can move on and find what is causing the idle issues.

First, take the whole thing off the engine and completely disassemble it for inspection. It should only have a couple major pieces (intake tube, air box, and filter) and a few smaller ones (filter, clamps, elbow sleeves, breather hose), so a complete disassembly isn’t that difficult to do, but it is absolutely required to be able to rule it out as your cause (or find the proof that it is guilty of something).

Once apart, carefully inspect every joint, junction, and connection point on the device where it supposed have an air tight seal with some other part or piece. You are looking for signs that it is no longer sealing at one of these spots and thereby allowing the engine to suck in unfiltered air. Small dust trails of very fine dust will be a dead giveaway that an air leak has formed somewhere, and they are more common than anyone wants to admit on the aftermarket air intake systems like this.

Pay very close attention to the air filter element itself, especially where the element and wire structure are connected together. I have seen those types of filters develop leaks there from inadequate or too much epoxy being used during manufacturing assembly. Again, look for faint dusting on the surfaces adjacent to the join-surfaces to identify potential leak spots.

Also inspect the areas on the intake hose where the hose clamps normally reside. After a lot of miles and time, that rubber hose will begin to deteriorate and break down to the point of becoming brittle and prone to leaking under the stress of the (usually overtightened) hose clamps.

If you go over the intake system and cannot find evidence of an air leak, time to focus on the intake plenum that the air tube was attached to. It has several hoses and pipes that connect to the back of it, under the windshield cowl, and they are all supposed to be air tight too. But they will develop leaks as their hoses age and start to harden up. The EGR pipe connection point is especially bad about leaking if it has ever been disconnected and reconnected (like for a spark plug replacement).

The gasket between that intake plenum itself and the engine block can develop a leak as well, so that would be my next point of inspection if none of the rest panned out.

By now you might notice that are getting elbow deep into the engine, and as such you should consider changing things out that will be easily accessed during all this, which is likely required anyway if normal maintenance schedule is being followed.

New spark plugs, new PCV valve, serpentine belt, idler pulley, belt tensioner, a cleaned out intake plenum, etc...

Depending on many miles the engine has and how well the previous owner took care of it (or didn’t, hard to know without finding out for yourself), those things and more are due for replacing/cleaning and should not be ignored lest erratic idling becomes the least of your problems.

Don’t forget the timing belt, its tensioner, and the water pump either. Those are supposed to be changed every 100K miles, as is the engine coolant. Granted none of those are likely to be causing your idle problems, but if any of those are left too long in service, you could lose the engine for good with little or no warning.

But I digest...

How many miles are on the engine? If > 100K, you have a lot of maintenance services to consider performing while chasing this idle issue. My advice would be to buy a 2005-2010 Dodge LX Chilton’s Manual from Amazon or a local auto parts store and start making a list of what needs to be done and what can wait.

That manual will have some generic steps you can try to calm an erratic idle, but don’t put too much hope in the troubleshooting section of those manuals. Their one-size fits all approach to covering as many applications as possible doesn’t lend itself to being very useful when out to the test on the average joe’s broken vehicle.

One last tip: go to [MyCarFax]DOT[com] and create a (free) account there, providing this Charger’s VIN as part of the account sign up. That will allow you to see any of the vehicle’s service history that has been reported to the CarFax company.

You may find no entries at all, in which case you’re no worst off than you were before. But you could get lucky and find the previous owner took the car to places that reported their work and you’ll have a good idea of how well the car was maintained as well as if any severe problems or damage was in its past (and may need to be dealt with again).

Pretty good for free!

Gert
Something else did come to mind, but would the engine computer need to be updated to say it now running with such and such an intake instead of a stock, could that be a solution aswell? Was reading up on that, but most people say if that's a problem I'd get a check engine light, which I don't have on.

The car is still really new, it only has 106 300 km on it. Or about 66 000 miles on it.
And to make sure I'm following right, I pull off the intake and run the vehicle in idle to still see if it bogs without it on ? I am a bit confused about going into the intake Plenum however.

still a newbie here so I can't put a picture here ye tbut my intake it's literally just a straight pipe with a filter, nothing else. can go to the AEM site put my car model ( 2007 charger 3.5) there and go into the PDF installation and you'll see how it sits if you wanna see what I mean



For the Carfax thing, the used dealership I got the car from had the log of what was actually logged, the aftermarket exhaust and AEM pieces weren't in the logs, but the aftermarket front bumper change was, and then outside of that was just standard vehicle maintenance logs, Oil, brakes, shocks, and then the dealership changed a tie rod bearing. I do have the Car manual aswell and in the back of the book it even shows at around what milage should be changed on the vehicle and such, and by the looks of it, it was all well kept.


Worse comes to worse I do have a garage about 10 minutes away from where I live that they almost specifically work on modded cars, dyno tuning and all. Could inquire them if inspecting the piece does me no good.
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Old 09-17-2018, 11:45 PM
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Quote:Originally Posted by Funkapotimus Something else did come to mind, but would the engine computer need to be updated to say it now running with such and such an intake instead of a stock, could that be a solution aswell? Was reading up on that, but most people say if that's a problem I'd get a check engine light, which I don't have on.
If you were trying to squeeze every drop of performance out of the engine when running it at WOT, the engine’s tune would need to be modified to take into account the air flow characteristics of the non-stock intake system. In other words, the computer doesn’t really care about the non-stock air intake because it can compensate for the difference in airflow on its own (by monitoring the oxygen sensors and adjusting gas accordingly) when operating at less than full throttle (WOT).
Quote:Originally Posted by Funkapotimus The car is still really new, it only has 106 300 km on it. Or about 66 000 miles on it.
And to make sure I'm following right, I pull off the intake and run the vehicle in idle to still see if it bogs without it on ? I am a bit confused about going into the intake Plenum however.

still a newbie here so I can't put a picture here ye tbut my intake it's literally just a straight pipe with a filter, nothing else. can go to the AEM site put my car model ( 2007 charger 3.5) there and go into the PDF installation and you'll see how it sits if you wanna see what I mean
You should never try to run the engine without something in place to filter the air it is breathing in. Also, on a computer controlled vehicle such as yours, starting it and letting it idle with no air intake on it would likely result in all manner of codes being thrown and the Check Engine light illuminating on the dash.

What I was detailing in my last post was removing the AFE stuff with the engine off and just inspecting the AFE device after taking it off and disassembling it.

So while I’m thinking about it, I meant to ask before if you are running the air conditioner or defroster when this behavior is heard. If you have either of those on while listening to it idling up and down, turn them off and see if that stops the erratic behavior.

The engine will idle up a little when the air conditioner compressor kicks on, and it will idle back down when the compressor kicks off. So if the compressor is cycling on and off more than it usually would, you could perceive that as a problem with it idling when it’s actually behaving the way it is supposed to (but the reason for the fast cycling of the compressor would still need to found eventually).
Quote:Originally Posted by Funkapotimus For the Carfax thing, the used dealership I got the car from had the log of what was actually logged, the aftermarket exhaust and AEM pieces weren't in the logs, but the aftermarket front bumper change was, and then outside of that was just standard vehicle maintenance logs, Oil, brakes, shocks, and then the dealership changed a tie rod bearing. I do have the Car manual aswell and in the back of the book it even shows at around what milage should be changed on the vehicle and such, and by the looks of it, it was all well kept.
I would still suggest checking out the CarFax page mention earlier. They have a pretty useful app available that makes it a breeze to keep track of all the stuff you do to the car or have done by someone else, and you would need to create an account on that page to use the app.
Quote:Originally Posted by Funkapotimus View PostWorse comes to worse I do have a garage about 10 minutes away from where I live that they almost specifically work on modded cars, dyno tuning and all. Could inquire them if inspecting the piece does me no good.
They could certainly investigate for you, but the cause of your issue is likely within the wheelhouse of just about any mechanic shop that has good mechanics. You won’t need any specialized services to find and fix it IMO.

Here is a post of mine from another forum where I list out some of the regular maintenance services you might want to do (or have done) to your car. While you are not at the 100K mile limit that marks the end of the parts’ service lives, you are well past the 5 year limit that goes along with that 100K number. So if those things listed in that post have not been done to your car yet, you should look into having them done pretty soon, or you risk premature breakage from failure due to age.

http://www.challengertalk.com/forums...0/#post7700450
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Last edited by senor honda; 09-17-2018 at 11:48 PM.
Old 09-17-2018, 11:46 PM
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Originally Posted by GertFrobe
So while I’m thinking about it, I meant to ask before if you are running the air conditioner or defroster when this behavior is heard. If you have either of those on while listening to it idling up and down, turn them off and see if that stops the erratic behavior.

The engine will idle up a little when the air conditioner compressor kicks on, and it will idle back down when the compressor kicks off. So if the compressor is cycling on and off more than it usually would, you could perceive that as a problem with it idling when it’s actually behaving the way it is supposed to (but the reason for the fast cycling of the compressor would still need to found eventually).
Yeh I made sure everything was turned off completely in the car while the odd idling happens, no heat, no a/c, not even the fan running, just the engine.
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Last edited by senor honda; 09-17-2018 at 11:49 PM.
Old 09-17-2018, 11:47 PM
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Quote:Originally Posted by Funkapotimus
Quote:Originally Posted by GertFrobe
So while I’m thinking about it, I meant to ask before if you are running the air conditioner or defroster when this behavior is heard. If you have either of those on while listening to it idling up and down, turn them off and see if that stops the erratic behavior.

The engine will idle up a little when the air conditioner compressor kicks on, and it will idle back down when the compressor kicks off. So if the compressor is cycling on and off more than it usually would, you could perceive that as a problem with it idling when it’s actually behaving the way it is supposed to (but the reason for the fast cycling of the compressor would still need to found eventually).
Yeh I made sure everything was turned off completely in the car while the odd idling happens, no heat, no a/c, not even the fan running, just the engine.
Well it was worth a try. The problem is likely a vacuum leak somewhere in the upper part of the engine. My 3.5L did the same thing, and I can’t remover if I fixed it by reinstalling the factory intake setup or siliconing the EGR tube. One or the other (EGR tube and aftermarket CAI) was always leaking, so both could have fixed it.

Ultimately you could just choose to live with it. That’s not the best option since there could be dust getting into the engine if unfiltered air is being burned, and dust in the combustion chambers means there will be dust in the oil, and that can lead to premature wear on the engine’s internal surfaces being lubricated by that oil.

Will that cause the engine to die before it would normally? Probably not, but it could lead to a gradual loss of compression over the years. But then again, how long do you reaslistically expect to keep the car.
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Last edited by senor honda; 09-17-2018 at 11:49 PM.
Old 09-17-2018, 11:50 PM
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As long as you are not operating it in an extremely dusty environment the majority of the time, it’s probably not a huge deal to go all out on getting fixed. That is assuming it is a vacuum leak.

If you were in a dusty environment most of the time, like West Texas for example, I would say the sooner you can fix it (again, assuming it is a vacuum leak) the better. Otherwise it can slide down the list of priorities for things to spend money on fixing or maintaining on the car.
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50's Diner US19.... A Florida Attraction.
1730 US-19, Holiday Fl 34691 click: https://www.tamparacing.com/forums/t...-racing.html CHRA sanctioned cruise-in.
Cruise-In; Free; Every Saturday 5-8PM plus 10% off the whole menu to cruisers

All Cars Every 2nd Saturday Free Breakfast: Since 2015 and more. click: https://www.tamparacing.com/forums/e...ast-tampa.html


Tampa Racing.com covers the Tampa car scene and supports many fund raisers, worthy causes and events that enrich our community. We hope you enjoy them all.
What do I do? ---- on-site *Aftermarket* spring/suspension installations --- on-site impact wrenching---street lowering with your own stock springs...........True Bi-xenon HID projector headlight conversions........ Much more at Bob's Garage!
https://www.tamparacing.com/forums/b...ontact-us.html
https://www.tamparacing.com/forums/b...e-senor-honda/














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