Dynoed the Spirit R/T
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Originally posted by "mpbiv"
All this turbo talk is driving me mad, anyone wanna donate parts to the MoRice Turbo K project? Tax deductible I bet
I'll put your stickers on the car
All this turbo talk is driving me mad, anyone wanna donate parts to the MoRice Turbo K project? Tax deductible I bet
I'll put your stickers on the car
a.k.a. NeonDan
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 1,019
Likes: 0
Re: Dynoed the Spirit R/T
Originally posted by "4sfed 4"
After putting my new R/T back together (re-ringed the pistons, new rod bearings, valve job, etc, etc), and with about 350 miles on the engine, I decided to take it over to John's and see what she'd lay down. I was pretty curious as to whether or not everything went back together 100% and that I was making the proper amount of power. The car felt good, but the butt dyno sometimes lies.
The car was all stock except for a 3" turbo back exhaust (no cat and Race Magnum muffler), a grainger valve for boost control, an adjustable fuel pressure regulator, boost and EGT gauges, some light cleaning up of the ports and exhaust manifold, and a Pep Boys cone intake filter. In my usual fashion of keeping expenses low, I tried to do everything as reasonably as possible. Ive got $1500 in the car, plus about $400 in rebuild parts for a grand total of about $1900.
Yes, I am a typical Turbo Dodge cheapskate. But, the car is ultra clean and looks damn good for a grandma-mobile.
I wanted to keep the boost low to start just to make sure things were OK.
The first run was at 10 psi boost. (Stock boost is 11 psi.)
I added about 2 psi boost and ran it again at 12 psi.
Eventually, I got greedy (as usual) and tried to dial in more boost. Well, the vent orifice on the grainger valve was too big (and I didnt have any smaller ones with me), so I couldnt dial in the boost I wanted...all I could get was a wacko boost spike (18-19 psi)and a quick drop right back to 12-13 psi boost
The spike started to show up in the lower boost runs, but it was much smaller, on the order of 2 psi, i.e. on the 10 psi run, the spike was to about 12 psi.) You can see the boost spike and boost drop pretty clearly in the plot below.
Ah well....all and all I was pleased. Im pretty sure I can crack 300 whp on the stock turbo and IC with a bit more tuning.
After putting my new R/T back together (re-ringed the pistons, new rod bearings, valve job, etc, etc), and with about 350 miles on the engine, I decided to take it over to John's and see what she'd lay down. I was pretty curious as to whether or not everything went back together 100% and that I was making the proper amount of power. The car felt good, but the butt dyno sometimes lies.
The car was all stock except for a 3" turbo back exhaust (no cat and Race Magnum muffler), a grainger valve for boost control, an adjustable fuel pressure regulator, boost and EGT gauges, some light cleaning up of the ports and exhaust manifold, and a Pep Boys cone intake filter. In my usual fashion of keeping expenses low, I tried to do everything as reasonably as possible. Ive got $1500 in the car, plus about $400 in rebuild parts for a grand total of about $1900.
Yes, I am a typical Turbo Dodge cheapskate. But, the car is ultra clean and looks damn good for a grandma-mobile.
I wanted to keep the boost low to start just to make sure things were OK.
The first run was at 10 psi boost. (Stock boost is 11 psi.)
I added about 2 psi boost and ran it again at 12 psi.
Eventually, I got greedy (as usual) and tried to dial in more boost. Well, the vent orifice on the grainger valve was too big (and I didnt have any smaller ones with me), so I couldnt dial in the boost I wanted...all I could get was a wacko boost spike (18-19 psi)and a quick drop right back to 12-13 psi boost
The spike started to show up in the lower boost runs, but it was much smaller, on the order of 2 psi, i.e. on the 10 psi run, the spike was to about 12 psi.) You can see the boost spike and boost drop pretty clearly in the plot below.Ah well....all and all I was pleased. Im pretty sure I can crack 300 whp on the stock turbo and IC with a bit more tuning.
Thread Starter
4SFED4
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 201
Likes: 0
Re: Dynoed the Spirit R/T
[quote]Originally posted by "ACR2NV"
Nothing to come clean about! No fuzzy math!
The car only has the things done to it that I posted above. The key is ditching the horrible factory exhaust.
To give you an example, a bog stock R/T on the same dyno made 186 whp / 200 ft lb. Stock boost is 11 psi. The factory exhaust necks down to 1 7/8" in the rear! You can imagine how that chokes the engine.
So by basically ditching the factory exhaust and cleaning up the exhaust manifold and head, you can pick up over 40 whp while still running a tad less boost. To be honest, Ill bet 90% of the gain was from the exhaust alone with the balance from the light cleanup of the head and exhaust manifold. (I was too lazy to even touch the intake manifold.)
My car had the 3" exhaust with no cat and a very free flowing muffler (Race Magnum.....aka LOUD!), a cone intake instead of the factory airbox, some very light clean up of the exhaust manifold and the head ( I spent about 2 hours with my dremel doing both pieces), an adjustable fuel pressure regulator, a fresh valve job, and thats it.
Im hoping to go back to the dyno shortly while still on the stock turbo and IC and make some higher boost runs with the +40's and see what I can eek out.
Originally Posted by 4sfed 4
i dunno Larry but i just cant grasp how a stock RT can run those numbers at such low boost i mean are you saying you were only running "10psi" with a spike to 12...i mean the numbers are impressive but the fuzzy math isnt.....what is it come clean...how much boost you running?
The car only has the things done to it that I posted above. The key is ditching the horrible factory exhaust.
To give you an example, a bog stock R/T on the same dyno made 186 whp / 200 ft lb. Stock boost is 11 psi. The factory exhaust necks down to 1 7/8" in the rear! You can imagine how that chokes the engine.
So by basically ditching the factory exhaust and cleaning up the exhaust manifold and head, you can pick up over 40 whp while still running a tad less boost. To be honest, Ill bet 90% of the gain was from the exhaust alone with the balance from the light cleanup of the head and exhaust manifold. (I was too lazy to even touch the intake manifold.)
My car had the 3" exhaust with no cat and a very free flowing muffler (Race Magnum.....aka LOUD!), a cone intake instead of the factory airbox, some very light clean up of the exhaust manifold and the head ( I spent about 2 hours with my dremel doing both pieces), an adjustable fuel pressure regulator, a fresh valve job, and thats it.
Im hoping to go back to the dyno shortly while still on the stock turbo and IC and make some higher boost runs with the +40's and see what I can eek out.
__________________
Larry
2002 MB C320 Sport Wagon 15.4@91
2002 Dodge Neon SE
1991 Dodge Spirit R/T-12.3@117 (at 368 whp) Now 500 whp / 514 ft lb on pump gas
Larry
2002 MB C320 Sport Wagon 15.4@91
2002 Dodge Neon SE
1991 Dodge Spirit R/T-12.3@117 (at 368 whp) Now 500 whp / 514 ft lb on pump gas
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right. larry hasnt fooled anyone. there's no doubt in my mind he made those numbers on that boost. The lotus head is superior to the 8v head in flow. Look at the hondas, they only run 10psi where we have to do 20+ in the 8v's. I also couldnt agree more on how crappy the factory exhaust is. On my 86 non intercooled early T1 Daytona, just gutting the cat alone gave me an extra psi or 2 of boost. and that was still keeping the tiny tailpipe. Turbocars show HUGE gains on the exhaust side
