See and that whoosh when you let off the gas was what I had before I adjusted the WGA, but was only getting 1lb - 2lbs of boost, so I adjusted the WGA and now I am getting the boost but I am getting the whoosh while pressing the gas and the fluttering when the gas is let go. So is this a bad thing for the car? and what do I do to fix it. I don't know about any other electric boost controllers but this one dosen't require a dual port wg. The tubing and wiring is ran, I just need the computer component and the controller box put in the mix.

 

yes, this fluttering is bad, the pressure builds up when the throttle plate closes and goes back the way it came....to the turbo...slowing or even reversing the spin of the fins, causing premature turbo wear....as for what you need to fix it...couldnt say for sure, since I never actually used the SRT turbo setup and its BOV setup right on the turbo, just to make sure, you do have a vacuum line run to the BOV/Bypass valve/Surge valve correct? should be the red line I believe on an SRT

also, another note of interest from Mopar...

OVERBOOST - 103.4 kPa (10 psi) or more even at part throttle (could be as high as 137.8 kPa (20 psi) or more). A "Fluttering" noise can be heard during overboost. CAUTION: Engine damage can result from prolonged Overboost. </B>Waste Gate control hose plumbing compromised/disconnected


how do you know how much you are boosting? I wouldnt trust the stock boost gauge, its junk, and consistently breaks giving false boost readings, which is why you probably thought you were boosting 20-25psi...in reality you were probably only boosting 16-17, and since the fluttering is a symptom of overboost and your gauge says you are only at 14, to me your gauge looks faulty, buy an autometer

 

so I adjusted the wga a little more and am peeking 10 psi according to the stock guage it still has the whooshhhhhhh as I hit the gas continously until I let go of the gas but the fluddering has stopped. Is there a specific Autometer that you would suggest?

 

whichever one you like, I have a pro comp myself, always reads accurate boost(I can tell because I also know what kpa my MAP sensor is reading and its always dead on) anyway, a pro comp or a sport comp should cost you like $30

 

Just a thought... Check the pink line that connects to the stock diverter valve. Whoever told you that you dont have a leak because your boost guage read in vaccum is wrong. My car, until very recently (thanks D and Luke) had huge boost leaks, and still read in vaccum and in boost.

I do know that if you did not zip tie your pink line to the stock DV, then it probably blew off. I blew mine off at 17 lbs, so at 20+ I can almost certainly say that this one blew off.

Another thing, as was said before, the stock turbo runs out of efficiency at about 19-20 lbs. It also will start to run too lean, becaue there's not enough fuel... espicially at 20lbs at redline. This is VERY bad for you car. The map sensor will pull timing, but you might as well kiss your turbo goodbye. YOu dont want to be pushing (on Stage 0, which I can only assume you are) anymore than about 17-18 psi in 3rd and 4th gear, or you'll get spark cut, which is no fun.

One thing I am wondering is if you have a CEL yet. If you were pushing that much boost, then you most certainly have a P023 code or whatever the hell the other overboost code is. If you do not, then you might want to check your boost guage. It's a common problem with the SRT's, actually. Your boost guage should read 0 when the car is off. If it does not, then the guage is bad. Check these things first, and if you have any problems, I'd be more than happy to help you out with whatever I can if you're ever on my side of town. Good luck.

 

Thanks for the help everything you said make complete sense. I was getting the spark cut and that is why I took the MBC off. I did have the overboost codes but had that reset when I took the MBC off also. So I am going to take a look at the pink line to the DV tomorrow when I can see. I will let you know what I find and I appreciate all the help.

By the way all the tubing is ran for the EBC. It is a Greddy B-Spec II First Question: Do I even need this right now? and if I do I just need to have the little black box with the two connections for the hoses and the actual electronic box put in. You wouldn't know how that would hook up would you? I can hook up the actual electronic box, but the little black box I am not sure what hoses go on which connection

 

So I checked the pink line and it is going to my BOV but is not disconnected, my turbo and WGA are hooked directly together and the red one is going to the intercooler.

Another question I have a Greddy B-Spec II EBC and wanted to know if I should or need to hook this up? and if I should then what I need to know on the boost controller box that goes under the hood has two connections, one as NO on it and the other has COM, there is two connectors hooked on these for tubing, then there is one that there is threads but no connector that reads NC but doesn't seem like any airflow goes through there. I need to know which I hook up to this box, I know one is for the tube that comes from the actual electronic control box but don't know which one and I also don't know what I connect to the other one. So this is where I stand now.

I am not usually on that side of town, but if we could get together sometime that would be great, I would definitly make the trip over there, any help is great and I apprectiate all the help you have been already.

Last thing, How hard is it to replace the clutch in this car? I think I burned my second gear last night racing. It grinds at anything over 4K RPM and I have to force it in, but that is only from first to second. Plus is there a clutch that you recommend this is the one I was looking at getting......http://froogle.google.com/froogle_ur...AAAAAAAA&hl=en

As for everything you said, it makes complete sense. I was getting that spark cut and therefore that is why I removed the MBC. Now I did get the CEL but then when I took the manual controller off I had them reset and it didn't come back on till last night, I readjusted the WGA so that I was pushing 15 psi instead of 10 psi. After half the night it popped on.