One person's track day setup....
With your charger being on 17's, depending on the year (I just talked with Todd from TCE Performance today about this) some came with the 14mm lug studs. theres were a few years where 12mm were the lug studs. but as far as I know the bolt patter was always a 115. so a 5x115

is what the charger has always been. but the differences between the SRT and R/T was sometimes a 12mm for R/T and v6, where the SRT had the 14mm.now I believe all of em use the 14mm in a 5x115.on the clearance issue, most braking companies, wilwood, brembo, AP,

Stoptech, they usually use a template of the diameter of the brake system with caliper to make sure the wheel will fit over the calipers.This is an example of the brakes I used on my Camaro: https://www.wilwood.com/Images/Brake...187_wcd-lg.jpgnow with your brakes probably being stock. you'd probably more than likely have to make a template like this... its not hard, but just

time consuming. most would use cardboard and trace the wheel hub out and make a cutout you would then mount to your hub like you would a tire. then on the outer side of the cardboard, mark to where your caliper extends out to. its usually recommended to have about 3-5mm

clearance between the caliper and the wheel. the more the better, just in case pebbles or small debris finds its way in between the caliper (perfect storm scenario).now the next issue to look into... the 17's, that I remember, are usually 215-65-17 right? I know the 18's went from

225-60-18 to like 235-55-18 on some models, but for the 17's having a 65 series sidewall, is a good amount. its soft and pliable, but for handling and keeping things within plus sizing... when you go down in wheel size, you go up in sidewall size... not always good for precision

and handling.if you are trying to go to a smaller wheel, AND smaller tire...then you have two things that may factor in on your choice to do so... smaller wheel and tire will increase the fender gap between the tire and fender/quarter panel. most are crazy adamant about any fender

gap, much less increasing it.also the gear ratio, especially if done in the rear, will change significantly.An example, I went from a 245-50-18 to a 255-45-18, and in the 1/4 mile, my trap speeds dropped from 106-107mph, to 103-104mph. however, I was able to switch into 5th gear a

second or two before I crossed the line as opposed to right when I crossed the line, and my ET's improved from consistent 13.6-13.8's to 13.4/13.5's but that was a small 2.2% difference. the cars computer doesn't even trip the speed sensors until after 3-3.5% (usually an abs

light will pop up)so for measuring clearance, question 1... this should help and diagrams to explain most of it. https://static.summitracing.com/glob...-580547500.pdf2nd question, with cross reference, I don't know of any charts, but usually when I do look up

stuff, I just pick a vehicle I wanna get wheels from and see what their bolt circles are and offsets offered. its kinda what im doing now to see which OEM wheels will fit the 4 and 6 piston brembos… if I choose to swap and go that route.on the camaro, I ended up using PS-7 wheels

from Apex Racing. they are a BMW wheel manufacturer, and they run the GT and GTS series in continental I believe. Bill Aurberlen ran em. the only difference was that the hubs for BMW are 72.56 where as the camaro is 69.1 so I had to use a hubcentric spacer per wheel. it just

makes sure the wheel stays centered.and 3) what would be you goal in this? as in is it a performance thing? or a comfort thing? cause as always there may be easier options depending on what the goal is.---Quote (Originally by senor dodge)---My car came stock with 17" X 7"

wheels.I would like to keep tire width the same as current.A way of lowering a car without altering the suspension is to puton smaller diameter wheels and also lower profile tires.I know I have to consider the disc diameter and can only go so far without interfering with the disc.-------------------